Is my top beyond repair?

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Sep 17, 2006
Santa Rosa, CA
Here's my top. It's seen a lot of abuse the last 5 years - and it wasn't that good to start with. Is this savable? Or are these cracks too much. I think a bunch of sh*t got stack on it when it was at a shop for a long time.


Yes, I agree, so what do you think? Because I don't know what 'beyond reasonable' looks like. Gozzard makes a new one for $1250 that complete with drip rail and windshield flange. So, there's the definition of reasonable. $1,000 worth of work, top, drip rail, the works.
How is the drip edge? Bent up, rusted? Does it need fiberglass and metal work? If the fiberglass is bad but metal drip edge is still good might offset the cost of a new cap selling the drip edge. But when I say in good shape Is mean good enough shape for someone to reuse.
it looks a little rusty, but essentially okay. But I don't have any experience.




Thanks Brian.
The short answer to your question in the thread title is no.
I see ur from California. I know it’s a big state, that’s both bad a good. The good would be that you could fine a used one in great shape for not a ton of money, the bad is it could be a heck of a long road trip. Good luck!
So, what do I do with the old top? Make a sled out of it? A weird table top? Yard art? I'm assuming it's worthless. I'll post it free on the classifieds and see what happens.
to a fiberglass guy its an easy job.
i've seen people on here repair tops that have had sunroofs cut in them and i've seen people cut two caps up to create one good one.
I’m originally from New England. When I was a kid, after people would update bathrooms, they’d take the old cast iron tubs bury them about half in the dirt in the front lawn. Then they would put a statue of the virgin Mary in it. We called it “Mary in a half shell”. Anyway, maybe that’s an idea for your top! Lol.
Okay, so I decided to rehabilitate the top. I found a good and not too expensive fiberglass and gel-coat guy. So, I separated the top from the drip rail and I wanted to post my process for posterity. Didn't find much on this in search.

My entire drip rail was swimming in some kind of caulk that was in amazingly good shape for how long it's been there. But it made the rivets that were in there hard to deal with, there was no divot to work with.


I tried the drill and gave up. Ended up using the cut off wheel. It allowed me to gently shave the top off. It took me a while to learn to get all the way through the top to the shaft of the rivet.


Most spots the rivets were 4" apart. There was one section in the middle of each side where were about an inch apart. Once I had the tops off, most were easy to drive out with a center punch, a couple required drilling out - which was easy now that I had a clear bit of aluminum to attack.

The caulk was pretty strong, it took a razor blade knife around the edge to break the seal before I could pry it apart with a couple of screw drivers.

Once apart, the underside is not accessible to remove the foam. Note the black spots of mildew on the underside of the foam.



The drip rail looks okay. this is the worst of it.


Now for some wire wheel, straightening a few bent spots, removing a few busted screws, give it a fresh coat of POR15 and paint and I'm hoping it's good to go again.
I don't think your rain gutter looks all that bad. I am in Santa Rosa and just finished rebuilding my top let me know if you want me to swing by and check it out.
Subscribed. Thanks for documenting this.

I have a very early top that needs fiberglass help. Finding a used replacement is impossible as it's not the same dimensions as later tops.
Repair! My favorite threads.
So, had @elroberds was just here. He said he didn't think this reinforcement was original and had been added to support something hanging from the top. Watcha think?


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