Long crank when warm - Issue after valley pan repair (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jmanscotch
- Start date
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There are some 3rd party replacements on eBay if you don't want the chrome
EDIT: Although I think these are more or less covers than replacements.
EDIT: Although I think these are more or less covers than replacements.
Door handle (exterior) - problems, questions, concerns - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
GX - 2nd Gen (2010-present) - Door handle (exterior) - problems, questions, concerns - Why wouldn't the touch sensitive lock/unlock on the driver and passenger doors not work? I verified that all doors are latched and windows are closed but when I touch the handle to lock the GX I get a long...
www.clublexus.com
- Thread starter
- #23
I already ordered a factory one, only $100 for the rear door, but the covers are a good idea, probably way better than my amateur vinyl job.
- Thread starter
- #24
Update: new fuel pressure regulator wasn’t the ticket.
Systems are:
- Cold engine starts work fine
- Hot engine starts work fine for first ~45 minutes after it’s been shut down
- Hot starts from 45 minutes on exhibit long cranks
- Allowed to cool down completely again, starts fine
Fuel pressure issues would explain most the problem, but how do I regain adequate fuel pressure overnight for morning cold starts, the quick fuel pump priming?
Fuel injector leaking internally fits. Fuel leaks into the cylinder and floods it over an hour or so, but over 8 hours it evaporates out intake/exhaust valves or leaks into the block and is able to cold start fine. No signs of fuel in the crankcase/oil.
Options as I see it right now:
- get the right setup to test flow on the fuel injectors to see if they’re leaking
- continue my frustrated “throw parts at it” party and replace all the injectors
To be candid, I know throwing parts at a problem and not properly troubleshooting it is exactly the wrong thing to do, but my level of f#%ks for this thing right now is thin, so I’ll probably go that route.
After all my initial troubleshooting and diagnosis, I highly suspected a fuel issue and the regulator and injectors were by far the highest on that list. I went for the regulator as it was a 50/50 shot and I didn’t want to pull injectors, but now I already have once and while I observed no external or obvious issues, it is the other most likely cause.
Plus, for ~$250 I’ll have put rebuild factory injectors on a 110K mile rig, replaced a regulator and hopefully fixed an issue that would’ve cost me $250 and a lot of hassle to even begin to get diagnosed professionally.
Yeah, DIY math.
Systems are:
- Cold engine starts work fine
- Hot engine starts work fine for first ~45 minutes after it’s been shut down
- Hot starts from 45 minutes on exhibit long cranks
- Allowed to cool down completely again, starts fine
Fuel pressure issues would explain most the problem, but how do I regain adequate fuel pressure overnight for morning cold starts, the quick fuel pump priming?
Fuel injector leaking internally fits. Fuel leaks into the cylinder and floods it over an hour or so, but over 8 hours it evaporates out intake/exhaust valves or leaks into the block and is able to cold start fine. No signs of fuel in the crankcase/oil.
Options as I see it right now:
- get the right setup to test flow on the fuel injectors to see if they’re leaking
- continue my frustrated “throw parts at it” party and replace all the injectors
To be candid, I know throwing parts at a problem and not properly troubleshooting it is exactly the wrong thing to do, but my level of f#%ks for this thing right now is thin, so I’ll probably go that route.
After all my initial troubleshooting and diagnosis, I highly suspected a fuel issue and the regulator and injectors were by far the highest on that list. I went for the regulator as it was a 50/50 shot and I didn’t want to pull injectors, but now I already have once and while I observed no external or obvious issues, it is the other most likely cause.
Plus, for ~$250 I’ll have put rebuild factory injectors on a 110K mile rig, replaced a regulator and hopefully fixed an issue that would’ve cost me $250 and a lot of hassle to even begin to get diagnosed professionally.
Yeah, DIY math.
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- Thread starter
- #25
Same exact symptoms here, make sense to me too, one owner confirmed fuel injectors leaking.
www.tundrasolutions.com
extended cranking/hard start when warm or after sitting...
So looking online, it seems like it’s probably more expensive to build a rig, which supplies proper pressure to the injectors, plus finding a fluid that closely resembles fuel, etc than just replacing the injectors. I wonder if the dealership is actually able to test these guys?
seems like you can get all 8 injectors for about 80 bucks. If you do decide to swap them let us know how much of a difference it makes , if any in terms of engine smoothness.
- Thread starter
- #27
Yeah, there’s ways to mimic it enough for troubleshooting that’s basic and cheap, but to do it properly would be a chore (send them off) or pricey enough to DIY the accurate and right way.
I’ve taken on a new roll at work, been busy as hell and just value my time over money...this month at least, which is not typical for me. I ordered those rebuild injectors (thanks for the link BTW) and will update with what I find out.
I’m confident in my decision and I’m fine with reporting if my somewhat brash decision works out or not.
I’ve taken on a new roll at work, been busy as hell and just value my time over money...this month at least, which is not typical for me. I ordered those rebuild injectors (thanks for the link BTW) and will update with what I find out.
