Is it possible to remove TRE's without destroying them? (1 Viewer)

[elhombre]

As you know, a very common problem. So common, most parts stores sell the entire control arm with with a new tube in the middle and brand new TREs already installed as a complete unit. Not for Toyota, but Ford and other common makes that don't use a rack and pinion steering set up. I would think this is a place that a person could get away with using a little anti-sieze on when reassembling. And use a torque wrench to get the clamp just right.

I've had to remove the entire link, put it in a big vise, and use a big plumbers wrench to get some loose. PB Blaster, and heating up the rusted part are the only other things that helped me. Did you know PB Blaster is flammable?

 

[SNLC]

We use this all the time on all Cruiser models. Works just fine.

Cheers

 

[rolliges]

This is what I’ve used for years without issue

View attachment 2373178

This tool.
Works every time.

 

[too tall]

If you are stuck or don't have time to get one of those tools you can use two hammers of relatively the same weight and swing them together with the female taper between them, hitting them on both sides evenly. The tre's will fall out without any damage. Sometimes difficult given obstructions in the way , but it does work well and never tears the rubber boots.

 

[flintknapper]

We use this all the time on all Cruiser models. Works just fine.

View attachment 2373632View attachment 2373633

Cheers

Yep. Works a number of places.

 

[flintknapper]

If you are stuck or don't have time to get one of those tools you can use two hammers of relatively the same weight and swing them together with the female taper between them, hitting them on both sides evenly. The tre's will fall out without any damage. Sometimes difficult given obstructions in the way , but it does work well and never tears the rubber boots.

^^^^^

This is the #1 thing folks fail to do (back up your hammer strike). They flail the hell out of components with a BFG when a much smaller hammer and a little finesse will usually do it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I've used every method described above.
I've broken more than once of those jaw type separators.
I found the right size Pittman arm separator the most successful when used with rattle gun, and a few blows to the side of the steering atm with a hammer.
My first 80series saw a bit of salt before I owned it. The tierod ends refused to budge with the 2x BFH, pickle fork, and the jaw type (this looked like it would be the goods, but I broke two of them in less than 1hour. Lucky the parts store was close) eventually succeeded with a combo of ball joint separator (slightly too small), heat and percussion.

I also broke an 18" plumbers wrench trying to undo the rod ends from the tie rods from the same vehicle, after using heat there too.