Not convinced I can support a company whose beta testers were end users. Especially on such a critical component. Failed bushings, poor weld quality and catastrophic failure are just not things I can get on board with, Rev A or Rev 10.
Is it a good idea to replace control arms, bearings, and end links while replacing the ball joints?
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Well that may be a valid point, this being a Land Cruiser forum Toyota makes airbags that can kill you and the first run of 8 speed automatic transmissions in the 200 series weren’t that great.
And I’ve had my share of parts from other manufacturers like ARB differential lockers blowing on the trail and OME nitrocharger shocks crapping out under regular use and shattered add a leafs.
I’m looking to do basically the same thing you are. If I move forward with this I’ll use all Toyota parts. The thing is I’m already at $2500 in parts with shocks, springs, UCAs, LCAs, and tie rod ends
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Exactly. But you'll have a fresh new suspension that'll last a long time. And then you can replace the starter like I'm about to do.
Then the radiator and fan clutch, water pump, belt tensioner, alternator, idler pulley... 
I'm not an expert of what online Toyota parts site to use, but Olathe Toyota Parts Center - https://parts.olathetoyota.com/ has shown me very fair prices. Others here on this site have used it. Today it showed me a $25 lower price on an alternator per another online Toyota discount site.
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For what it's worth, my SPC UCA's have been flawless for the last 3+ years and 60k+ miles. They have never made a sound and I think I've remembered to grease them 1 or 2 times.
For someone lifting a high mileage rig less than 2” and wanting to save some money: I have a set of stock UCAs that I took off a 65k mile ‘16 that I’d send someone for the cost of shipping. They’re just taking up space in the garage at this point. I went to Dobinsons UCA with my lift and have trouble throwing away good usable parts.
Ever seen those same failures on OEM arms pushed the places SPC arms often are? I have
We have sold, installed and run hundreds of UCA's in DD, trail rig, overland app and race 200's over the past decade now. I don't know that there is a single one that is the 'end-all' solution but I'll say that we have likely seen the same or less issues per number sold with SPC than any other. We stock two brands of bushings, Japanese ball-joints, complete OEM and aftermarket arms (OME and SPC, full disclosure) and have installed TC, Icon and Blackhawk too. We've been fortunate to not have had issues with high failure rates of SPC. OME's new options are very nice and we've had zero issues there beyond supply but we still spec the SPC more often than not due to the ability to cheat everything forward and avoid body mount contact more than any other arm. I've run them quite hard on my own 200 for 100k, we'd love to run them on the Canguro 200 in race conditions as the OEM uppers last about 1 race, sometimes less unfortunately.
We stock the SPC arms, replacement bushings and ball-joint assemblies along with the OEM/Aftermarket bushings, ball joints, etc @ Cruiser Outfitters if we can be of help.
What would you consider the quietest longest lasting UCA for a lifted 200? I noticed some loud squeaking from my drivers side ICON delta joint this morning after driving through rain last night and was going to take the cap covers off to grease the delta joint and my damn ICON cap cover screw heads snapped off. I left the other two screws in place for now. I’m pretty sure I’ll have to replace the entire UCA if I want to maintain the cap. Pretty sure the other side will be the same situation. Maybe, I could have new holes tapped into the billet aluminum, not sure any shop around here will do it. I love the ICON UCA because they are super quiet, look cool but now I’m annoyed and may try something different. Any recommendations for the next “best” thing. Also, if I have to replace the UCA, can it be done without taking out the suspension or anything else? I’m currently running 3.0 Stage 6 ICON if that makes any difference on UCA selection.Ever seen those same failures on OEM arms pushed the places SPC arms often are? I have
We have sold, installed and run hundreds of UCA's in DD, trail rig, overland app and race 200's over the past decade now. I don't know that there is a single one that is the 'end-all' solution but I'll say that we have likely seen the same or less issues per number sold with SPC than any other. We stock two brands of bushings, Japanese ball-joints, complete OEM and aftermarket arms (OME and SPC, full disclosure) and have installed TC, Icon and Blackhawk too. We've been fortunate to not have had issues with high failure rates of SPC. OME's new options are very nice and we've had zero issues there beyond supply but we still spec the SPC more often than not due to the ability to cheat everything forward and avoid body mount contact more than any other arm. I've run them quite hard on my own 200 for 100k, we'd love to run them on the Canguro 200 in race conditions as the OEM uppers last about 1 race, sometimes less unfortunately.
We stock the SPC arms, replacement bushings and ball-joint assemblies along with the OEM/Aftermarket bushings, ball joints, etc @ Cruiser Outfitters if we can be of help.
I can’t speak to the different arms, but UCAs can be swapped with everything else staying in place. The only tricky part is disconnecting harness clamps from the inner fender to make room for the very long inner pivot bolt to slide forward enough to get the arm out. Harness clips, unbolt the power steering res and shift it, etc.
If you don't need a lot of caster, the Toyota OEM are the quietest.
Assuming you need the extra caster, all I can suggest is that rubber bushings are quieter than poly bushings. I have a slight chirp at low speed offroad that I attribute to my SPC UCA bushings (which are poly), though I'm not 100% sure that's the chirp. Trail Tailor has a design which has greaseable bushings, so that might help you.
You can replace the UCA without dismantling the suspension. UCA is one long bolt and nut mounting it to the frame, and then the ball joint. Remove the castle nut, pop the balljoint loose, remove the UCA bolt, and they come right out, no need to touch the front springs/shocks. You'll need an alignment when you're done though.
FYI I didn't need to touch the PS reservoir on my 2013. The passenger side came right out. Driver's side I had to remove the battery to get enough clearance, though I've heard that's not required it only adds a few minutes.
I think it may be the same as the battery. Not strictly necessary but it can help make room. Plus it’s only 3 10-mm bolts.