I’m confident in my decision and I’m fine with reporting if my somewhat brash decision works out or not.
r2m
Richard
With all due respect, do you think you may want to cut your losses, sell it and get another, newer/lower mileage GX??
Just get this thing to a point where you can sell/trade it in.
Not my truck , but if I was in the same situation I would try to solve the issue especially after already spending so much time on it. I think the assumption of the regulator / fuel injectors make sense just on the fact that it was on the general vicinity of where the valley plate work was done. Additionally the fact that the car fails crank after being warm really point towards injectors leaking and flooding the combustion chamber after being ran. Don’t give up !!
- Thread starter
- #30
I’m a long way away from contemplating replacing it. If injectors don’t fix it, I’ll just take it to a shop and let them figure it out.
It probably doesn’t seem like it, but I do enjoy wrenching on vehicles, it’s one of my main hobbies. These series of issues lately has just tested my patience with the timing of them along with other life stresses going on.
Plus, when it comes time to get out of the GX, I’ll probably go towards a Tundra. Miss having the ease of a truck.
I'm inclined to think it is a leaking injector.
I haven't looked... do we have an easy area to tap for fuel pressure? It doesn't appear so... probably need to use an adapter on the fuel line.
I haven't looked... do we have an easy area to tap for fuel pressure? It doesn't appear so... probably need to use an adapter on the fuel line.
Fuel Pressure Leak-Down Test
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r2m
Richard
Good on ya for sticking it out! There was a time when I enjoyed trouble shooting problems, fix them or develop a better solution. Those were the days before computers, unleaded gas and there was actually room around the engine bay to stick your hand to access a bolt or nut. But at my age now, I only enjoy adding mods and leave the regular maintenance and trouble shooting to the pros.
IMO: Unfortunately... finding a trusted pro for maintenance and troubleshooting is hard to find. If you have one...very lucky... and hope they are young and not near retirement.
- Thread starter
- #34
This. I started wrenching on my own junk because I was young and broke. I’m no longer either of those, but having the knowledge I have (which is nothing impressive, but also not naive) I’ve been less than impressed by 100% of the work I’ve paid to have done on vehicles.
That’s a large part of why I still do my own work. $100-150 an hour for incompetent work is just something I can’t be ok with.
A buddy recommended his shop to me, suppose to be a big Toyota guy and a mom and pop type place, so I felt their shop out are here’s how it went:
- Stopped by two different occasions after work and the shop was locked up, no one there, during business hours.
- Finally got a call back a week later and the owner told me they don’t work on Lexus vehicles (but primarily do Toyota and Subaru) so clearly not an intelligent man
- After convincing him he could put blinders on and pretend it’s a Tundra with the 1UR-FE in it, we tried scheduling a time for him to look at and he went on about how he’d need it for two weeks, he couldn’t guarantee any results because it’s not a Toyota (?!) and “don’t be surprised if the bill gets into the thousands”.
I politely told him I’d have to reconsider. This was a friends personal recommendation on the shop he felt was competent and fair.
I also stopped by a 100% Toyota only Independent shop in town, with great reviews, to get a quote on my valley pan repair and was quoted $2,400. The owner there said the reason was because they refused to do the job without replacing all the knock sensors, for no logical reason.
As Acrad said, if I could find a fast and competent shop I’d be a happy man, I just haven’t found it and that leaves me to be the incompetent fool working on it, at least I’m cheap though.
Bare with my rant as I try to keep at a minimum: Years ago I have paid for services not rendered... not again... (Present day: Wife and co-workers ask all the time why I bother with own maintenance...it isn't the $$$ by any means) ... many are throwing dollars into the wind to feel "comfortable" maintenance is being taken care of. Am I saying all mechanics are crooks?.. of course not ....but in my experience the deck is stacked against us and either obtain comfortable trust with a mechanic or track indicators that paid services were performed. Unless I reach something like an AT or engine rebuild I will continue to do my own maintenance well into retirement. My grandfather's (no longer alive) born in early 20th century would be otherwise disappointed. 
.. frankly... I would disappoint myself at this point to fully turn the keys over on that area as long as I have an ICE vehicle.
.. frankly... I would disappoint myself at this point to fully turn the keys over on that area as long as I have an ICE vehicle.
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Here is a quick story as to why I try to do as much of the maintenance / repair that I can.Bare with my rant as I try to keep at a minimum: Years ago I have paid for services not rendered... not again... (Present day: Wife and co-workers ask all the time why I bother with own maintenance...it isn't the $$$ by any means) ... many are throwing dollars into the wind to feel "comfortable" maintenance is being taken care of. Am I saying all mechanics are crooks?.. of course not ....but in my experience the deck is stacked against us and either obtain comfortable trust with a mechanic or track indicators that paid services were performed. Unless I reach something like an AT or engine rebuild I will continue to do my own maintenance well into retirement. My grandfather's (no longer alive) born in early 20th century would be otherwise disappointed.
