Is my block cleaning enough for the gasket (1 Viewer)

[ariff]

Well I spent the afternoon yesterday at the local pick n pull finding as many electrical connectors to replace my broken ones on my harness.. I found all but two so that was a good day.. And I saved some money. When I got home I spent a few hrs cleaning the block surface and pistons.. I think I am pretty close to being done with the cleaning\prep.. I'll be dropping the head off at the machine shop this week to have them work their magic.. What to you guys that have done this before think?
Thanks!

 

[skhochay]

Well I spent the afternoon yesterday at the local pick n pull finding as many electrical connectors to replace my broken ones on my harness.. I found all but two so that was a good day.. And I saved some money. When I got home I spent a few hrs cleaning the block surface and pistons.. I think I am pretty close to being done with the cleaning\prep.. I'll be dropping the head off at the machine shop this week to have them work their magic.. What to you guys that have done this before think?
Thanks!

ya this is not a head, this is a block, block is good , but head is a different story. Because head is made out compose aluminium when you remove it I almost 100% positive it will warp, some pretty bad, to the point that you can't reuse it, so then you need a new one, some not so bad but you need to polish it , In addition on this rigs it is very common that head will have a very small crack on the 3rd cylinder . So my advice . 1. get a new head. 2. pressure test your current and polish it.

 

[ariff]

Oops sorry title fixed.. Yes I know this is a block ;>) Good to know it is looking pretty clean.. Lots of scrubbing with a maroon 3m pad and brass brush. I will have the machine shop check the head for cracks and flatness as well as a valve job..

 

[chap79]

Block looks pretty good. Make sure to get all the old material off near 5 and 6. Hard to tell if it is just discoloration or not. Your fingers will know best.

 

[ariff]

Block looks pretty good. Make sure to get all the old material off near 5 and 6. Hard to tell if it is just discoloration or not. Your fingers will know best.

Yeah it is smooth as glass.. I think the black stuff is corrosion definitely not old gasket material..

 

[toyofan]

awesome job ! that looks 20 times cleaner than when I did mine, and after 100k miles no issues to report

 

[Malleus]

It's just as important that it's flat.

I agree with @chap79; it's more important that it feels smooth, than it is that it looks smooth. The test above will help with that.

How did you keep the trash out of the cylinders, while you were polishing the block?

 

[pgmatt]

I have found if you use a shop vac while cleaning the surface you can get most of it. I like the 3m Roloc bristle discs with a die grinder. They don’t leave much material behind and are to soft to remove metal etc. Yellow or white. This subject is pretty controversial as in theory you should never have anything that can leave contamination behind when cleaning block surface that isn’t disassembled and going to be washed after.

 

[LINUS]

I was taught "If you wouldn't eat off it, it isn't clean enough yet".

Oil & a trueing bar w/ 400g sandpaper to clean stubborn spots, then used a combo of wire brush (SS) & chemicals, final chem was just Windex.

Don't do a trueing bar & sandpaper if you aren't versed is that - it's old domestic V8 building method anyhow. It does pull the rust off the high spots though.

SS brushes are softer than your block, but keep it off the pistons & the bores.

That's what I did to my 1FZ & do to motors following.

 

[ariff]

I strictly used maroon scuff pads by hand and or the more stubborn areas a brass brush. This is the first time I have done something like this and I did not want to screw it up by creating uneven surfaces. I put rags in the cylinder to help keep stuff out of there. I then followed that with a shop vac to suck any debris out of the cylinders. I created a step down adapter on my shop vac to get into the little places. I cleaned the bolt holes out with brake cleaner and a small gun cleaning brush then sucked everything out with my little step down adapter.. I also cleaned the coolant passages with that adapter. Then hit everything with 60psi of compressed air and wiped down with a lint free rag and brake cleaner.. Covered up and will wait for the shop to get the head done. I'll give it another cleaning before installing. I would like to check the block for faltness but I don't have a precision straight edge nor do I know anyone with one.. So I am not sure what to do there. I am thinking about trying to sweet talk the machine shop guy to maybe rent one to me? I don't think a regular ol hardware store level would be precise enough.. Anyone have suggestions?

 

[Malleus]

No, the hardware store variety won't cut it. It needs to be straighter than half the distance allowable in the manual, for the length measured. For instance, if the max allowable is 0.002-in over 2-ft, your straightedge has to be at least 0.001-in/2-ft, or you'll never know it.

You might have luck with the guy who's doing your head. I'd try the sweet talk routine, but don't hold your breath. I wouldn't loan my straightedge out...

 

[ariff]

You might have luck with the guy who's doing your head. I'd try the sweet talk routine, but don't hold your breath. I wouldn't loan my straightedge out...

Nor would I I am hoping he'll rent it out plus he will have my head so I am going to have to come back and get it.. But I would totally understand if he does not want to loan\rent it..

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

@ariff what connectors are you missing?

 

[ariff]

@ariff what connectors are you missing?

My tabs are broken on the IAC (6 way connector) and on the 4 way on the distributor..I was hoping to replace them.. Looks like I can get them new from Mr. T.

 

[BILT4ME]

@2fpower do you know anyone in the TAC that would have a true bar?

 

[ppc]

From a post last month: found the female ends for the TPS and IAC. Anyone know where to find the male connection?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073QY5RX3/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AZ0MQOUK533GU&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FSY5NUY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A1LK2U4Z4PVUFU&psc=1

 

[Malleus]

They're all still available from Mr. T

Sumitomo Connectors

Google "Sumitomo connectors" a long list shows up.

 

[Malleus]

Nor would I I am hoping he'll rent it out plus he will have my head so I am going to have to come back and get it.. But I would totally understand if he does not want to loan\rent it..

Alternately, you can get a steel straightedge (from anywhere) and have it checked at the machine shop. Any granite or steel surface plate will work, as long as it's at least as long as the straightedge. As long as you can't get a 0.001-in feeler gage under it anywhere, you're good. There's no magic in a precision straightedge. It's just been verified to be straight.

 

[2fpower]

@2fpower do you know anyone in the TAC that would have a true bar?

Nope.

 

[half k cruiser]

@ariff If it will make you feel better I can take a look at your setup before you drop the head on it. Or if you need a hand setting the head, cams, and timing I can get you squared away. I usually work for coffee before 1700hrs. After 1700hrs requires beer and cigars. Feel free to PM me.