Is this welder any good? (1 Viewer)

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Schumacher 180 Turbo Mig Welder

This Schumacher MIG welder welds solid steel, aluminum or flux corded self-shielding steel wires. 230V, 60 Hz, single phase. Handles solid MIG (with shielding gas) or fluxed corded welding wires. Volts: 230, Amps: 180, Duty Cycle: 60% at 150 Amps
Mig Ready
Wire Feed Speed Control
Weldable Metals: Steel, aluminum, or flux corded selfshielding steel wires.
Clamp Cable Length (ft.): 10
Regulator and Gas Hose Included
Cart two rear wheels and two swivel casters
60 Hz, single phase CSA rated 8 heat settings 2-stage or 4-stage trigger control Four roll
Quick reset-style
Top-load wire feed syste
5ft. power cord (plug included)
Quick-connect MIG gun
Wire spool capacity: 4in.-12in. spools up to 30 lbs.
Built-in cart handles small to full-size cylinders.

My buddy and I are going in together on a welder. Neither of us really have any experience or much knowledge on the subject. I will be using it for truck-related fabrication (bumpers, sliders, suspension bits) and my buddy is building a tube-chassis race car (think Ariel Atom). Anyhoo, it will be used mostly on thick steel and occasionally on sheet metal.

What specs should we be looking for from a welder? I do have 220v power in my garage.

Thanks in advance :)
 
I picked up a Millermatic 250X for $850. I'd pass on this one and keep looking for a Miller or Lincoln. With a used welder, I'd want easy service and support for it - which you'll get from a name brand.
 
Definitely NOT a good deal for $600. Buy Miller, Hobart, Esab, or Lincoln.

If you're going to welding mostly 1/4" and thicker, I look for something in the 200+ amp range in a full size case.

Yes, I know you can buy a Miller or Hobart that will do 210 amps in a small, portable, case, but it will not have the duty cycle like a Millermatic 200, 210/212, 251/252 or Hobart Ironman 230.

Personally, I'd buy a Millermatic 200 or Vintage. Millermatic 200 is one of my favorite welders for power, durability, and very nice soft arc.
 
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I should also mention that our budget is in the $600 neighborhood. Do you think that's doable?
 
I should also mention that our budget is in the $600 neighborhood. Do you think that's doable?

I'd say it is doable if you're fast to respond to an ad. Have cash on hand and be ready to jump all over a great deal.
 
So any more input on this? Is the consensus that it's better to wait/pay extra for a brand-name welder?
 
If you don't believe us, try this out. Pick up your yellow pages, call your local welding supply, tell them you have a Schumacher Model Xxx welder that isn't working properly, and ask them if they can repair it. Also tell them that it is missing a few parts and ask whether they can order parts for it. That should give you a pretty clear idea of whether you want to mess with it or not.
 
So any more input on this? Is the consensus that it's better to wait/pay extra for a brand-name welder?

You really don't pay "extra" for a brand name welder when you consider the feature, quality, and engineering that comes with it.

It is a bargain for what you get when you figure out the total cost of ownership for 20 years.

Value of an item is not determined by price only.

Here is a quote to think about....

"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten” – Benjamin Franklin
 
If you don't believe us, try this out. Pick up your yellow pages, call your local welding supply, tell them you have a Schumacher Model Xxx welder that isn't working properly, and ask them if they can repair it. Also tell them that it is missing a few parts and ask whether they can order parts for it. That should give you a pretty clear idea of whether you want to mess with it or not.

while this is correct for mostly gun and roller/feed parts it doesnt really matter when it comes to internal problems.

Any lincoln miller or hobart that has board or electronic issues is going to be cheaper to replace than repair.

I have killed a few name brand machines that were not worth repairing.

The only time repairing has been cost effective for me is when the gun/whip needs parts or drive motor/rollers.
 
One thing nobody seems to mention is the "always hot" part of most cheapies.

Most cheap/noname welders always have "hot" wire.

Most good name brand welders will only juice up the feed wire when the trigger is depressed.

Nothing is more frustrating than a welder that burns the wire back into the tip anytime you get too close before starting to weld.
 
These guys are just trying to spend your money.

For the size of material and amount your going to use it you dont need to spend a grand on a 220+amp 80percent+ duty cycle welder.

Just watch CraigsList for a Miller MM175 or mm180 for $400-$600 and be done.

Good machine, plenty hot for what your doing. 400 will most likely be with no bottle/regulator, 5-600 will get you a bottle and regulator usually.

