Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (2 Viewers)

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If anyone has a broken one they could ship me, I would be interested to try and identify the metal used and if it could be welded reliably. Of course I can pay shipping within the 48.

Perhaps a weld could repair and or reinforce one of these shafts.
I might have the broken piece. The metal is what I've always heard called as potmetal - kind of that grainy casting metal on cheap stuff.
 
Mine occurred at 345000 Kilometers. Pulled it out in the carpark put my key in the ignition, screwdriver to start and drove home.

Being a weekend and knowing that Toyota Australia wouldn't have an ignition barrel assy anyway, I decided to fix it.

In a nutshell I drilled into each end inserted a roll pin in, then metal epoxied it all together.

Waited a day gave it a light filing then threw it back in and it lasted the six weeks it took to get just the rod from the United Kingdom.

I still have it in the back of the Landcruiser and I can have the whole assy changed in about 25 minutes.

If i find where I put it in the landcruiser I will post a pic of the repaired rod.

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I might have the broken piece. The metal is what I've always heard called as potmetal - kind of that grainy casting metal on cheap stuff.
Yeah, there isn't a standard for metal contents for potmetal so Its hard to say what it is exactly, or if I can weld it without having one in hand and I would like to experiment on a broken one first. If you have both pieces of the broken part to ship, send me a PM and lets work something out. I'm not in a bind or anything, just curious to see what can be done.
 
Ignition rod broke on the 1999 Land cruiser. Having trouble locating the part number says 7850 B, which of course the dealer says partial part and has to sell the while cylinder. Anyone know where I can purchase?
 
As far as I know, you have to purchase the whole part through Toyota (at least that is what I did) or you can get a knock-off on ebay.

 
Just ordered one.....because you KNOW at some point you're going to need it.

Not unlike heater Tees, Booster Pump Motor, etc....(things that will leave you on the side of the road).
 
What a bear this job was. I ended up having to pull the entire column out and do it on a workbench because the new shaft was in 180 degrees out and the screwdrive holding the lock mechanism fell out - locking the new shaft in there. Taking the column out is actually pretty simple, 8 harness/plug connections, 4 bolts holding it to the dash, and the pinch bolt at the very bottom (take it completely out, not just loose. Then I made the mistake of standing the column upside down (steering wheel down) and the actual steering shaft fell inside the telescoping housing and I couldn't get it to slide all the way out again - so that had to be disassembled and the shaft removed and installed and held in place with about 4" sticking out using a zip tie around the shaft to prevent it from slipping in again. With it out, removing the safety bolts wasn't bad, I used a small chisel to make an X pattern on the head of each bolt and then drilled successively larger holes in the top until they broke free of the rest of the bolt. With the lock assembly removed, I could remove the rest of the safety bolts by finger and replace them with allen head bolts and some locktite later on. With the lock mechanism in my hand, I could press the steering wheel lock and free the stuck (new) rod and also remove the while plastic ignition switch to see that there's a slot on one side of the hole and the ignition rod has to be turned to a certain spot before it will come out (or go back in) - that's the reason why removing the broken piece is so tricky, you have to spin it, jiggle it, tug it with a long wire or long needle nose pliers until the tab on the end of the piece aligns with the slot in the very end of the barrel and it can come out. So much simpler out of the car than doing it in, but some people get lucky and can swap out the rod with everything in the car.
 
If you are not having the problem yet, is there a DIY for fixing this in a preventative type manner?
 
If you are not having the problem yet, is there a DIY for fixing this in a preventative type manner?


Just do all that except it will be easier to take out the original part!
 
Is a new part an improved part?
Yes, several ppl have reported the new part to be much stronger. Mine was changed a few years ago, before I bought the truck a few it has been solid so far!
 
I have the replacement rod and keep it in the vehicle. Dreading the day I get the call from the Wifey that the key is doing nothing. She is so rough starting the vehicle and I can NOT get her to park with the steering wheel pointed straight ahead, so its just a matter of time before it breaks I'm sure.
 
Teaching wife's and teenager, how to release steering wheel lock tension. Before (force) turning IG SW. Will save most all this broken rods.
 
Teaching wife's and teenager, how to release steering wheel lock tension. Before (force) turning IG SW. Will save most all this broken rods.
When my wifes broke, she has what seemed like 5 lbs of junk hanging on her key chain.
 
Just to be clear, can you buy the new / improved shaft from Toyota or do you have to buy the whole assembly ($250-ish) in order to get it?
 
When my wifes broke, she has what seemed like 5 lbs of junk hanging on her key chain.
Junk (weight) hanging causes a different problem. Which is; causes premature wear of the tumbler. In the LX this can become very costly to have Lexus repair!
 

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