AFAIK Toyota sells the whole assembly
Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter chukiechz
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Yes. I don't know where my photos went, but the new part is thicker when comparing them. I replaced mine when it was 10 yrs old at 141k miles, have not doubled the time or miles yet... so can't say for sure, but it definitely looked like a better design.
Edit: Well it looks like I missed the next page where this question was answered.
Yes. I don't know where my photos went, but the new part is thicker when comparing them. I replaced mine when it was 10 yrs old at 141k miles, have not doubled the time or miles yet... so can't say for sure, but it definitely looked like a better design.
Edit: Well it looks like I missed the next page where this question was answered.
I don't usually end up with the steering wheel locked. Is that one of the things that kills these is turning the key against the steering wheel lock?
I believe that likely adds to it. I don't normally have mine locked either, but it was when my ignition broke. Although when it happened I didn't feel the snap, it just spun. - The old design was thinner in one area and just couldn't handle the torque being put on it.
I’m having a bear of time with this repair and Ive assembled and disassembled the ignition about 5 times just to try different things and I’ve had two issues,
1. car starts, steering wouldn’t unlock.
2. I turn everything 180 - which unlocked the steering wheel, reassembled and car won’t start, and the key becomes locked in the ignition, when I unplug the battery the key is released.
That is what it looks like when I remove the key in the ACC position, so I’m assuming that is the correct 4 O’clock position? Car won’t start and steering wheel is unlocked, key can’t be removed from ignition.
I checked the EFI fuse and swapped it with other fuses. Same issue.
1. car starts, steering wouldn’t unlock.
2. I turn everything 180 - which unlocked the steering wheel, reassembled and car won’t start, and the key becomes locked in the ignition, when I unplug the battery the key is released.
That is what it looks like when I remove the key in the ACC position, so I’m assuming that is the correct 4 O’clock position? Car won’t start and steering wheel is unlocked, key can’t be removed from ignition.
I checked the EFI fuse and swapped it with other fuses. Same issue.
@flintknapper yes that pretty much where mine is at. You really don’t have a choice, it’s either there or 180 degrees in the opposite direction because The key has to be in ACC or else the plunger won’t depress and you can’t get the tumbler into the housing.
Used this guide to replace my ignition switch rod with an updated version. Thanks!
This happened to me a few weeks ago at the worst possible moment. I destroyed the entire assembly and some more. I haven’t gotten it fixed yet.
My question is, can all that junk be eliminated and replaced with a push button?
My question is, can all that junk be eliminated and replaced with a push button?
Theoretically? yes! Practically? not without a lot of custom modifications.
I suspect you will need to either replace the security ring with some sort of radio receiver to bypass the ignition lock. Then you will need to physically cut out the steering lock or remove it somehow. The actual engagement of the starter just takes a simple switch that can pass on 12v but everything else is not that straight forward
There are auto security systems that have the chip from one of your keys that make it remote start with a key fob. Not sure how that works if your key portion and column lock are hosed though.
Any modification to the procedure for replacing a fully intact shaft with an updated version? I’m curious if you have to loosen the screws on the white piece.
That's exactly what I did. Not much difference, it is just easier to do! Yes, I had to loosen the white piece to create about 1/8th inch gap. Everything is easily accessible. Took me about 30 minutes start to finish.
Well, considering the steering lock was destroyed in the process of hot wiring it. I guess the hardest part is already done.
Is this something Best Buy techs can do?
Worth checking with them.
Did you get it on yourself? I have questions.
IT BROKE AGAIN after 11 Years
In March 2010 I replaced the entire bracket p/n 45280-60510 with a genuine Toyota part when this happened to my 2000 LX470. I drilled out the security bolts and I mounted the new part with hex bolts as per other posts.
I am unhappy to report that today it has broken again. The first time it was in my drive way; this time my son had the car about 20 minutes away. I drove there with a set of tools, got everything apart, unlocked the steering wheel, started up the truck, and within 40 minutes after arriving I was driving it back home.
The photo below is of the rod that I just removed from the 2010 assembly. It appears to be the "stronger" rod. Note that it broke in a different spot (immediately to the left of the "7853A" marking on the reverse) than what other people have been reporting. It appears that by strengthening the end of the rod, they simply moved the weakest point somewhere else.
In March 2010 I replaced the entire bracket p/n 45280-60510 with a genuine Toyota part when this happened to my 2000 LX470. I drilled out the security bolts and I mounted the new part with hex bolts as per other posts.
I am unhappy to report that today it has broken again. The first time it was in my drive way; this time my son had the car about 20 minutes away. I drove there with a set of tools, got everything apart, unlocked the steering wheel, started up the truck, and within 40 minutes after arriving I was driving it back home.
The photo below is of the rod that I just removed from the 2010 assembly. It appears to be the "stronger" rod. Note that it broke in a different spot (immediately to the left of the "7853A" marking on the reverse) than what other people have been reporting. It appears that by strengthening the end of the rod, they simply moved the weakest point somewhere else.
Thanks for sharing this. Some one should create a replacement made of proper steel instead cast with pot iron!
jLB
Another one followed me home. Can we keep it?
I still like this solution:
Ignition switch broken...help?!
When I put the key in, it turns freely through the normal range without doing anything. The door chime sounds with the door open, but no mechanical resistance and nothing turns on. The steering wheel lowers with the key in like normal. The steering wheel isn't locked from turning with the key...
forum.ih8mud.com
It would disable the steering wheel lock, but it also eliminates the stress point(s). Maybe I need a new lathe & mill
May be I should finish up my project on this. I don't want to replace them with new ones if they are going break again. My machine guy said billet aluminum is strong enough. Steel is heavier and may eventually break your key.