GET THE BOTTLE AND REGULATOR. I dont suggest using flux core wire for 4x4 and race car related fab either. Just my OPINION.

(I have a snapon 230 amp 100% duty cycle machine and a MM180 and I havent used the snapon for over a year) I likes me little miller.
 
while this is correct for mostly gun and roller/feed parts it doesnt really matter when it comes to internal problems.

Any lincoln miller or hobart that has board or electronic issues is going to be cheaper to replace than repair.

I have killed a few name brand machines that were not worth repairing.

The only time repairing has been cost effective for me is when the gun/whip needs parts or drive motor/rollers.

Not necessarily. You can do board level repairs on the Miller boards. I fixed a MM 175 feed problems with a $2.00 darlington transistor. There are places that will repair your boards. This will be cheaper than buying the board from the manufacturer.
 
These guys are just trying to spend your money.

For the size of material and amount your going to use it you dont need to spend a grand on a 220+amp 80percent+ duty cycle welder.

Just watch CraigsList for a Miller MM175 or mm180 for $400-$600 and be done.

Good machine, plenty hot for what your doing. 400 will most likely be with no bottle/regulator, 5-600 will get you a bottle and regulator usually.

GET THE BOTTLE AND REGULATOR. I dont suggest using flux core wire for 4x4 and race car related fab either. Just my OPINION.

(I have a snapon 230 amp 100% duty cycle machine and a MM180 and I havent used the snapon for over a year) I likes me little miller.

"Anyhoo, it will be used mostly on thick steel and occasionally on sheet metal."

Based on the OP's requirement, I'd pass on the MM 175/180/211 welders. These little welders don't have the duty cycle necessary if you're to be welding on 1/4" and thicker consistently.

You can get a MUCH better welder (output, drive roll mechanism, ability to run 12" spools) in a full size case like a MM 200, 210/212, 251/252, or Vintage for a little more money if you're patient.
 
Duty cycle isn't something I've considered all that important thus far. But maybe I should... I don't know.

I can't imagine any project where I will need to weld more than, say, 6 inches at a time. If I buy a less powerful welder, will I be able to lay a 6 inch bead on something thick? How long before I can move on to the next weld? I'm not doing any high-volume work here, just one tube here, one plate there, etc.
 
Duty cycle isn't something I've considered all that important thus far. But maybe I should... I don't know.

I can't imagine any project where I will need to weld more than, say, 6 inches at a time. If I buy a less powerful welder, will I be able to lay a 6 inch bead on something thick? How long before I can move on to the next weld? I'm not doing any high-volume work here, just one tube here, one plate there, etc.

Duty cycle is very important. You want to buy a welder than has enough duty cycle. Most welders do not produce the best quality arc at max power output. Cheap POS chinese made welders will not have a duty cycle like the name brand welders. Also, you'll need to see how their rating is actually done - what outside ambient temperature is used to calculate the duty cycle?

If you plan on welding lots of 1/4" and thicker, you should get a more powerful welder. I've never heard of anyone with a powerful (power output, more features) welder wishing they had less power. Can't use what you don't have. Do you ever plan on welding 1/2" steel? How about aluminum? Do you need the ability to run a spoolgun in the future?

I suggest you do a search for "welder duty cycle" on google to get more info.

You get what you pay for. It will be cheaper in the long run to buy a quality welder with sufficient capacity than selling the chinese made POS at a huge loss later and upgrading to the welder you really wanted.

This is my last post.
 
Please understand, I'm not trying to be argumentative, I was just hoping for a real-world explanation of how a good duty cycle would be needed. I imagine myself laying down a 4-inch weld and maybe having to wait a minute or two to work on the next weld. To me, this doesn't seem like a big deal. But then again, I have no real-world experience.
 
Please understand, I'm not trying to be argumentative, I was just hoping for a real-world explanation of how a good duty cycle would be needed. I imagine myself laying down a 4-inch weld and maybe having to wait a minute or two to work on the next weld. To me, this doesn't seem like a big deal. But then again, I have no real-world experience.


You will be fine, like I said they are spending your money and they wont be happy till your broke and have twice the machine you and your friend need.

Like I said I have a 220 amp snapon and I have a 180MM that I use mostly.

I used the mm180 to tack this trailer together and figured I would weld it up with the snapon. Never did, just used the 180 and I have been towing with it for over two years with no problems. Its a 24 foot deckover thats rated for 12K.

Here is a pic of the trailer and one of the welds on 3/8 thick X 10 inch I beam to 8 inch channel iron.
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