Intro to my modified '00 LX470 and questions on steering parts purchase (1 Viewer)

[ajinreno]

Hi all...bought a modified '00 about 6 months ago and have had a blast with it so far. I have a couple questions on replacements parts below the pics...

So just put on some new tires, Milestar Patagonia, but they couldn't do an alignment saying it needs new tie rod ends and ball joints. However, it also has a very slow steering rack leak...I think. I don't see it leaking, but a boot tore and a bunch of fluid poured out which I'm guessing just built up over time. I haven't noticed my steering fluid going down since that happened though, so not 100% sure. Either way, I want to keep this rig in tip top shape as I tend to drive it daily, even though I have a DD. So I'm thinking of replacing the steering rack as well.

I found really good prices at McGeorge Toyota, so have the following in my cart:
Steering Rack - $475.71 - Rack And Pinion Assembly - Toyota (44250-60050) | Toyota Parts
Outer Tie Rod Right - $59.40 - Outer Tie Rod - Toyota (45046-69195) | Toyota Parts
Outer Tie Rod Left - $59.40 - Outer Tie Rod - Toyota (45047-69100) | Toyota Parts

Do I need to purchase anything else? The ball joint is part of the tie rod end, correct?

Another naive suspension question. The truck came with the following:
OME 303001 Front Torsion bars
Slee S0F2RH 2.5" Rear Heavy Springs
Front Shocks Ironman Foam Cell Pro (45795FE)
Rear Shocks Ironman Foam Cell Pro (45796FE)
Slee Off Road Diff Drop
Rear Sway Bar Extended 2"

Is there anything else I should do to improve on this while I have the purse strings open? Do Upper Control Arms gain me anything? I'm really naive about suspension and what benefits there are to upgrades.

 

[MongooseGA]

Welcome. Good looking truck.

Yes, the BJs will come on the outer tie rods. The rack with include the inners. I don't believe there's anything else to buy, but maybe a gasket? And fluid, for sure.

If you haven't already, try a search at the top right of the page for steering rack replacement. There are a few really good threads that go over the DIY procdure. Even if you're not doing it yourself (I didn't notice if you mentioned), it should specify anything else needed for the swap.

The previous owner used good parts. I'd consider making sure all of your fluids are baselined and change your heater Ts if not already done.

Upper control arms will give you the ability to get some extra alignment adjustment (over about 2-2.25" lift I think?) and possibly extra droop, depending on which ones you buy. They run like $5-800, so depending on how you're wheeling, it may or may not be worth it.

What else you may look at is also going to depend on you. You can get adjustable control arms for the rear (upper and lower) from one or two vendors. They'll give some extra flex in the rear and center your axle now that it's lifted. You likely have lots of old and worn bushings. Getting those replaced will transform the truck. Do a search on torsion bar strengthening brackets, cheap insurance.

Over all, I'd run what you've got for a while (it's already pretty capable) and see where you'd like improvement. You may find it's perfect for your uses, or you may find that you like doing more technical rides that would require more upgraded parts.

 

[ajinreno]

Thanks for the reply, that helps. I'll look into the rear control arms and torsion bar strengthening.

 

[Tstx92]

Hang on a second here. Yes, there is a "ball joint" on the outer tie rod end, however, if the alignment shop specified that you need both tie rods and ball joints, they are probably talking about different components. In addition to the tie rods, there is a ball joint on each front control arm. One upper and one lower. You can source the ball joints from cruiser outfitters, or you can buy new control arms. If money is an issue, as it was for me, just order upper and lower ball joints, rent a ball joint press, and replace them. If money is tight, or if you have reason to believe that your control arm bushings are on their way out, you could justify buying new control arms which will come with new bushings and ball joints already pressed in.

All this being said, if yuou're going to be doing all this work, including ball joints, and you've got the cash and desire to keep building the truck, now is the time to do UCAs.

 

[ajinreno]

Thanks for point that out @Tstx92 and you are correct. I checked their paperwork and they specified the lower front right ball joint as bad. I'm assuming I should replace BJs on both sides and see some Sankei 555 lower BJs on ebay - New 98-07 Toyota Land Cruiser LX470 Sankei 555 Lower Ball Joint, Set of 2 | eBay

I think I might do the Freedom Offroad UCAs as well.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks for point that out @Tstx92 and you are correct. I checked their paperwork and they specified the lower front right ball joint as bad. I'm assuming I should replace BJs on both sides and see some Sankei 555 lower BJs on ebay - New 98-07 Toyota Land Cruiser LX470 Sankei 555 Lower Ball Joint, Set of 2 | eBay

I think I might do the Freedom Offroad UCAs as well.

Ok so first thing... Call Kurt at @cruiseroutfit (cruiserteq.com) and talk with the guys there and they can set you up with everything you need instead of piecemealing from here and there.
Second thing.... test the front end on your own to see if the ball joints are bad. Couple different ways you can do this but easiest is to jack the front end up (with tire still on) to the point where the wheel is just off the ground, place a big pry bar under the tire and rock/lift the wheel and watch the ball joints. You will be able to quickly determine if yours are bad or not. From what I have gathered on here the lowers aren't too bad to replace but the uppers are a bear, but all are doable.

For the TREs, well kinda hard to test those but you can try by pulling the wheel off when you have it up in the air and then grabbing the outer TRE and see if you can rock things back/forth (in/out) and hear or see movement. Depending on the shop that you took it too, they could be trying to empty your wallet for you. There aren't a whole lotta shops that I trust in the Reno area. I am pretty sure we met at one of the local club meetings (think it was December).

 

[OwnerCS]

A number of people on here replace the pressure and return line assembly with SUNSONG 3401246. Present company included.

It is a nice looking set. If you do replace lines and remove the high pressure line at the power steering pump, remove the switch first, before you try to remove the banjo bolt. The switch is plastic and easily broken.

More Information for SUNSONG 3401246

www.rockauto.com