Is the mobil 1 0w-20 full synthetic oil okay to use in a 1997 lexus lx450 . (1 Viewer)

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Is the mobil 1 0w-20 full synthetic oil okay to use in a 1997 lexus lx450 . It has 180,000 miles on it . I have been watching some videos about the 0w-20 oil and it seems to clean out the gummyness around the piston rings and can help it from stop burning oil . Listen to what this guy is saying . If not long term maybe a few changes to help clean the engine out ? What do you mechanics think ? Thanks in advance .
 
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Nothing real technical to add here, but don’t use a 20 weight in a cruiser, or any engine if it doesn’t call for it. While he is talking about a Toyota engine, it’s not what you have. Factory global spec for our engines is 30-50wt depending on environment and use, and US spec, which is on the conservative side for mpg purposes, is 30. Many of us use 40. Going thinner for oil consumption/etc especially in an older or higher mileage engine is backward.

180K isn’t high for a cruiser, but it’s not new, and even off the showroom floor they weren’t the tighter tolerance engines of today that call for 20wt, so going thinner doesn’t make sense in any regard. It’s not the fact of being a 20wt that’s doing any “cleaning” anyway. If you want to approach it this way, maybe use a high-quality synthetic over a few shorter intervals with good filters, or try a diesel oil (more detergent properties & fine to use in a gas engine), or maybe someone can recommend an additive.

Are you having an issue that’s making you think about this?

What is your KY climate like so we can recommend a weight & oil
 
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AussieHJCruza

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0W20 is far too light for a 1FZ. I second running a diesel oil if you want to 'clean' things out. If you confirm the temperature range you operate in, we can make a suggesion. All my 1FZ have had 15W40 mineral or semi synthetic (N/A engine) and 15W60 full synthetic for the turbo engine. Temperature range here -5C to 40C, sometimes slightly lower or higher.

EDIT: I'd forgotten that the US trucks have cat converters. Diesel oils do tend to have more ZDDP which indeed doesn't help the cats if she's using a bit of oil
 
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Ditto and definite NO, too light as already mentioned. Something around +/- 10W-40 unless below freezing weather. Most brands of oil now have a line that says it cleans up sludge/varnish.

Example: I ran 0W-30 Mobil 1 for awhile in my 96 model FZJ80 when it had maybe 175-200k miles on the engine and the lead levels went up slightly on a routine engine oil analysis. Went to 10W-40 Mobil 1 and the lead levels came back down.

One thing to keep in mind: Diesel oils generally have more phosphorus (ZDDP) which could theoretically damage your Catalytic convertors (quicker than non-diesel oil) if your engine is burning some oil.
 
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I'd happily run an oil that starts with 0W, but I absolutely wouldn't run one the ends in 20! That means it thins out to what a 20 weight oil would at temperature.

Here's the 80 series recommended oil chart posted in an older thread:

80 series oil viscosity.JPG


The minimum on the upper end of the recommended range is 30 weight.

If you want cleaning action, consider a diesel oil. I believe they have more detergents. Shell Rotella is a good, inexpensive option.

For what it's worth, I ran Mobil 1 0W-40 for awhile because of the excellent review here in an old thread. I was burning and leaking way too much, so I switched to 10W-40 high mileage, which put my oil consumption within the acceptable range.
 
