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Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Threads
33
Messages
234
Location
arnold, CA
today I was a glorious day since I finally got to hear my 4bt run. I ended up having to jump my battery from my brothers running ford diesel to get the motor to turn over fast enough. I was having some clutch problems(not disengaging enough) but was able to fix those. The first start up wasn't too rough but it did fill the entire garage with thick white smoke(all the s*** in it from sitting as long as it did) but it quickly went away. I shut it off after about 30 seconds and then went and got injector cleaner and started it again when I got home. Then it wouldn't start. It was quite odd. We found a leak in a fuel line and fixed it. Then there was a ton of air in the system so we finally cracked the injector lines and it started again. We just got in from our first test drive and this thing rattles. I think its mostly from my home made crossmember(very little bushings. Im going to have to run two batterys and get a real (man-a-fre stlye) cross-member. The motor gets on it pretty good. I got 11 lbs. hardly trying. Hopefully it will last me a long time. :D :D :D :D
 
Sounds cool! :cheers: For your info ALL the deisel 'Cruisers run dual batteries stock from the factory (in Canada at least) whether they are 12v or 24v.
 
Killer!

OEM actually uses one big honkin' battery but it's big! I am using two batteries too, it wouldn't start either without it... I decided I have to redo my mounts and cross member before I start it up. It's just too damn low... Also, you want your motor mounts to be stiffer than your tranny mount otherwise it will break.. For mine, I used real soft rubber mini truck mounts but drilled holes through them and put grade 8 bolts with rubber bushings through them to control how much it rattles along and to prevent the MT mounts from breaking... Not sure how well it will work but I think it will do OK...

Here's the mount before I put it in and padded the bolts with rubber pads...
motormount2.jpg
 
I went and got a battery from kragen. Its a 1000 CA and like 875 CCA and seems to do just fine. Hey Dieselcruiserhead is you runnin ye?t and I don't think 3/8" is going to break. I think your MMs are going to break before mine. Its fun cruisin around town rattlin. last night I was actually able to pull a hill at 55mph(15.5 lbs. oh yeah!!). Its also great havin 8 gears to run through
 
Not yet I wish.. I could get it running and driving in probably 30 minutes all it basically needs is oil. My NV4500 and NP241 is so long but my rig is so tall that I put it in low to get around having to hack the dog house. Now that all the weight is on the front springs it sits too low (3" maybe b/w front axle and bottom of engine) and I'm starting to think the rig is too tall, so I'm going to pull it all out ( :( ) and redo the mounts and crossmember with the body hacked (but will do a clean job) and will also lower the rig some more at least another couple inches. So all that work for nothing so far but I think it should go OK and I am pysched to get it right.

Thanks though and great to hear it's working. I'm hoping to be able to pull some big hills too at good speed... Remember to gusset those motor mounts though. I did but I'm going to make sure I do it 100% right this time and gusset the living crap out of those mounts...

andre
 
Well I've probably driven it about 200 miles now :D :D. and now real problems. The only thing is I can't figure out if my battery is charging when i'm driving. I hooked up a starter button and silinoid switch so I don't need the key. The amp meter in the dash shows a super charge with the key off and a then the needle goes back to the middle when its on. I'm confused. It doesn't seem like its chargeing cuase the battery will hardly turn the motor over somtimes ??? ??? ???. Other than that its doing fine. Its nice driving that far and only using like 1/2 a tank of fuel :D :D.

if anyone has any insite into my problem please help. I'm already tired of having to park on hills(pop the clutch).

Thanks
 
Thinking out loud -
Reversed ammeter? Showing "charge" when in fact it should be showing draw.
Sounds like there is a circuit remaining on when truck is off, drawing current, and then when the truck is running it equalizes the draw. Start the truck and check voltage at the battery. Check current when off.
 
