Installing my first carb (weber)

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Pantingfish

Pantingfish

Joined
Apr 18, 2017
Messages
179
Location
Richmond VA
So this is somewhat of a long story. FJ60 83 Cruiser was having issues running, shop told me I need to either have my (asin OEM carb) rebuilt or have a new carb put on. At the time I read around on here a bit and decided to have the carb rebuilt by them the shop. Worked great, drove it everyday for about 4 weeks then more issues running started to occur. I called that shop and right away they told me I needed a new carb, I wanted a second opinion so I had it towed to a different shop who looked at it and also told me I need a new carb. (they quoted me $1200 to put on a new carb) So today I had towed back to my place and ordered a 38/38 Weber Carb Kit, and a Factory Air Cleaner Adapter. (I plan on ordering a fuel regulator also any suggestions?) I searched around here for install advice and only really found tuning info. I have a few questions here that I could not get clear answers on.

1. Do I need a fuel regulator? If so where is the best place in the fuel line to install it?

2. I believe the kit comes with linkage adapters but my old linkage should work correct? The shop that quoted me $1200 was talking about how they were going to have to put in new gas pedal.

3. Is it really as easy as just taking the old carb off, connecting fuel line and linkage (and then tune it)
Will my manual choke still work?

4. Do I still need all those vacuum lines? I was planning on maybe leaving all of the vaccum lines still in there incase I ever for some reason come across an OEM carb.

5. Is it true that my AC will not work properly now?

WHew that was a lot, Thank you so much in advance you guys.
 
First, always come here and ask questions before you ever go to a shop.

Second, I’m not a fan of the Webber carb. Cancel the order or send it back. Some guys use them and say they are fine, but there’s no substitute for the AISIN carb.

Jim C will rebuild your carb for around $375.00 (give/take) I think. Do it, and you’ll have a carb that will go another 35 years.

After you’ve done that... if you are still having performance issues, it isn’t carb related. My guess is that you probably have a vacuum leak around the manifold somewhere, but without hearing more details about what you’re experiencing, it’s hard to know.

Now, with the money I just saved you... buy an FSM and a cheap set of starter tools (you don’t need many for this truck). Learn to wrench just a little bit. Seriously, it’s one of the joys of owning any classic vehicle. I promise, we can walk you through this repair quickly, and for far less money than the shop is quoting you.
 
Listen to @CaptClose s advice
My advice is never take your cruiser to a shop that doesn't specifically work on these trucks. If you do (and you did) you'll get bum advice almost every time.
DONT swap in a Weber carb unless you want to swap back in your Aisin after you find out that the Weber is a downgrade. Get the carb rebuilt by someone who specializes in these carbs as mentioned above. There's plenty of guys who've done the 3 step shuffle: Aisin → Weber → back to Aisin. Make sure the fuel filter is clean. Make sure the fuel pump isn't 20 years old.
 
Hey, thanks for all the advice. I guess I should give some backstory. Fuel pump has been replaced with a brand new OEM, OEM fuel filter/air filter, valves adjusted, vaccum lines were all redone by myself, new soft fuel lines, new canister. All that was done and I was driving the truck everyday for about three weeks then about a half mile from home it started stumbling then would die, I could sorta kkeep it alive by babying the throttle. It would start and idle all day long, had it stitting still idling for 30 minutes but once you drive it for about 30 feet it'll cut off and want to die. The shop that "rebuilt" the carb does specialize is 80s landcruisers, and the second shop I took it too only works on foreign cars made before 1990. But this second shop that looked at it said the carb does not really look rebuilt, he said they probably just bought a rebuilt kit online that only contained gaskets. The one thing I do want to do first here is take out and clean the idle control solenoid, that is one thing I have not done, is that piece hard to take off? Can I take it off with the carb still mounted? I read a bunch on here about weber carbs and it seems very divided, some say it's great and they love it, others say they hate it. Thanks again you guys
 
So I drove it back tonight from the shop, and stayed in first gear the entire time and it didn't want to die or stall. But after I shift into second and get going then it dies, don't know if that means anything, I'm going to check out the idle control solenoid tomorrow. I sent Jim C a message, but from what i read it could take awhile for him to respond he sounds busy, thanks
 
Have you pulled the fuel line off the carb, cranked engine, and checked fuel flow? When running, fuel level in middle of sight glass? Smogged or desmogged? Can you put it in first while idling, ease out the clutch without pushing the gas, and get it to go? Compression test after valve adjust, verified vacuum routing?

If you can drive in first fine, that seems to rule out ICS for the most part. Unless the wrong vacuum line is hooked to the decel diaghragm then you could theorize some odd behavior. Seems like the primary slow circuit is fine, if it is a carb problem, I would be looking more toward the float adjustment, primary circuit, and power valve circuits. If you can feather the throttle to keep it going, you are using the accel pump to squirt fuel to keep it going...that either means a fuel supply issue or like mentioned earlier, a vacuum leak. That would be a big vacuum leak to actually make it stall. What vacuum are you pulling at idle?

