Intro New Member LJ73 (1 Viewer)

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I will change my records to the first generation 2LT engine


You should be able to use some parts from other members of its family like the L 2L 3L and 5L. These are non turbo but will share filter , belts, pumps etc. And they used them in other Toyota models like the Hilux, Crown, Dyna and a few others.
 
Nice rig!
Mechanical diesel pump
4,88 gears with LSD (rear)
R151F trans

2LT works fine, but take care about the head and always check the temp, maybe a blue (fan clutch hub) mod, or add a front pusher fan
 
You should be able to use some parts from other members of its family like the L 2L 3L and 5L. These are non turbo but will share filter , belts, pumps etc. And they used them in other Toyota models like the Hilux, Crown, Dyna and a few others.
Good deal - should help finding parts availability and price... Perhaps
 
Nice rig!
Mechanical diesel pump
4,88 gears with LSD (rear)
R151F trans

2LT works fine, but take care about the head and always check the temp, maybe a blue (fan clutch hub) mod, or add a front pusher fan

Thanks - I've read about installing exhaust temp gauge would / could be a good investment to monitor temps at critical points to avoid dreaded overheating on these diesels. Any thoughts or experience with that approach?
 
Thanks - I've read about installing exhaust temp gauge would / could be a good investment to monitor temps at critical points to avoid dreaded overheating on these diesels. Any thoughts or experience with that approach?

EGT is a good gauge for ALL diesel land cruisers. Lots of options from analog standard gauges, to digital to full screen monitoring via LCD screens.

for a 2LT, I would get an aftermarket water temp gauge on there as well. The factory temp gauge is more like a vague indication about what the temperature is doing rather than actual temps.
by the time the factory temp gauge spikes, it’s Probabaly too late.
Has the coolant been changed on this? Sometimes warmer weather climate cruisers only have water (usually just South America) but you never know.

I would flush the coolant, install a water temp gauge, rebuild or get a new fan clutch and make sure all hoses are in good shape.
I used Auber digital guages for EGT/Boost. Cheap, work well and you can set visual/audible alarms. Plus they kind of match late 80s early 90s design.
 
Hello,

You got yourself a keeper.

Nice truck. Its color is great.

73 Series are great grocery/stuff haulers. They are also nimble off-road.

I assume you baselined the truck by replacing fluids, filters and belts.

As for the engine, aside from what is mentioned above, a simple but important piece of advice. After running the truck at high speed/rpms for a prolonged period, let the engine idle for a few minutes in order to cool down.

Welcome to the madness.





Juan
 
EGT is a good gauge for ALL diesel land cruisers. Lots of options from analog standard gauges, to digital to full screen monitoring via LCD screens.

for a 2LT, I would get an aftermarket water temp gauge on there as well. The factory temp gauge is more like a vague indication about what the temperature is doing rather than actual temps.
by the time the factory temp gauge spikes, it’s Probabaly too late.
Has the coolant been changed on this? Sometimes warmer weather climate cruisers only have water (usually just South America) but you never know.

I would flush the coolant, install a water temp gauge, rebuild or get a new fan clutch and make sure all hoses are in good shape.
I used Auber digital guages for EGT/Boost. Cheap, work well and you can set visual/audible alarms. Plus they kind of match late 80s early 90s design.

Very good - yes I had Pedersen Toyota in Ft Collins go thru the cooling system with flush and new coolant per local conditions. Also they checked all hoses. I'll get going on the gauges and check out the fan clutch - Thank you for the recommendations
 
Hello,

You got yourself a keeper.

Nice truck. Its color is great.

73 Series are great grocery/stuff haulers. They are also nimble off-road.

I assume you baselined the truck by replacing fluids, filters and belts.

As for the engine, aside from what is mentioned above, a simple but important piece of advice. After running the truck at high speed/rpms for a prolonged period, let the engine idle for a few minutes in order to cool down.

Welcome to the madness.





Juan
Hi Juan - Thanks and agree, in fact I'm kinda fanatical about start-up / warm-up and letting engine and turbo cool down (oil circulate) before shutting down. I usually take two to three times the recommend time for both start and finish. Drives my wife crazy when she goes along - oh well. Gotta do what we gotta do to keep the baby going! Yes, did all fluid and filter baseline as soon as it arrived. Belts and hoses arrived in good condition.
 
If you are running synthetic oil, or semi-synthetic you don’t have to do long cool downs or start ups. That was older school of thought when oils would coke up and cause issues if not allowed to cool down a little bit.

however, you don’t want to come right off the highway, still pushing high EGTs and shut the rig off. I drive a 2 lane everyday 65mph for ~9 miles. I have 1.5 miles of dirt road to my house, and work is 1 mile of slow speeds. By the time I get to my house or work I’m usually at 400F or below.

my rig has an ARB turbo timer so it shuts down after 1 minute after I turn the key off. I can change that to 3 or 5 minutes Which helps cool down more. That should be plenty with today’s oil, especially me running semi-synthetic. Pull my key and walk away, always get plenty of looks :cool:

I’m not a big proponent of long warmups either. Mine really doesn’t warm up if let to idle for a long time and I don’t have any emissions from the factory. For a diesel like the 2LT with an EGR setup, I absolutely wouldn’t let it idle very much. They plug up and bad things happen.
even in below zero, the most I would warmup was 3-4 minutes Then just drive lower RPMs for a few miles until everything was flowing good.

if temp is above freezing, wait for pressure to build up and you are good to go within a few moments. Again not racing or flogging on it.
 
If you are running synthetic oil, or semi-synthetic you don’t have to do long cool downs or start ups. That was older school of thought when oils would coke up and cause issues if not allowed to cool down a little bit.

however, you don’t want to come right off the highway, still pushing high EGTs and shut the rig off. I drive a 2 lane everyday 65mph for ~9 miles. I have 1.5 miles of dirt road to my house, and work is 1 mile of slow speeds. By the time I get to my house or work I’m usually at 400F or below.

my rig has an ARB turbo timer so it shuts down after 1 minute after I turn the key off. I can change that to 3 or 5 minutes Which helps cool down more. That should be plenty with today’s oil, especially me running semi-synthetic. Pull my key and walk away, always get plenty of looks :cool:

I’m not a big proponent of long warmups either. Mine really doesn’t warm up if let to idle for a long time and I don’t have any emissions from the factory. For a diesel like the 2LT with an EGR setup, I absolutely wouldn’t let it idle very much. They plug up and bad things happen.
even in below zero, the most I would warmup was 3-4 minutes Then just drive lower RPMs for a few miles until everything was flowing good.

if temp is above freezing, wait for pressure to build up and you are good to go within a few moments. Again not racing or flogging on it.

Good to hear - I was always worried about taking care of the Turbo. The sticker Toyota placed on the dash in front of the passenger seat says a 90 to 120 sec cool down. This is my first diesel and first turbo so in a learning curve - Thank you
 

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