Intermittent ABS, VSC Trac, VSC OFF lights (1 Viewer)

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Feb 19, 2008
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Location
Louisville, CO
Just purchased a 2007 X470 140k miles. I have intermittent ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, lights pop up with codes of C1223, C1246, C1249. We are not seeing any wheel sensor codes being thrown. No brake light warning. Lights clear once ignition is turned off/on. Performed the ignition off, 40 brake pump test several times and it usually pressurizes by 28 seconds (no longer than that). No squeal heard on the master brake pump test. Has anyone seen this prior to a brake failure (or seen this in general and have ideas)? Thank you
 
I had this on my 2004 LC a couple of years back and it has now evolved into a full blown problem with lights on and alarm sounding almost permanently, after gradually having escalated from being infrequent and temporary.
I am researching the issue as the error codes have not pinpointed it. It looks like ABS control module or MC issue??
 
This is not what I want to see. My guess is water intrusion. I’m hoping that’s not the issue with mine as well. I’ll likely take it in next week and pay big money to see what’s going on. It’s beyond my scope of troubleshooting. I also just discovered a tilt issue in the steering column. Code b2610.
 
My son's 2000 LC (290,000) had similar codes in the past few weeks: 1223, 1246. What was scary was that the VSC Trac light and alarm would come on when rounding certain sweeping turns, and sometimes a wheel would lock up and suddenly throw the LC toward one side or the other. They would turn off when the steering wheel straightened out. We put on new wheel sensors, no change. Then installed new sway bar bushings and links, no change. Then we put on new steering rack bushings, and the alarm and lights and scary brake lock have disappeared. We followed the Youtube instructions of Chowcares. Nolathane bushing parts were used ($30-35 on ebay). The two small driver's side bushings on our LC were so bad that they just fell out, hardly any rubber was left on them. The new bushings can be installed with the rack still in the car, but the job is tricky. If you do it, see my comments on the job on the Chowcares video and they will save you much angst. For some reason, the rack needs to be tight for the trac system to work properly.
 
My ABS, VSC Trac and VSC OFF lights have come on several times in the past few days. No codes though. Where do I go from here?
 
I am very surprised you have no codes. Toyota/Lexus are great at providing you codes to go down many rabbit holes. It seems my issue has been resolved with a new skid ECU computer. This was after chasing down a brake open circuit switch and 2 replacements of the switch. No wheel sensor issues or other items. It was helpful having a lx470 of the same gen to help troubleshoot.
 
I've been chasing down a similar issue, with mine I'd occasionally have a wheel lock up when setting off. Luckily its never happened while at speed. I've replaced wheel bearings, steering rack bushings, and sway bar bushings. I guess all I have left is the wheel speed sensors
 
I am very surprised you have no codes. Toyota/Lexus are great at providing you codes to go down many rabbit holes. It seems my issue has been resolved with a new skid ECU computer. This was after chasing down a brake open circuit switch and 2 replacements of the switch. No wheel sensor issues or other items. It was helpful having a lx470 of the same gen to help troubleshoot.
Where did you get your new ECU? I see remanufactured ones on eBay for around $1,100.
 
Where did you get your new ECU? I see remanufactured ones on eBay for around $1,100.
I spent big bucks and actually paid to have a 1 year warranty on the work and took it to Lexus. I assumed it might have been the skid ECU but also saw remanufactured for about the same price and no warranty whatsoever. Had some damn good mechanics struggle with it after so much troubleshooting and decided to go the warranty route. I was very thorough with Lexus sharing all the the troubleshooting and codes to let them know I was willing to pay but was also not willing to be taken advantage of by throwing parts at it to see what worked.

I would not go there (ecu) unless you have codes. Also note… when I unplugged the skid ECU and back in again, it took a couple of days or over 100 miles to get the lights to come back in again. Just my experience. Had my hopes up several times only to get squashed.

My consistent codes were 1223 and 1249.
 
I have a '98 that will occasionally toss up a 1249. Now, 98's have none of that other alphabet soup, so my troubleshooting consisted of finding out that a frayed brake light wire might be the issue, and promptly ignoring the issue and just clearing the code when it comes up in favor of working on other things.

So I bring this up because I wonder if something that little could be causing these additional codes in newer models, and also I wonder if I should care about this code more than I do...
 
I have a '98 that will occasionally toss up a 1249. Now, 98's have none of that other alphabet soup, so my troubleshooting consisted of finding out that a frayed brake light wire might be the issue, and promptly ignoring the issue and just clearing the code when it comes up in favor of working on other things.

So I bring this up because I wonder if something that little could be causing these additional codes in newer models, and also I wonder if I should care about this code more than I do...
We also went down the rear brake light rabbit hole on mine. 2007 brakes are different than 2005 (tailgate vs quarter panel brake light combos), wished I would have figured out the differences before we went investigating (thought we had a cut or short in the wiring). Finally determined it was normal and swapped out quarter panel lights (LEDs vs non-LEDs) from the 05 to 07 and the 07 threw the codes within 1 mile with the non-LEDs. We really thought we had defective LEDs on the 07 but we were wrong.
 
