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Is this the worst possible place to break a bolt?

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by vtcruiser60, Aug 18, 2006.

  1. vtcruiser60

    vtcruiser60 SILVER Star

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    Is this the worst possible place to break a bolt?--*Pics Added

    I overtightened the stud bolt linking the egr downtube to the exhaust manifold. It is the bolt closest to the firewall.

    For those with experience extracting broken bolts, is it possible to do this on my back with the manifolds attached to the head? Or am I simply screwed?

    This has been my luck with this rig....
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2006
  2. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    I have not ever been able to get the stud out of the manifold piece with the manifold attached to the engine.....

    Further, I have dropped the end piece of the manifold off at the machine shop so that they could dig out the old stud, and then helicoil if required.



    Sucks bud.


    Good luck!


    -Steve
     
  3. Clutchee

    Clutchee I'm fun sized! SILVER Star

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    Post a pic of your issue.....if you can remove the item you need to get the broken bolt out of. From there you can drill it out....lets first see some pics.
     
  4. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    Welding a nut on the remains of the stud works like magic, but welding a nut on that particular stud in that particular location could be tough. If you can get the welding rod and nut in there, it is worth a try.
     
  5. vtcruiser60

    vtcruiser60 SILVER Star

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    After breaking the bolt and posting last night, I had some beers and cooled down. This morning I reexamined the break and snapped the following pictures.

    It seems that there is a between 1/8th and 1/4 of an inch of stud remaining. I think there might be enough room for a thin washer and smaller diameter nut for a weld. I have a stick welder and a good mask.

    What do you think? What are the approaches?
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2008
  6. MJM

    MJM SILVER Star

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    Same thing 1 month ago

    I went through the same thing last month, but my stud was already broken by PO or ?. Welding may be an option but for me the stud was flush. I ended up drilling it out what a PITA and put a hella coil in. It worked well for a week but the hella coil came loose and now my only hope is to pull the manifold and fix it or replace with headers. Good luck and as you know it is a real PITA to work on that area.
    MJM
     
  7. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Strike and arc and get it done.....


    You have nothing to lose.


    Good luck!


    -Steve
     
  8. Fourrunner

    Fourrunner SILVER Star

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    My recommendation would be first try to get on it with a pair of vise grips. worst case, you can weld on it and try to get it out. My were really loose and would come out easily.
     
  9. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    Just weld a nut on it. Hold the nut with a magnet. It doesn't matter whether the stud is protruding or not. 7018 doesn't stick to rusty cast iron. It doesn't have to be a great weld, but you want to hold the arc long enough to get the stud red hot (~5-10 sec). When it cools it shrinks and they will usually come out easily.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. planemech

    planemech

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    One suggestion for you and every single individual that is on this site and every one else who messes around with a little mechanicing. MOUSE MILK! http://www.mousemilk.com/index.html better than wd-40. I am an aircraft mechanic and we use this stuff all the time. This Stuff Works. Soak your fastner for a while and then try again.
     
  11. mrsvle

    mrsvle

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    There are some very effective screw/bolt extractor bits available, several different designs, found at ACE Hardware or SEARS. Much better designs than the old EZ-Outs.

    Hit the bolt with some WD-40 or some such penetrating solvent, then use a screw extrator bit with a reversible drill. Designed for this very purpose.

    HTH

    Matt
     
  12. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Charlie...


    Is that one of those Cali exhaust manifolds?

    I have only seen one in person a long time ago...
     
  13. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    Why yes it it. Good eye. It happens to be the only one I have seen that was not cracked. I have been collecting them because I still have to pass a smog check every two years. Not that the smog tech would know one from a regular manifold, but I didn't want to change the rest of the exhaust and EGR stuff.
     
  14. brett76

    brett76

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    the same thing happened to me. they got it out for me when i resurfaced it and retapped a new stud
     
  15. vtcruiser60

    vtcruiser60 SILVER Star

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    Thanks for the replies so far.

    I am inclined to try the welding a bolt method. The manifold was just planed and I hate to pull the damn thing off to get a better angle on it.

    As far as rods, someone mentioned using 7018. I have some 7014 handy and wonder if that would work? I read up a bit and see that stainless steel rods are rather stout for this kind of repair, but hate to go buy a pound if the 7014 would work well enough. What should I be using on this?

    Sure is an annoying problem.
     
  16. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    Yes, any type of welding will work. Some rods like 7018 are less likely to stick to cast iron. I thought you would have it out by now.
     
  17. Fourrunner

    Fourrunner SILVER Star

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    Hey VT...any luck on this bolt?
     
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