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Thanks everyone . I will stick to the 30 to 40 w . I just wasn't sure if things have changed because of the new oil that came out in 2020 . My truck was smoking a little on a cold start but since I changed the oil with just the regular 10w 30 along with a Toyota filter it stopped smoking . The only thing I changed was from the frame filer to the Toyota filter . I never drive it more than a mile or 2 a day if that , but my daughter moved to Asheville NC which is about 3 hours away . I brought her couch in a covered u- haul which was a 2 way rent so I had to being it back . So far that is the longest distance I have ever taken the truck on and the first time its ever pulled anything that heavy . I got the truck from my dad after he passed away in 2012 . Its been babied to death. He never hooked up any thing to it . . After I got back It hasn't burn any oil at and and no smoke at start up . I think I just needed to get it out on the road and run it . I keep checking the oil and its staying in the same place on the stick so I think that new Toyota filter and just running it 6 hours pulling a trailer helped a lot . I really do like this thing . Since I got it I have put new Michelin tires on it , put all new shocks on it , change out the speakers and stereo system to a kenwood DDX9903s with the big screen . I added front and rear camera that plugs into the kenwood so now I have a backup camera , I went with the polkaudio marine grade speakers that I got to fit under the original covers thanks to( texas know how) that is member here and has a great youtube video . It sounds so good now . I cut out a space for a 12 inch woofer in the back rear panel . The model I have has the front and rear locking differential that I have yet to use . Before my dad died I would bug him to give it to me and he always said you can have it once I'm dead . He lived to be 83 but still to soon for me . I'm not a mechanic but I'm trying to learn how to take care of this great machine . This is the best group I have come across for help . The people here I think are great . Thanks again for the help .
 
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After I got back It hasn't burn any oil at and and no smoke at start up . I think I just needed to get it out on the road and run it . I keep checking the oil and its staying in the same place on the stick so I think that new Toyota filter and just running it 6 hours pulling a trailer helped a lot .
Engines do like to be run. It’s good to drive them a bit, get everything up to full operating temp and give it time to “purge” in a sense, by going through a real heat cycle and being in “stabile” operation for a bit, namely on a nice cruise as opposed to stop/go traffic. Helps keep internals cleaner, burns condensation out of the exhaust system, etc. This is part of why low miles on an aging vehicle can be an illusion of health, but of course, it depends on a lot of things. A bunch of 1-2 mile drives adding up to 50 miles likely causes more wear than your one long trip, so I’d suggest stretching it out once in a while. Plus, cruising in a cruiser is sweet!

I have a kicker on my boat that I virtually never need, but at least a few times a season I give it a chance to run for a while and go through its RPM range. Helps keep it alive, so that years down the road if I really need it, I won’t find myself in a pickle where my “super low hours” kicker won’t start. The kicker that came with the boat years ago was seized, in part due to never being used.
 
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surfpig

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I'd happily run an oil that starts with 0W, but I absolutely wouldn't run one the ends in 20! That means it thins out to what a 20 weight oil would at temperature.

Here's the 80 series recommended oil chart posted in an older thread:

View attachment 3094620

The minimum on the upper end of the recommended range is 30 weight.

If you want cleaning action, consider a diesel oil. I believe they have more detergents. Shell Rotella is a good, inexpensive option.

For what it's worth, I ran Mobil 1 0W-40 for awhile because of the excellent review here in an old thread. I was burning and leaking way too much, so I switched to 10W-40 high mileage, which put my oil consumption within the acceptable range.
Agreed. When I bought mine it had the specified US oil, 5W30 (synthetic). I never burned much, but it was pretty weepy around the gaskets. At some point I switched to 10W or 15W40 and all that went away. I did the same with my Subarus, switched from 0W whatever to 5 or 10W whatever.
 

Somebodyelse5

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Engines do like to be run. It’s good to drive them a bit, get everything up to full operating temp and give it time to “purge” in a sense, by going through a real heat cycle and being in “stabile” operation for a bit, namely on a nice cruise as opposed to stop/go traffic. Helps keep internals cleaner, burns condensation out of the exhaust system, etc. This is part of why low miles on an aging vehicle can be an illusion of health, but of course, it depends on a lot of things. A bunch of 1-2 mile drives adding up to 50 miles likely causes more wear than your one long trip, so I’d suggest stretching it out once in a while. Plus, cruising in a cruiser is sweet!

I have a kicker on my boat that I virtually never need, but at least a few times a season I give it a chance to run for a while and go through its RPM range. Helps keep it alive, so that years down the road if I really need it, I won’t find myself in a pickle where my “super low hours” kicker won’t start. The kicker that came with the boat years ago was seized, in part due to never being used.
the italian tuneup!
 

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