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Typically they put metal girts between the frames and then just do vertical metal siding - like this:
The panels span top to bottom, so it's pretty economical with the girts. The T-111 would be vertical as well, so you could basically do it the same way. You might have to put in more girts depending on the span length of the T-111 you're using.
There are vertical HardiePanels that would also span vertically, so they would be virtually the same:
www.jameshardie.com
Again, you'd have to check the span length and adjust the girts accordingly.
If you mean one of the horizontal HardiePlank or HardieShingle products, then you would need vertical supports for the material to span across horizontally:
www.jameshardie.com
At that point you'd basically have to build a "standard" framed wall (metal or wood stud) between the steel frames for the horizontal siding to attach to - which lessens the economy of the construction. People do this for interior finishes, so it wouldn't be much different to apply the exterior (horizontal) finish to it as well.
The panels span top to bottom, so it's pretty economical with the girts. The T-111 would be vertical as well, so you could basically do it the same way. You might have to put in more girts depending on the span length of the T-111 you're using.
There are vertical HardiePanels that would also span vertically, so they would be virtually the same:
Vertical Fiber Cement Siding | HardiePanel Vertical Siding | James Hardie
Re-siding your house with HardiePanel vertical siding—or combining it with HardiePlank® lap siding—is sure to add visual punch to your design.
Again, you'd have to check the span length and adjust the girts accordingly.
If you mean one of the horizontal HardiePlank or HardieShingle products, then you would need vertical supports for the material to span across horizontally:
Fiber Cement Siding Options | James Hardie
Our diverse and detailed product selection will help you create a historically accurate, architecturally correct and flat-out gorgeous home.
At that point you'd basically have to build a "standard" framed wall (metal or wood stud) between the steel frames for the horizontal siding to attach to - which lessens the economy of the construction. People do this for interior finishes, so it wouldn't be much different to apply the exterior (horizontal) finish to it as well.
The metal girts are the horizontal pieces that span between the "columns" of the building. They're typically z-shaped sheetmetal pieces although I recently found fiberglass ones that would eliminate the thermal bridge.
You might be able to just use the girts and put sheathing on them and then the HardiePlank. I typically spec a rainscreen construction to allow the HardiePlank to dry out better.
You might be able to just use the girts and put sheathing on them and then the HardiePlank. I typically spec a rainscreen construction to allow the HardiePlank to dry out better.
Another option would be an insulated metal panel system. Manufacturers like Metl-Span offer a number of "architectural" panels that could potentially be combined for a look different from the typical "pole barn" siding.
Here is a combination of flat, horizontal, and vertical ribbed panels. But you could just as easily combine them top to bottom as side to side.
Here is a combination of flat, horizontal, and vertical ribbed panels. But you could just as easily combine them top to bottom as side to side.