Need more pics. Try and get some from the area of the radius arm brackets. 
is POR15 a preventive treatment for a good frame? (went with Macropoxy 646) (1 Viewer)
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i don't get it. can you help me?Need more pics. Try and get some from the area of the radius arm brackets.
i was planning on cutting the slot for the caster plates and then painting these brackets with the two part epoxy and try to get one coat on in the morning and one coat before darkness. then bolt things up the day after tomorrow. i was trying to figure out if i should take some more abrasive to it or add some kind of rust prevention before putting the epoxy on.
i mean i know relatively speaking this looks great i am just trying to see if i should put a little more elbow grease into these before i cover them up...
That's better than 90% of these things on the road. You're just showing off best I can tell is all.
Macropoxy was a good call btw 
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- #25
sorry. i keep thinking to say it needs a full engine overhaul before posting. i never know how to handle this.
no i legit was hoping for a give it a second pass or “you’re good to go”. normally if i had something like this in my hand i would make sure it was all down to the steel. i’m not good with this stuff and it is getting covered for like forever. so if i should hit it with some spray or something i would before covering it...
Macropoxy 646 is an excellent product. It is very tough. Metal prep is the MOST important part of it working. You're doing a good job with the steel brush (SSPC-SP2, Hand Tool Cleaning)
Now you need to do the Solvent Wipe (SSPC-SP1) with Brakleen and such to clean off the oil, grease and other petro products where you intend to apply the paint.
I have attached the link for the Product Data Sheet on this paint. Make sure to follow it for mixing, sweat-in time, and what type of brush to use. Read and understand every word.
We use this product on industrial equipment going to coastal areas with excellent results. We try to sandblast everything to clean steel (SP6 or SP10) to get the best adherence possible.
If you don't know what these terms are, Google them for a clear answer.
This stuff goes on thick. If you're going to do two coats, you MUST wait 8 hours before the second coat or it will lift the first coat and make it peel.
Now you need to do the Solvent Wipe (SSPC-SP1) with Brakleen and such to clean off the oil, grease and other petro products where you intend to apply the paint.
I have attached the link for the Product Data Sheet on this paint. Make sure to follow it for mixing, sweat-in time, and what type of brush to use. Read and understand every word.
We use this product on industrial equipment going to coastal areas with excellent results. We try to sandblast everything to clean steel (SP6 or SP10) to get the best adherence possible.
If you don't know what these terms are, Google them for a clear answer.
This stuff goes on thick. If you're going to do two coats, you MUST wait 8 hours before the second coat or it will lift the first coat and make it peel.
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I have had issues but it has always been when I didn’t apply it correctly.
When applied correctly, which takes a lot of effort and time, it is bomber. It likes mild temps when applying and curing and it likes high humidity for both as well.
I have painted entire chassis’s with it. That were fairly rust free, but the amount of prep to get these results is a lot. I also top coat it with high quality epoxy. Which is applied after the POR15 has completely cured and then been hand scuffed very well.
I also apply it to sand blasted parts. During the process you get a flash rust which you want for correct adhesion on bare metal.
Customers have reported no issues and these are not mall crawlers.
Fluid Film or similar to me should go on top of something like a finished POR15 job if you drive on salt or the beach and be applied as often as needed.
Cheers
Great thread. I've been drinking beer all night, so take this with a grain of "salt". I have one comment and two questions.
1. Comment: When did we start salting the roads in Idaho? I recall as a kid, if you couldn't make it in the snow, you put chains on, got a push, and/or got a ride in a 4WD. I remember guys with Scouts, Blazers, etc. puttng a road grader tube on the front to push cars up hills for the fun of it. Now days people expect the roads to be clear, melted, and raise hell if the plow doesn't clear the road and melt it all the time.
2. Question: How much sheep wax should I get? I'm thinking since Woolwax recommends 1 to 1 1/2 gallons per truck, a 5 gallon bucket would not be overkill? My son has an 04 F250 with a moderately rust frame, and my 17 Ram is clean. I'm thinking we are both going to shutz the bottom side, but need to know how much. Next year he will try to clean the frame, and mine is too clean to need epoxy, so this year just going to use the sheep wax. Constant MgCl 2 being sprayed around Boise. I wonder what they mix in sand in the plow trucks.
3. Not sure what the other question was, but I'll just say when I get my 80 on the road again, I'll POR it first, then epoxy, then sheep wax. Another beer please! 80 is currently down for a head gasket, which turned into a full engine rebuild.
1. Comment: When did we start salting the roads in Idaho? I recall as a kid, if you couldn't make it in the snow, you put chains on, got a push, and/or got a ride in a 4WD. I remember guys with Scouts, Blazers, etc. puttng a road grader tube on the front to push cars up hills for the fun of it. Now days people expect the roads to be clear, melted, and raise hell if the plow doesn't clear the road and melt it all the time.
2. Question: How much sheep wax should I get? I'm thinking since Woolwax recommends 1 to 1 1/2 gallons per truck, a 5 gallon bucket would not be overkill? My son has an 04 F250 with a moderately rust frame, and my 17 Ram is clean. I'm thinking we are both going to shutz the bottom side, but need to know how much. Next year he will try to clean the frame, and mine is too clean to need epoxy, so this year just going to use the sheep wax. Constant MgCl 2 being sprayed around Boise. I wonder what they mix in sand in the plow trucks.
3. Not sure what the other question was, but I'll just say when I get my 80 on the road again, I'll POR it first, then epoxy, then sheep wax. Another beer please! 80 is currently down for a head gasket, which turned into a full engine rebuild.
WarDamnEagle
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I have also had very good results with POR15 but you have to follow their instructions to the letter. You can't paint over rust without first using their rust converter (metal prep) and you can't paint over dirty or flaking anything. It's a lot of work.
Colorado is the same way. Back in the day, they would drop gravel in the tricky spots like hills and intersections, but no salt. Now it's mag chloride on every possible surface. I would rather they leave the roads alone (or just plow) and anybody who can't afford snow tires can just stay home for the day. I grew up in the 90's driving a 4bbl 403ci Olds and a Supra Turbo through the winter and always shake my head when people think they need a suburban, jeep or outback the instant they cross the border into Colorado (these people are invariably from Texas, just sayin'). I put studded truck tires on my Olds and never got stuck, but often got sideways
Well, I just had a sandblasting shop tell me about POR15 the other day. He was raving about it. They do vehicle frames etc, although in order to sandblast properly the vehicle must be pretty much taken apart to avoid issues... So he told me that he coated his trailer in POR15 and that was years ago, he put it right over the rust as a test and they use the trailer constantly... and he said it hasn't cracked or gotten any worse whatsoever. Seems too good to be true in my mind...
At any rate, I might try fluid film first, due to this. This guy does great tests, fairly well regulated. Check out the results:
At any rate, I might try fluid film first, due to this. This guy does great tests, fairly well regulated. Check out the results:
Heckraiser, I know what you mean in Colorado. I commuted Hwy 93 (Rocky Flats) 30 plus years thru Golden and Conifer, I was lucky; they didn’t do much to Hwy 93, it was too windy lol
for me best protection is gear oil mixed with transmission oil and sprayed under car after application drive of road get some dust on the oil and it will not rust
If you are using used fluids I see that as viable. If using new then the price for a gallon of FF would make it a no brainier to just buy FF.
