Inverter wireing ? (1 Viewer)

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I installed my 850 watt (1600 surge) inverter today. I was able to install it under the drivers seat, I ran 4G wire along DS and through a empty, rubber plug in the firewall, then to a megafuse holder (100A fuse) that is attatched to the battery enclosure, then a short 4G lead from fuse to batt pos. lead. The Pos lead is ~9' long total. The negative just runs about a foot, from the inverter, to a body ground. 4G wire is rated at 60Amps enclosed/135Amps Chassis.

I also ran a 8G wire next to the 4G for a accessory 12v fuse block, which I also located under the DS seat. To fit both under there I had to move the OEM alarm brain a few inches as well. The inverter has a built in temp switched fan, so I think it should do fine. I went with the 100A fuse at the battery because the inverter has dual 50A blade fuses.

Did a quick test by running a small shop vac for a minute, and it worked just fine. We'll see how it holds up.
 
firetruck41 said:
4G wire is rated at 60Amps enclosed/135Amps Chassis.

.

I don't understand what this means. Can you explain?
 
mobi-arc said:
I don't understand what this means. Can you explain?
Only what my web research said with minor variations, from several different 12V websites. It means I believe that I will not burn up my car, of course, I could be wrong.
 
The only issue i've ever found with not battery grounding an inverter was the feedback through the stereo based on RPM when the inverter was turned on.

If you don't hear anything high pitched, this won't be an issue for you, but I can hear dog whistles.
 
Quick hijack of this old thread: Can anyone tell me if there is any reason to ground my inverter if I am running a 1/0 pos/neg wire straight from the battery to the inverter? Mine has a ground nut that is just begging for a wire ring but didn't know if there was any good reason to do it. I don't see the need since I am coming straight from the battery.
 
Quick hijack of this old thread: Can anyone tell me if there is any reason to ground my inverter if I am running a 1/0 pos/neg wire straight from the battery to the inverter? Mine has a ground nut that is just begging for a wire ring but didn't know if there was any good reason to do it. I don't see the need since I am coming straight from the battery.
If I read your post correctly, you are running 1/0 gauge wires (+ & -) from inverter to battery. If this is correct and the wiring has sound crimps on the terminals, you've satisfied the power and ground requirements. Take a good ohmmeter and measure the resistance between this "ground nut" and your negative post on your inverter. It should read zero ohms. If so, you can use it to ground other equipment or ground what the inverter is mounted to. The best grounding rule to remember on a rig is to keep ALL your grounds at the same potential - or the same reading with an ohmmeter. Checking between ground points and straps should read zero ohms. WORST case still needs to be way less than an ohm. Bad grounds and ground loops are responsible for most of the difficult to diagnose problems in automotive electronics. Vibration, over time (loosening connections) and corrosion are an electrical gound's worst enemies. And even more critical on a rig that's used off road. Traveling through mud and washboard roads and a much more hostile environment than your Mom's daily driver or grocery getter.
 
Thanks a lot. Exactly what I needed to know. Great info on checking with the ohmmeter. Makes perfect sense.
 

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