Installing door glass into the channel at the bottom

[Living in the Past]

Have a non operating cruiser in a garage that passenger window does not roll up. Was doing some checking on the door for other reasons when I noticed the glass is out of the channel on the bottom. This is a rust free door so channel is fine and rubber strip is still intact. The window channel itself needs replacing which I guess rolling down at some point it popped out the channel. Search and didn't see a thread on this. Is there thread that addresses this? I pushed the glass down while rolling up and once at the top thought it might pop in but no go. This is a 75/76 door with metal crank handles so can put enough pressure on it. I had the rubber on the glass when I tried it. Am I better with the rubber channel in the metal channel? Soap up the glass first? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[UltraFJ40]

Isn't there a front and rear vertical channel (run) that it also goes into? Sorry, it's been a while since I've had a 40 or much less replace the window. I would go with the rubber in the channel and lubricate the glass with dish soap.

 

[65swb45]

John, like most things in life, 90% is in the preparation. Your best result will come from removing the glass from the door and reinstalling the track on a workbench with some wooden blocks and pipe clamps.

 

[Living in the Past]

Isn't there a front and rear vertical channel (run) that it also goes into? Sorry, it's been a while since I've had a 40 or much less replace the window. I would go with the rubber in the channel and lubricate the glass with dish soap.

The channel on this old door is felt not rubber but it does has a front and rear channels that were keeping in place. It's just out of the track the on the bottom the regulator uses to raise and lower the window.

John, like most things in life, 90% is in the preparation. Your best result will come from removing the glass from the door and reinstalling the track on a workbench with some wooden blocks and pipe clamps.

I agree Mark. This is one of a pair of $25 apiece doors I have on my 79. If I pull the window then I would start replacing parts. Getting close to the end of years of parts searching. These doors are being replaced by 84 doors with vent windows. I just noticed the window was out of the track after pulling the door card. Really just want the window back in the track so can roll it up if I haul the cruiser some where.

After a couple hours of no response decided to try putting the runner channel in the track after I used soap to lube it. Slid the rubber forward of the channel a little bit to get it over the window then slid it back. Rolled up the window and front end slid down into the channel. With the window half way down got the back half seated. I know because of the soap it will come out pretty easy. For now have a window that will close and just need to push the glass down when lowering. Only have a Haynes manual here. It was no help. All my FSM are kept somewhere else.

 

[UltraFJ40]

The channel on this old door is felt not rubber but it does has a front and rear channels that were keeping in place. It's just out of the track the on the bottom the regulator uses to raise and lower the window.




I agree Mark. This is one of a pair of $25 apiece doors I have on my 79. If I pull the window then I would start replacing parts. Getting close to the end of years of parts searching. These doors are being replaced by 84 doors with vent windows. I just noticed the window was out of the track after pulling the door card. Really just want the window back in the track so can roll it up if I haul the cruiser some where.

After a couple hours of no response decided to try putting the runner channel in the track after I used soap to lube it. Slid the rubber forward of the channel a little bit to get it over the window then slid it back. Rolled up the window and front end slid down into the channel. With the window half way down got the back half seated. I know because of the soap it will come out pretty easy. For now have a window that will close and just need to push the glass down when lowering. Only have a Haynes manual here. It was no help. All my FSM are kept somewhere else.

FSM's

[update: these are no longer available at the links below] MUD now has a Resource tab at the top of the Navigation bar: Resources - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/ You may find what you are looking for there. Manuals Chassis and Body 1958-1970 1971 Chassis & Body manual 1975...

forum.ih8mud.com

I found Trollhole's post of FSM's The door door / window removal is in the Manual for '75. It is section 11-5 (pg 274 of 412). It might be useful to have electronically. Hope that helps.

 

[lcwizard]

I think I used silicone last time. After market glass is thinner and doesn't fit as tight. Even with new felts the aftermarket stuff rattles in
the runners until it closes at the top

 

[Living in the Past]

I think I used silicone last time. After market glass is thinner and doesn't fit as tight. Even with new felts the aftermarket stuff rattles in
the runners until it closes at the top

Toyota's glass prices sure have changed over the years. When I installed vent window in a 73 hard top back in the nineties the main fixed glass was broken on both sides of wrecked 78 I got the rest of the items I needed for the conversion. No one want to try and cut down safety glass so went to the dealer. Believe each side was just over $17.00. the door glass for the late model doors still shows available. With discount still over a $100.00. The early doors have a bump stop on the bottom. Later do not which is why I wanted it back in it's track to keep the glass from getting broken not to be using it. The thought buying new OEM glass just because I was too lazy to protect original didn't make sense. Cheap aftermarket is even worse. If I decide I'm going to restore the doors will do as Mark said and remove the glass from the door. Silicone would be used verses a soapy solution. Hate looking at a manual on my phone. Not sure if they cover being sure the channel is located in the right position on the glass to be sure if stays in the rollers from the regulator. Doing it in the door it automatically is in the correct location.

All the new weatherstripping for the window channels are rubber right? Thought the chrome strip and felt were NLA?

 

[lcwizard]

@Living in the Past
The last one I personally did was about five years ago.. maybe more. It was on a 1982 40 series. Not sure if all the pieces were
Toyota. Between Specter and Cruiser Corps I think I sourced everything. One lesson I did learn is that the Toyota door
seals are well worth the money even at twice the price or more. The aftermarket stuff was OK for my own stuff but I'd never use
it on a customer's as long as the OEM is available