A few years ago I took my car to a dealer for an oil change (it was a VW GTI). Oil change was done, paid the 69.99 AND got the free carwash, which Is the excuse I used to justify paying the 70 bucks plus tax on the oil change. A few days later I found a pool of oil under the car, which I thought was very peculiar. I took the car back, they told me that whoever did the oil change had cross threaded the drain bolt, and the oil pan was 500 bucks. After they confirmed they had done the job, they now wanted to tap the drain plug threads, it was tooth and nail to eventually get these guys to replace the entire oil pan. I don’t have time to deal with crap like this, which is why if I can avoid an untrained / inexperienced / underpaid person from touching my car I do. Also if I’m going to break stuff, then you know what ? you’re usually wayyy ahead if you’re doing the work yourself.
Story 2: BMW X1 Brakes / Rotor replacement (4 new rotors / all new pads) Bmw quoted 1700.00 plus tax. DIY with OEM Zimmerman Parts 400.00 total
- Thread starter
- #37
Once you have some decent mechanical knowledge, it’s cringeworthy to hear the sale pitches and reasoning shops have for doing certain things.
Sadly, my local dealership has been my best mechanic experience of late. Overpriced definitely, but worth it when I can’t be bothered.
Sadly, my local dealership has been my best mechanic experience of late. Overpriced definitely, but worth it when I can’t be bothered.
r2m
Richard
Okay since very body has high jacked this thread, I'll assume there's room for at least one more mechanic story.
First off, the two best phone numbers to have on your phone for life are one, a good mechanic and two a good dentist. I have to agree with Acrad about finding a good "young" mechanic. We have had one for 30 years, just a Mom and Pop shop with a few mechanics working for him. He finally retired and sold his business to a young guy last year. So far, so good. The new young guy kept the mechanics so they knew the customers and how things ran around the shop and were able to get the new owner up to speed on how the previous owner ran things. The new guy has made some minor changes but all-in-all he seems to be keeping the same quality work!
Oh, and just an idea of the integrity of the shop, some years ago I had my vehicle serviced, but the owner was on vacation and his #1 was running the shop while he was gone. His #1 is also a great guy who we knew from going to our church. So a few months later I bring it in again for another unrelated issue with my vehicle. The owner looks at the little vinyl sticky in the corner of the windshield that gives the time and mileage due for the next service. We are like clockwork on service for our vehicles and he notices that the sticky says were way past due for service. So he does a complete service on my vehicle after taking care of the issue I brought it in for. Then he looks at our history on his computer and see we did have it serviced just a few months ago but his #1 forgot to change out the sticky with the future date and mileage for the next service. The owner assumed it wasn't done and just did the service anyways.
So, I go and pick up my rig and he tells me that aside from fixing the issue it was brought in for, he also did the service on it which I DID NOT ask for.
And in the same breath as telling me all he did, he stated that the entire service was on him!! No charge or anything. I even offered to pay for materials (oil, etc.) and he wouldn't accept it!!
That's how all mechanics should be! Along with just being competent in their wrenching abilities.
First off, the two best phone numbers to have on your phone for life are one, a good mechanic and two a good dentist. I have to agree with Acrad about finding a good "young" mechanic. We have had one for 30 years, just a Mom and Pop shop with a few mechanics working for him. He finally retired and sold his business to a young guy last year. So far, so good. The new young guy kept the mechanics so they knew the customers and how things ran around the shop and were able to get the new owner up to speed on how the previous owner ran things. The new guy has made some minor changes but all-in-all he seems to be keeping the same quality work!
Oh, and just an idea of the integrity of the shop, some years ago I had my vehicle serviced, but the owner was on vacation and his #1 was running the shop while he was gone. His #1 is also a great guy who we knew from going to our church. So a few months later I bring it in again for another unrelated issue with my vehicle. The owner looks at the little vinyl sticky in the corner of the windshield that gives the time and mileage due for the next service. We are like clockwork on service for our vehicles and he notices that the sticky says were way past due for service. So he does a complete service on my vehicle after taking care of the issue I brought it in for. Then he looks at our history on his computer and see we did have it serviced just a few months ago but his #1 forgot to change out the sticky with the future date and mileage for the next service. The owner assumed it wasn't done and just did the service anyways.
So, I go and pick up my rig and he tells me that aside from fixing the issue it was brought in for, he also did the service on it which I DID NOT ask for.
And in the same breath as telling me all he did, he stated that the entire service was on him!! No charge or anything. I even offered to pay for materials (oil, etc.) and he wouldn't accept it!!
That's how all mechanics should be! Along with just being competent in their wrenching abilities.
- Thread starter
- #39
Correct, no schrader valves or banjo bolt methods available on the GX. To run any tests, you'd need an inline T connection to bridge a fuel line point like this:
It'd need to be different than most inline testers out there, you need a male and female end to the gauge (most I saw are both make ends).
Something like this setup maybe:
YAMAHA SHO 1.8L INLINE FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE
INLINE FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE FOR ALL YAMAHA 1.8L, 1.8L SHO
pps-parts.com
Received my rebuilt injectors in yesterday and will tackle it this weekend. I really should read the FSM on how to bleed off fuel pressure before doing it though, sprayed myself with fuel real good twice now (I know I know).
Could you pull the fuel pump relay while running and let it die to relieve pressure?
or this fuse
or this fuse