Ill agree with the reversed ammeter the current draw will be the glow plugs kicking in and drawing current , i'd check ya wiring to the alternator and to the battry by checking voltages at both with the engine running there should be only a few 1/10's of a volt drop between the two , also an idea to check the charge wire is connected properly , either way a few mins with a volt meter and the engine running will soon tell you whats happening , i'm gathering your ammeter is on the main supply to the car , could be an idea to pull it out and put it inline with the alternator to see what sort of charge it is putting out ,

Your Alternator voltage should be around 13.2 volts and battry voltage while running should climb to around 13 with no accessorys , another idea would be to check the alternator under load , try watching the ampmeter and alternator voltage when you put your headlights on and check it's holding the voltage at about 12.5 -6 volts if it falls away and the alternator doesnt pick up charge you could be looking at a problem with the regulator , or if is externaly regulated check the grounds

Other than that on a diesel i'd check ya solanoid for ya glow plugs it cutting off , and make sure that is nothing left on .
 
well all I do now is run it with the key off and the reason it isn't chargeing is because theres a short somewhere and I just need to find it. BTW cummins don't have glow plugs. they're such a superior motor that they don't need them and after talking to some dogde owners they say that theyve never used their block heaters. the motor does have an ignition heater but it isn't hooked up right now.
 
Motors are electrical....

It is an internal combustion engine...

Yes, my '96 Cummins/Dodge Dually has started without the oil and coolant heaters to -25F, had the option been there to plug it in, it would have been used.
Living in an area where it gets cold, not using an oil heater and or block heater is foolish.

'ignition heater'?.?.?.? How about an air inlet heater...

Further,

There are many fine diesel engines out there, Peugeot, Mercedes, Caterpillar, that have glow plugs, it is really not that big of a deal. The fact that the engine is direct injected opposed to indirect and the better atomizing of the fuel creates an easier starting engine.

Hopefully you get your electrical issues fixed soon, I know how much joy those can be..

POST MORE PICS, or how about SOME!!

Good luck!

-Steve
 
I second that...! More pics please!

Yes no glow plugs on it b/c it is direct injected. Instead it uses a sensor which determines air temp and retards the timing for easier starting. I fully plan on using mine, and the block heater of course too....

Andre
 
Heres some pics

This thing hauls. it fun burnin chevy than pulling over to let them pass just to toy with them. I've probaly gone 500+ miles and everythings doing great.
 
Without a radiator.... ;)
 
those are from before it was running. when it was going in.
i'll try to get some more pics of the finished product by the end of this week.

The funny thing is it seems like you could run it with no radiator it runs so cool.
Going 30 miles close to all uphill and no fan you can get out pop to the hood and rest your hand on the cap. stock landcruiser radiator too.
 
Awesome just what I want to hear... I got mine in all buttoned up, I have two Optimas that have been sitting for the last year that I charged up but one of them just isn't up to the task :( I am literally ready to go, brakes bled and everything but I have to wait a week to get some spare change to get some new batteries :(

Also if possible snap some photos of your turbo / exhaust output. I had to hack up my firewall and fab up a little cover for it to keep the elements out. It actually turned out OK. I also had to extend my transmission cover but it turned out really well and I am more than a happy camper right now.. But all I want to do is fire it up and drive it, bummer because I am only $200 away! I will post photos too when I get a chance...
 
i run one yellow top optima and it starts mine fine, down to 26 degrees so far. when i originally hooke dit up i had a crappy ground and used 36!!!!!!!!!!!! , 3 12 volt batteries to start it. it turned over faster than idle. i blew up two batteries and melted a jumper cable, before i figured out my ignorance. 1 hour at idle to hit 205 degrees, 45 seconds with a taurus fan on high and i can shut my thermostat (170 degrees!) .

what gear/tires are you running?
im 4.56 geared , 39 inch tires and locked front and rear..... i, in theory should get a 84mph max out of it... i only need 70
 
Right now I've got 4.11 and my studed winter 30's. I'm runnin the stock 4-speed and the ranger torque splitter (.73:1when engaged). I can cruise at 55 and might be able to hit 70(no speedo :-\). I know i've gone 65 becuase I next to my bother in his truck and we were on the CB's. It's a beautiful thing though becuse you never have to down shift. I need to get some gauges then i'll tweak the pump some more and hopefully be able to 30psi. :D :D :D
 
i mounted my engine in straight.... with a nv4500. what is stock boost?
i like mine alot...
i like the power and torque curve. until i get some miles on it.....
are you happy with your gear ratio?? or would you like higher or lower?
www.homepage.mac.com/ltalessi

Image-D3C3AB06298811D8.jpg
 
The boost I got when it was stock was about 15.5psi. then it tends to just set there and then drop back down. I think my ratio is just right for now. With 33s or 35s it should be even better since I doubt it will slow down with that much torque.
Thats a clean job there. Did you have to mount your tranny tilted?
 

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