Issues with starting my hj75 (1 Viewer)

[bren10]

Hi all I am shaving a little treble with my hj75 Ute
I recently purchased a 88 hj75 Ute with a 2h that has been had a turbo fitted

this motor was tired and low on comp (may have something to do with the previous owner smoking multiple sets of 37 simex centipedes)

The old motor would start but would take some cranking and multiple glows to do so

I’ve since swapped out that motor to a low km non turbo motor witch I’ve then fitted the turbo set up back to

I’ve also had glow plug issues with I’ve bypassed them super glow and now manually glow

now I can get it to start with start ya bastard
And once it fires will run and start all day

but not fire first thing in the morning
If I dare continue to crank I’ll then have to tow start and again will run all day without having to glow again

I believe I have bleed all the air out of the system and the fact that I’ve been driving it this way on and off fir the past month

I believe the edic motor is working correctly but I’m no guro

Any help or advice to nut out this issue would be appreciate

 

[roscoFJ73]

Is the EDIC going to its correct position?
It sounds like you have a fuel delivery issue, probably from an air leak.

 

[JoseR]

Are you sure the priming pump works well? Pressurizes before first start.
Maybe the state of the starter and ground on engine.

Injectors check or fuel additive.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I’ve also had glow plug issues with I’ve bypassed them super glow and now manually glow

now I can get it to start with start ya bastard
And once it fires will run and start all day

Do you know for sure the plugs are glowing.

 

[bren10]

I know the plugs are glowing checked with a meter and visually I’ve changed the fuel lines and clamps

I’ve also so changed the prime pump

both to no avail

ive visually checked the edic motor witch doesn’t appear to go to the over injection position on ignition but will on crank

I’ve changed the ground and power cabling when I rewired the Ute some months ago

all help is greatly appreciated please keep the Suggestions coming hopefully we can resolve this issue if mine

 

[JoseR]

Can you take a video?
You have fuel, "pre-heat", good compression, cables...
Advance little bit the injection pump.
I attended a car that running tight, with a slight advance It improved a lot. And 15° on bolt to open fuel.

 

[Squash]

Disconnect the Edic arm to IP. This will put the pump in the Run position.
Other than that you need to be certain there are no vaccum leaks in your fuel lines. If she's getting fuel you should at least smell, taste, or see diesel in one form or another.
No diesel at the tailpipe means no diesel into the engine.
If she's a manual put her in gear and tow her for a bit.

 

[ozcrusier]

What color smoke she blowing once started.

 

[bren10]

What color smoke she blowing once started.

White and whilst cranking with it not firing also white I’ve since has a Dyno tube done witch improves its performance and consumption
But did not improve the starting

I had alway had in the back of my mind it was and over fueling issue but it would seem that is not the case

I have also got my hands on a few other fuel control relays witch I also may of thought may be the issue also not the case

if I have a vac/air problem in the fuel line/injectors how would one diagnoses and issue there?

 

[roscoFJ73]

if I have a vac/air problem in the fuel line/injectors how would one diagnoses and issue there?

Generally , if you pump the primer, it should get enough fuel to start. You can also loosen one injector line at a time. If there is air in there it bubbles out as the engine cranks.
White smoke is combustion that is too cool. The white is from condensation. It could be low compression, a weak injection pump, injectors opening too early or timing is out.
You can also temporarily replace some fuel line with a piece of clear hose and watch for bubbles, this tells you if air is getting in. If you left it overnight and it was empty of fuel in the morning, you would know air is getting in.

 

[bren10]

It is quite odd i can start it on aero start one or two short squirts and will fire up

with out any aerosol start it will just continue to crank over with white smoke coming out the exhaust without firing up

now here is and example that has happened I stated the Ute at 7am drove to work about a half hour drive then parked it up for the day not starting again until 6 pm with a short glow it fired up and I there it idle until worm and drive the half hour back home again

had tea went out for a night 4x4 mission getting home at 1am the following morning

I then got up at 7am to start the car to got to work and cranked the motor for about 30 seconds to a minute not sign of it going to start again applyed a bit of aerosol starter and she fired up


I’m not sure of what to do next so far things I’ve tried/Replaced

fuel lines
Water separator
Clamps
Primmer
Has been dyno tuned
Tried swapping out fuel control relay to know working relays
bleed the lines to the injectors

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Get a boiling hot kettle of water and pour it slowly over the intake manifold, wait 30 seconds and see if she starts any better. If it helps, you've got glow plug problems. The neighbours may look at you strangely, but it helped me with a 2H that didn't want to run its superglow properly.

Do you know what voltage glow plugs are in it?

 

[roscoFJ73]

I’m not sure of what to do next so far things I’ve tried/Replaced

I would compression test it to eliminate bad compression. Engines stay warm all day and allow you to drive home, but every morning is a dead cold start and low compression rears its head.

 

[bren10]

Here is a typical morning start routine the The pause is where I stopped to get the aerosol starter and then is fired up

 

[Squash]

Obviously if she starts with a can of ether you should probably check fuelling issues.
Seems like she leaks down overnight.

 

[roscoFJ73]

That puffing in the exhaust around 1.32 is some of the cylinders firing better than the others..

 

[bren10]

So I’ve now been driving this 75 as a daily for a while now while nothing really has gone wrong with it I’m still having this starting cold issue

still having to start it on aerosol starter

i had been told even with poor glowing plugs being turboed they should start easily

things I have checked

comp = even across all boars

Glow plugs = voltage checked at plugs 12.7v
and plugs replaced

edic motor = changed for a know working one off a running 2H

fuel cut control relay = changed for a know working one off a running 2H

Fuel primer = changed for a new steel primer

bleed the lines to the injectors

Tried the hot water caper not different in start up


dose anyone have any other suggestions or theories on this issue

meany thanks in advance

 

[AussieHJCruza]

The turbo will make no difference to how it starts.

What voltage glow plugs did you use?

 

[roscoFJ73]

comp = even across all boars

What were the figures?
Its seems to be idling very low. I always cold idle diesels at about 1000rpm to warm them up a bit quicker.

 

[coldtaco]

There are two kinds of glow plugs/system used on the 2H. Superglow (or something like that) that starts at 11or 12V for a short time then goes down to like 6V or something for the rest, I believe this system uses a lower volt glow plugs. The “old school “ is the early kind. I would guess it uses the 11v or 12v glow plugs. I would say that the glow plugs are burned out again would need to check again. If you go the “Wilson switch” route I would buy a spare glow plug to sacrifice, hook up the spare and time how long a glow it takes to burn it up. Then use a shorter time glowing manually. When I drove my new to my 85 HJ75 home the glow plugs were toast and the first real cold morning it took a long time cranking to get it started and then it smoked really bad for maybe 15 min before clearing up. Was able to install new ones the next day and the following morning it was cold again and it started right up.