installing factory lockers (1 Viewer)

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captnjim

captnjim

Joined
Jan 19, 2011
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I called cruiserparts.net today and asked about getting all the parts to install the factory lockers, has anyone done this before? (im sure people on here have :p) but anyways what do you guys think is better? this or the arb lockers?
 
4.1 Factory lockers

...

It is possible to retrofit factory lockers to a non-lockered model. However there are some welding and grinding involved. Also you would need the locker ECU, the harnesses and new axle shafts (or have them re-splined) Typically it is not a cost effective exercise, but it can be done.


4.2 Aftermarket lockers

ARB Air lockers are the only way to get total selectability if your vehicle was not equipped with factory lockers. Air lockers can be installed for less money than trying to retrofit electric lockers. It is also possible to use the oem switch and wire up the lights on the dash to work similar to the stock setup.

From: Slee - 80 Series Land Cruiser Newbie Guide


Several members have done this, but based on discussions I've seen ARB's are the most cost effective and (someone correct me if I'm wrong here) are a bit stronger/more robust?
 
You could swap axles completely, which is what I think you mean right?
I do not know what the cost comparison to ARB's would be
I think that it would be pretty close
 
if your cruiser is close to / is stock it may be easier to just look around for a fully locked truck ad sell yours? Although i will 3rd from what i have read that the arb in the rear (front if your hard core) are the way to go if your not locked from the factory.
 
I installed factory lockers in my daughters 80. There was some modification involved. I am pretty sure there are some threads in the FAQ
 
thanks, i ment swaping the whole axles, they gave me a price of about 2320 with shipping, and from what ive heard with arb it would be over 4000 is that correct?
 
I've done the swap, and so have many others here - the decision to do so was made because I was offered a complete swap package for a blowout price.
Really, it's easier & cheaper to just go with ARB's unless you have a line on getting the entire package of parts, because it'll nickel & dime you into being more expensive than ARB's.

Both sides have their merit - you can take a broken factory lockered 80 to a Toy dealership & get it fixed (not saying they have a master tech to do the work, just that all parts are supported by Mr.T & that hypothetically they could repair a broken locker)

As for ARB's - the rear factory locker is known to not be of a bulletproof robust design, and if you twist the splined shaft you could end up having to drill a huge hole in the axle shell to get repair work underway - so that's something to keep in mind when buying a locker package - if you are a super hardcore "I wheel the snot outta my stuff"-type guy, maybe the ARB would suit you better, that's a question only you can answer.

If you search "factory locker" "diff locker" "e-locker" & variations on the word "swap" you'll get a boatload of threads on it.

Really, if you decide an e-locker swap is what you got to have, buying it piecemeal will destroy your wallet - it only really makes $en$e to either get it all as a package, or buy a totalled 80 with lockers & pull parts you need.

I can say though that I enjoy wrenchwork & had a great time doing mine - and a side benefit of doing it is that I now know the system better than any guy who bought a 80 factory equipped & hasn't opened his axles & seen the 3rd members & I can fault diagnose the system fairly well having really spent time in the EWD studying the differing paths of current that make the system work.
 
I saved a bunch of money doing it peice meal, but I am a good shopper
:D
Front Locker -$375
Rear Locker - $350
ECU $100
Wiring harnesses Under $100 for two and made third
Long side rear axle shaft $50

$600 to install lockers and modify axel housing

Assuming its cheaper and easier to buy whole axles and do the swap is not 100% correct. I paid less to do this peicemeal and have the lockers installed (I did electronics) then axles would cost. Then you have to ship, install and still worry about the electronics

Course it all depends how much it costs to get the locker
 
Patience. Romerson. Good Shopping!


Romer said:
I saved a bunch of money doing it peice meal, but I am a good shopper
:D
Front Locker -$375
Rear Locker - $350
ECU $100
Wiring harnesses Under $100 for two and made third
Long side rear axle shaft $50

$600 to install lockers and modify axel housing

Assuming its cheaper and easier to buy whole axles and do the swap is not 100% correct. I paid less to do this peicemeal and have the lockers installed (I did electronics) then axles would cost. Then you have to ship, install and still worry about the electronics

Course it all depends how much it costs to get the locker
Click to expand...
 
Ken - you are a heck of a shopper - I used all true 'yota parts to do mine (wanted to keep it all Toy dealership service-able, but you are going to get the new guys' head full of ideas posting prices like that.

Seriously, good for you getting yours that cheap! I've never seen anyone post anywhere near that cheap having done it piecemeal!

Since we are talking real dollar figures on the swap, here's my experience - I paid just over $2200 including the 3rd member overhaul work done at JT's, and I also bought a new-in-the-bag floor harness & rear intermediary harness because I hate when you buy used harnesses & all the body clips are broken off & stuff rattles.

I also bought a new front axle shell, but I don't really count that as I planned to just modify mine myself, but I found out during teardown I'd bent the shell a good 3/8" - so since I needed a shell, I just bought a new one with the locker bolt-up flange.

Modified my rear axle shell myself, and all parts came from Dan, so I got the MUD rate for parts (plus Dan's infinite knowledge when ordering all the studs for the axle housings to 3rd member bolt-up).

I tend to think my cost has to be more the average people are paying, at least based on the prices for stuff in the classifieds here????
 
I bought everything right here on Ih8mud in the classifieds. First did the rear locker and installed the front a year later. The rear locker will get you 90% of where you want to go.

Looking like there are a few for $700, one just sold for $500. If your patient :D

I did this about 4 years ago
 
Thinking back, I do recall my front 3rd was a zero mile NIB complete with spanky new actuator - I got all my stuff as a package from Christo - so I suppose I paid a little to "keep the lights on", but back when I got it, I recall a dry spell around here on locked axles & I suppose I might have paid a small premium, but it went to a guy I don't mind making a buck off me.

I forget which year I bought the parts, it was shamefully long before me installing last year - but I completely agree with you on the rear locker.

Still, I'm impressed with how well you did, Ken.

I'd sooner buy a cream puff (with lots of maint. receipts) unlocked 80 & add a ARB rear than buy a factory lockered one that is questionable in ways & previous owners got a lot of use out of the rotary knob. Just my opinion.
 
LINUS said:
Still, I'm impressed with how well you did, Ken.
Click to expand...

Thanks

My $42 win on aussie ebay for an aux tank, pump and mounting brackets was a better deal :D
 
Romer said:
Thanks

My $42 win on aussie ebay for an aux tank, pump and mounting brackets was a better deal :D
Click to expand...

Damn you suck! Wish I had the time to surf the web & get the deals. Nice
 
I was just at classic cruisers in Salida CO and they have a wrecked fact locked 80. He told me 1750 for "everything". Might be worth a call. Don't knownif that is axles, I think I asked if axles where included. I know actuators and locking parts...
 
Tapage said:
Edit: so long time no see you around here Mr. Romer ..
Click to expand...

I am here most every day, just nothing worth posting. I was doing quiet moderating of this section.

Guess I feel like socializing today :D
 
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