Internal hub damage and dust cover seal (1 Viewer)

[MurderBird45]

Learned scholars- redoing my knuckles yesterday (for the second time in 3 weeks, due to a badly seated inner axle seal) I noticed that the rubber gasket on the 3 week old dust cover seal was completely shredded. Upon inspection, I found that the inner side of the hub was pretty gouged up where it seats on the seal. It looks like a rock got caught between the hub and knuckle and tore things up pretty good. I also noticed that hub was out of round (e.g. no longer circular) where I installed the inner hub gasket behind the inner wheel bearing.

I dug the older dust cover seals out of the scrap pile and noticed that there was no rubber gasket left in them whatsoever. That means the damage was there prior to my first knuckle job and I failed to notice it. I didn’t really notice any problems with the knuckles before the first rebuild, they were just old and I wanted to do the job to learn about the construction of the axle. Point being- they seeemed to be working fine without any rubber on the dust seal.

Now to my question- what does the rubber gasket do? It doesn’t have anything to do with the CV grease staying in place because the spindle gasket has that pretty well taken care of. It also doesn’t seem to keep the wheel bearing grease in place either because the inner hub seal does that.

Also, how critical is replacing the hub if it continues to shred the dust seal gasket? I Dremeled down any burrs in hopes that it would save the gasket. The car rides smoothly at all speeds. What other problems could it cause.

Hopefully these pictures give you a good idea of what I’m talking about.

1. Newly shredded seal.

2. 28 year old seal with no rubber.

3. Damaged hub.

4. Part number for reference

 

[MurderBird45]

Here’s another picture for context of where the hub damage is.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

That hub diameter is really chowdered up. The dust seal is protecting the grease seal on the inner wheel bearing, it's an extra level that acts like a labyrinth to keep the bearing seal from seeing direct dust and grit.

What was being beaten on that hub to cause that damage, it looks like it was struck with a hammer. The burrs can be stoned off though.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I agree you could clean up the hub. Remove burrs so the bearing seal seats properly.
And use some emery cloth to smooth out the surface on outer diameter of the hub for the shredded seal to run.

If your 80 isn't going to see mud or creek crossings, the shredded seal is probably superfluous. If you take it in the mud and creeks etc, then it's an added level of protection to help keep water out of hubs and bearings.

Ideally, change out the damaged hub.

 

[MurderBird45]

That hub diameter is really chowdered up. The dust seal is protecting the grease seal on the inner wheel bearing, it's an extra level that acts like a labyrinth to keep the bearing seal from seeing direct dust and grit.

What was being beaten on that hub to cause that damage, it looks like it was struck with a hammer. The burrs can be stoned off though.

Wasn’t me! I swear! But really- I used a seal driver and tapped around with a brass hammer to get it flush. Nothing traumatic. I’m the 3rd owner and the maintenance records indicate 3 bearing repacks before it got to me.

Anyway- I got it pretty smooth with a rotary tool. Thanks for the insight!

 

[MurderBird45]

I agree you could clean up the hub. Remove burrs so the bearing seal seats properly.
And use some emery cloth to smooth out the surface on outer diameter of the hub for the shredded seal to run.

If your 80 isn't going to see mud or creek crossings, the shredded seal is probably superfluous. If you take it in the mud and creeks etc, then it's an added level of protection to help keep water out of hubs and bearings.

Ideally, change out the damaged hub.

I’m in the “ideal” camp. Partsouq has them at a reasonable price. I’ve maxed out my cruiser budget for the month, so I’ll be making the purchase when I get my next paycheck.

HUB SUB-ASSY FR AXL​

Part number: 4350269046​

Can anyone confirm that’s the correct part? Looks like it comes with wheel bearings. What about races? I think I could use some double nuts to extract the flange studs from my old hub. Any other parts that might be required?

 

[Rusty Marlin]

According to a google search its the right part number.
If it comes with the bearings, the races may be pre installed, or they could come in the box with the bearing. Either way it should come with the races.
I avoid rotary tools when deburring seal surfaces, its very easy to create a non-round condition. A set of stones would be a good investment.
Something like this

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

They are available in all manner of shapes, grits, a couple different lengths. I have a tool drawer full of them, picked them up at yard sales and from retired machinists mostly.

 

[Kernal]

Look closely at the hub in the photo (click twice), the race is already installed.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I’m in the “ideal” camp. Partsouq has them at a reasonable price. I’ve maxed out my cruiser budget for the month, so I’ll be making the purchase when I get my next paycheck.

HUB SUB-ASSY FR AXL​

Part number: 4350269046​

Can anyone confirm that’s the correct part? Looks like it comes with wheel bearings. What about races? I think I could use some double nuts to extract the flange studs from my old hub. Any other parts that might be required?

New studs are less than $1 each

 

[Darne]

You could have a machine shop lathe turn the seal surface on the hub back to true.

 

[MurderBird45]

Closing the loop here. I received a new hub from PartSouq last week and installed on Friday. Fortunately, de burring of the bent hub saved the dust oil seal behind it and I did not have to replace it. New hub is so fresh and smooth! Oil seal went right in.

Replacing the hub was easy. Writing out here for anyone as nervous as me.

1. Break lug nuts loose.
2. Jack up and jackstand truck.
3. Remove wheel.
4. Remove dust cap
5. Remove c clip
6. Remove 6 12mm flange nuts, associated washers and cone washers (using your preferred technique- I used a brass drift to pop them out and then channel lock pliers to remove. I had new hardware for the new hub so I wasn’t too careful here.)
6. Remove locking nut, star washer, and hub nut.
7. Remove hub/brake disc from wheel spindle.
8. With hub and brake disc on the bench remove 6 17mm bolts and then use flat head screw driver to separate hub from disc.
9. Place new hub on disc and torque the 6 17mm bolts to 54 foot pounds.
10. Install flange studs into hub by doubling up flange nuts and driving them in till threads are flush with the hub.
11. Install bearings and seals (races were already installed) and reassemble in reverse order according to your favorite axle rebuild YouTube video or informational poster.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Easy peezy lemon squeeze.