Ironman drop box bracket (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter JcrewLC
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I’d just run the eimkieth RAMs. They’re cheap and are easy to weld on. I’ve run mine for the last year and hit them on… a lot of stuff. I have zero complaints about them
I have installed multiple sets. They fit well, align front lower arms to factory specs and help with caster issues that bushings will not take care of. They also push the front axle forward to help with clearance issues. Other style bolt on mounts attach to the crossmember bolts and have to be removed to remove crossmember. The weld on mounts are made well, I have set on the shelf, IMO they do not drop enough to correct caster and do not properly align suspension geometry on the lower arms. Unless you are doing hardcore rock crawling you should not hit these on anything.
I like them, I like them alot...
Elaborate on how the eimkieth rams dont drop the arms enough
they only drop them about ~1", the Ironman drop them~ 3", If you lift the truck ~3" then the arms need to be lowered the same amount to maintain geometry. The fulcrum needs to swing at the same arc. If you do not drop the arms it still has to go up more before it swings back. The drop radius arms are the same way. They correct caster but do not swing correctly. They have to swing up more to get to the neutral position. Link suspensions like to work best when the arms are flat.
Look at the rear pan hard. Yes you can put an adjustable one on to center the rear axle. They work better when you raise the mounting location to make it more flat. Same way with a control arm or link set up. Look at Jeeps that put on long arm kits, it makes the links flatter so they are not so steep. It works better. It will push up easier if it is flat, rather than having to go up and forward to go up.
Does this make sense?
This shows what I am talking about. These guys drive over cars! If you are hitting your radius arms then your tires are too small!
I understand the mechanics of them. My drop brackets drop the arm a full 2” and forward 1” it’s strange that yours only drops 1”.
Did you miss measure?
I went off memory... I knew they were not the same as the lift I was putting on. OME J springs. I still have them if someone wants them.
Oh yeah. Way to small of a drop for j springs
If you run a 2-3” lift, no
A lift won’t help you fit tires. Trimming and bump stops do.
I run a 3” lift with 37s right now. The eimkieth rams were made for a 2” lift. Totally run the Ironmans
I have the Ironmans and they are great! Took out the castor correcting bushings and put these on instead. Went from about 2" to a little over 3" lift. Truck drives and handles much much better.
- Thread starter
- #15
Did you have to trim on your 3” and 37s setup? What bump stops are you running? Dc shaft needed?
I gutted the front and I run a 3/4” bump stop and a timbren bump stop for a 3rd gen 4runner. I don’t really think the 3/4” bump stop is needed but I was worried I squish the timbren to much. The rear needs the lip taken off of the wheel well and has a 1.5” bump stop. I have a part time kit so I’ve never needed a dc shaft. I’ve run a 2”, 3”, and 4” lift. I had the rams and slee castor plates with the 4” and never got any vibes even in 4wd on the highway. I think it’s very dependent on the car though
