Is this distributer toast? PICS

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Jun 28, 2005
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Colorado springs
My 1974 55 just shut down on me 2 days ago in the middle of the road.

Replaced the coil and ballast resistor
All lights work
engine turns over
it just wont come to life

Just pulled the distributer. Under the dust cover is what looks like flash residue

And where the point makes the connection the same residue and a little high heat disscoloration. Is it toast?
PICT0157.JPG
PICT0154.JPG
 
points just look burnt to me...

sand them quick with a hunk of sandpaper, put it back together...and you will have spark.

You will then need to replace them.


Good luck!


-Steve
 
Looks like the contact on the left is missing..

Replace the points. Don't screw around with trying to fix them ;)
 
Mace said:
Looks like the contact on the left is missing..

Replace the points. Don't screw around with trying to fix them ;)




5 seconds to verify the issue bud...it was not intended to fix them.


:beer:
 
True, but if the contacts have bonded together and the arm is doing all of the work then sandpaper won't help much ;)

Wasn't arguing, just making sure that he knew that the points needed to be replaced anyway (and do the condensor while you are at it)

BTW, is there an aftermarket electronic ignition on this rig???
 
Pay close attention and take care when replacing your points and condensor to the location and orientation of the little insulators. One wrong move there and you'll get nothing as well. And since it's out gap the points before you put it back in...it'll be easier.
 
Use ;)
 
bonzai said:
What would cause this to happen?





12 volts going strait to the points will burn them out every time, without fail. The ballast resistor is supposed to drop the voltage to the points to around 9 iirc, thus limiting the arcing that occurs, and subsequent point wear.


On your vehicle, you may have a wire that comes from a terminal on the starter solenoid that attaches to the points....this is designed to give the points a full 12 volts on start up only. If that wire from the solenoid is on a different stud, you could be sending 12 volts to your points. I would put things back together after installing a new set of points, and then verify the voltage going to the points with a multi-meter.


Good luck!


-Steve
 
Now lets get that little piggie goin again :bounce:
 
Poser said:
12 volts going strait to the points will burn them out every time, without fail. The ballast resistor is supposed to drop the voltage to the points to around 9 iirc, thus limiting the arcing that occurs, and subsequent point wear.


On your vehicle, you may have a wire that comes from a terminal on the starter solenoid that attaches to the points....this is designed to give the points a full 12 volts on start up only. If that wire from the solenoid is on a different stud, you could be sending 12 volts to your points. I would put things back together after installing a new set of points, and then verify the voltage going to the points with a multi-meter.


Good luck!


-Steve
Is that what that wire is for...

I use it on my rig to give 12 volts directly to the coil. Which I guess equates to the same thing..

But mine is electronic..
 
When I put my electronic out of an 83 in the 73 .....I now have that particular wire flappin in the breeze at both ends :hillbilly:....it's been 5 mins already....is that piggie squeelin yet ???
 
I had to walk to the auto parts store
Now I am back in the warmth of my home
 
Will the beer freeze if left outside ???
 
Is the small brass post supposed to be removed

Because I have replacemont points part # A536 CAlifornia smog
Someone said to try part # A522 NOn CA smoged
PICT0161.JPG
 
The new points should go back in the same way the old ones came out. Do your new ones look exactly (except for the wear) like the old ones. If not head back to the parts store with your old ones in hand and don't leave until your new ones match up.
 
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