Just spitballing the variables as there have been a lot of changes made.

Edit...there are very few scenarios I can think of that would warrant having to discard one of these carbs.
 
brian said:
City racer non usa Japanese carb either his aftermarket or new oe.
Dont fart around with the weber.
Click to expand...
Agreed. If you are desmogged get a city racer Japanese Fuji Carb , I’ve tried the Weber and it ran well nut was always rich. I messed up and bought a trollhole China carb that had shavings all in it and finally went with the city racer carb and couldn’t be happier. It’s a perfect replacement for the factory carb
 
Have you pulled the fuel line off the carb, cranked engine, and checked fuel flow? When running, fuel level in middle of sight glass? Smogged or desmogged? Can you put it in first while idling, ease out the clutch without pushing the gas, and get it to go? Compression test after valve adjust, verified vacuum routing?

If you can drive in first fine, that seems to rule out ICS for the most part. Unless the wrong vacuum line is hooked to the decel diaghragm then you could theorize some odd behavior. Seems like the primary slow circuit is fine, if it is a carb problem, I would be looking more toward the float adjustment, Have you pulled the fuel line off the carb, cranked engine, and checked fuel flow? When running, fuel level in middle of sight glass? Smogged or desmogged? Can you put it in first while idling, ease out the clutch without pushing the gas, and get it to go? Compression test after valve adjust, verified vacuum routing?

If you can drive in first fine, that seems to rule out ICS for the most part. Unless the wrong vacuum line is hooked to the decel diaghragm then you could theorize some odd behavior. Seems like the primary slow circuit is fine, if it is a carb problem, I would be looking more toward the float adjustment, primary circuit, and power valve circuits. If you can feather the throttle to keep it going, you are using the accel pump to squirt fuel to keep it going...that either means a fuel supply issue or like mentioned earlier, a vacuum leak. That would be a big vacuum leak to actually make it stall. What vacuum are you pulling at idle?

Just spitballing the variables as there have been a lot of changes made.

Edit...there are very few scenarios I can think of that would warrant having to discard one of these carbs. If you can feather the throttle to keep it going, you are using the accel pump to squirt fuel to keep it going...that either means a fuel supply issue or like mentioned earlier, a vacuum leak. That would be a big vacuum leak to actually make it stall. What vacuum are you pulling at idle?

Just spitballing the variables as there have been a lot of changes made.

Edit...there are very few scenarios I can think of that would warrant having to discard one of these carbs.
Click to expand...

I have not pulled the fuel line off the carb and cranked, should I just see fuel coming out of the line? When it is running it's hard to see in that glass window but it does look a little low, I can see gas in the window but It's hard to tell if it's in themiddle because the truck is shaking and window is dirty. I will try to ease off the clutch without pushing the gas. I did a compression test after valve adjustments and everything seemed correct. I'll double check the vacuum routing tomorrow but I did do a prety thorough/took my time while doing the lines using the service manual. I honestly don't know what the primary circuit, and power valve circuits are haha. I believe my vacuum was around 18, I'll double check that tomorrow as well. Thank you a lot, I will report back tomorrow
 
That's the carb referenced a few posts up- made by Fuji in Japan sold by City Racer LLC here - that's also who has it listed on EBay.

Look City Racer up. The carbs are a bit cheaper on their website.
 
That's the carb referenced a few posts up- made by Fuji in Japan sold by City Racer LLC here - that's also who has it listed on EBay.

Look City Racer up. The carbs are a bit cheaper on their webs
Click to expand...

Okay, and I'm going to have to desmog to get that carb to work correct? I know my EGR has already been bypassed it has been plugged up by a PO
 
Can you post some pics of your engine bay for us. Can help tell the tale of your truck. Honestly, rebuilding the carb is not an overly hard job, :banana::banana: at most, you just need to pay close attention to small parts and @Pin_Head has some great video tutorials on YouTube (linked in the How-to section) for disassembly and reassembly. I am currently in the process of doing mine while I have a borrowed carb on the truck.
 
well you can go from that to this.
and this is with the very carb you're looking at.

2F-2017.jpg
 
if you are not required to pass a smog test/inspection there is no good reason not to gut it.
and i can assure you, it will run better, start quicker and generally be cleaner under the hood.
 
brian said:
if you are not required to pass a smog test/inspection there is no good reason not to gut it.
and i can assure you, it will run better, start quicker and generally be cleaner under the hood.
Click to expand...
Well, for one thing I'm not sure if I'm always going to live where I live. I also found and downloaded the desmogging manual guide from here and I read through it some and saw that it requires some stuff from Jim C, If I can get in contact with him I think I'd rather just have him rebuild my original carb and keep it smog.
 
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