I spent big bucks and actually paid to have a 1 year warranty on the work and took it to Lexus. I assumed it might have been the skid ECU but also saw remanufactured for about the same price and no warranty whatsoever. Had some damn good mechanics struggle with it after so much troubleshooting and decided to go the warranty route. I was very thorough with Lexus sharing all the the troubleshooting and codes to let them know I was willing to pay but was also not willing to be taken advantage of by throwing parts at it to see what worked.

I would not go there (ecu) unless you have codes. Also note… when I unplugged the skid ECU and back in again, it took a couple of days or over 100 miles to get the lights to come back in again. Just my experience. Had my hopes up several times only to get squashed.

My consistent codes were 1223 and 1249.
I have an appointment with my mechanic. I just don’t feel capable enough to sort this out myself. I wish I did. Hopefully it will be something simple. Even if it’s not, I can’t complain. I had my LC for six years now. Plenty of repairs along the way which is to be expected with an 18 year old vehicle. Still the best one I’ve ever owned. Thanks for your help.
 
I’m having a nightmare with this!
Since the intermittent fault became continuous I have left it with our local garage to fix. After sometime (months!) I collected the car this week, the ABS pump, accumulator and master cylinder have been replaced with a refurbished unit as well as an overhaul of the brakes, and within 30 minutes of getting it home the same fault occurred!! All the lights and the piercing alarm.
The fault code indicates the ABS accumulator but that has been replaced.
I’m getting a desperate now as already down £1,700 on this and no sign of progress. Does anyone have any further suggestions?
 
Don't do anything - my lights came on - i changed gas cap and it fixed it. Then it came back again. The emissions guy cleared the codes and told me to add about 40 miles and come back hopping they didn't come on before it would pass. That worked. But lights back on.

As far as the actual truck performance, etc. - no difference and its been about 5K miles or more with a couple of long (8 hour) trips.
 
Don't do anything - my lights came on - i changed gas cap and it fixed it. Then it came back again. The emissions guy cleared the codes and told me to add about 40 miles and come back hopping they didn't come on before it would pass. That worked. But lights back on.

As far as the actual truck performance, etc. - no difference and its been about 5K miles or more with a couple of long (8 hour) trips.
I'm in a similar situation, CEL, VSC and Trac Off lights come on and off at about 30-40 mile intervals over the last few weeks. I too change the gas cap and lights went off for about 40 miles then back on again. I'm seeing no adverse effect of engine performance and wouldn't know anything was wrong if the lights didn't come on. Lights are currently off so will wait and see.

Have your lights been coming on and off over those 5K miles or just staying on?
 
I'm having a similar issue with 2003 LC (250k) that I just bought. On my first drive after delivery, I went to enter interstate and experienced a strong uncommanded left pull that was startling, but I dismissed as my imagination or me not paying attention to where I was going. The pull ceased and I finished the drive uneventfully. Then, on the next day, CEL, VSC, and Trac Off lights illuminated just a few miles from home. I turned around and returned to home uneventfully. Now looking for info before possibly taking into a mechanic.
 
I'm having a similar issue with 2003 LC (250k) that I just bought. On my first drive after delivery, I went to enter interstate and experienced a strong uncommanded left pull that was startling, but I dismissed as my imagination or me not paying attention to where I was going. The pull ceased and I finished the drive uneventfully. Then, on the next day, CEL, VSC, and Trac Off lights illuminated just a few miles from home. I turned around and returned to home uneventfully. Now looking for info before possibly taking into a mechanic.
My lights, the three you mentioned, came and went intermittently with no noticeable deficiencies or abnormal engine performance. I did change the gas cap for a new OEM one and the lights went out immediately thereafter but then came on again after about 30-40 miles. The lights have now been off for about a week or so but I don't drive much, it's only been about 60 miles. You might want to check your fuses, apparently there's a 10 amp fuse (I forget which one) that could throw these lights. I'm going to wait and see and probably won't do anything as long as engine performance is normal.
 
I'm having a similar issue with 2003 LC (250k) that I just bought. On my first drive after delivery, I went to enter interstate and experienced a strong uncommanded left pull that was startling, but I dismissed as my imagination or me not paying attention to where I was going. The pull ceased and I finished the drive uneventfully. Then, on the next day, CEL, VSC, and Trac Off lights illuminated just a few miles from home. I turned around and returned to home uneventfully. Now looking for info before possibly taking into a mechanic.
It wasn't your imagination. If you search the forum you'll find a lot of information. It was likely accompanied by illumination of the squiggly line light and some beeps. I'm guessing it happened while you were in a turn? It very common at your mileage, and its most likely the steering rack bushings. The rack is shifting because the bushings are shot, and the truck recognizes a mismatch between the steering wheel and yaw generated, and it thinks you are skidding, so its trying to help (which is no help...).
 
Nailed it. I was accelerating downhill on ramp with a slight left fairly gradual curve. I did not notice any lights, but definitely no alarm. Thanks for the info!
It wasn't your imagination. If you search the forum you'll find a lot of information. It was likely accompanied by illumination of the squiggly line light and some beeps. I'm guessing it happened while you were in a turn? It very common at your mileage, and its most likely the steering rack bushings. The rack is shifting because the bushings are shot, and the truck recognizes a mismatch between the steering wheel and yaw generated, and it thinks you are skidding, so its trying to help (which is no help...).
 

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