Installing ARB compressor - Best location for accessory & dash illumination tap? (1 Viewer)

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I'm trying to do this myself, but have a few noob questions:
For the power wires that go to the battery, do you just pull off some sheathing and wrap the bare wire around the terminal, or is there some cleaner option?

When you ran the harness through the firewall, did you use the existing hole where the hood release line goes through, cut open the free nipple thats available (on mine anyway), or just push the whole rubber grommet aside to fish it through?

How do you get the panel under the steering wheel off to access the bank of buttons on the left, so I can install the switch? I see two bolts to remove, is that all there is? The very lower panel with the TPMS was easy to remove.
Builds - Rocklander Build
I documented it on page 4 of my 200 tread. For trim removal, on top of the screws that you removed on the bottom, you need to also remove the black plastic piece that faces the floor, the wood trim thats around the steering wheel, then pop off the plastic piece that is on the drivers edge of the dash that faces the drivers door (its a "D" kinda shape). Then remove the dead foot panel, and the rocker trim, then you can pry the lower dash plastic off. That gives you full access to everything. If you don't have trim pry tools, I highly recommend you pick some up. If you run into snags, let me know.
 
Builds - Rocklander Build
I documented it on page 4 of my 200 tread. For trim removal, on top of the screws that you removed on the bottom, you need to also remove the black plastic piece that faces the floor, the wood trim thats around the steering wheel, then pop off the plastic piece that is on the drivers edge of the dash that faces the drivers door (its a "D" kinda shape). Then remove the dead foot panel, and the rocker trim, then you can pry the lower dash plastic off. That gives you full access to everything. If you don't have trim pry tools, I highly recommend you pick some up. If you run into snags, let me know.

How is the switch that ARB supplies supposed to fit in the blank by the mirror control?
Edit: pic is what my switch looks like now.

DAFA8373-F574-4B81-B70C-98BCBB3A27D5.jpeg
 
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How is the switch that ARB supplies supposed to fit in the blank by the mirror control?
Edit: pic is what my switch looks like now.

View attachment 1784432
They don't. If you don't want to cut the factory plastic blanks bezel apart, then buy replacement switches from companies like Air on Board or CH4x4

Tundra Replacement Switch LED light GREEN -Air On Board

The link above has a new color that is supposed to be much closer of a green to our 200s. I've haven't tried them yet, but I plan to pick them up to replace mine once this Hurricane Florence passes.
 
They don't. If you don't want to cut the factory plastic blanks bezel apart, then buy replacement switches from companies like Air on Board or CH4x4

Tundra Replacement Switch LED light GREEN -Air On Board

The link above has a new color that is supposed to be much closer of a green to our 200s. I've haven't tried them yet, but I plan to pick them up to replace mine once this Hurricane Florence passes.


Does this look correct?
ETA: blew the 10amp fuse in the Add-A Few already. The compressor was turning on/off, and the button was lit solid, and I didn't even connect the illumination wire yet.

54095EEE-BFA3-4958-BC2A-516AC9441EC7.jpeg
 
They don't. If you don't want to cut the factory plastic blanks bezel apart, then buy replacement switches from companies like Air on Board or CH4x4

Tundra Replacement Switch LED light GREEN -Air On Board

The link above has a new color that is supposed to be much closer of a green to our 200s. I've haven't tried them yet, but I plan to pick them up to replace mine once this Hurricane Florence passes.

Any idea how to wire the fused relay to get that switch to work, since it's only rated to 3 amps?
 
I’m not sure what you’re asking. PM and we can talk about it over the phone.

Also, and not in insult you're intelligence. But you've insulated those connectors so they can't touch each other?
 
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I just went SPOD mounted overhead in the sunglass holder and bypassed the issue? Neanderthal but it works for me, switches illuminate only when active.
 
I just went SPOD mounted overhead in the sunglass holder and bypassed the issue? Neanderthal but it works for me, switches illuminate only when active.
Did you use the sPOD for Tundra Sunglass holder or one of the standard switch set-ups?
 
Curious why you chose to give up your subwoofer versus going under the hood with the Slee tray?
 
Curious why you chose to give up your subwoofer versus going under the hood with the Slee tray?

Not all non-US 200 Series have that subwoofer. I bet he’s in another country and his 200 didn’t have the subwoofer there.
 
I thought on this location. There is also a bracket you can get from arb oz dealer for around $700 (imported to us). In the end I didn’t want the noise in the cab, and didn’t want to have to put the air hose through a bulkhead to the exterior. Lots of ways to solve the where to mount Problem, this one is super stealth and out of the way.
 
Reviving an old thread here with a slightly different question. I'd like to find an ACC tap under the hood but every fuse I tried seemed to be powered even when the truck was off. Perhaps I'm jus missing something obvious but I would assume things like Rear Seat Heater is not available unless the truck is turned on. However, it too provided power when the truck was off.

FYI, I'm planning on using one of those "add a circuit" things to trigger a relay for the power distribution block I'm installing in the cargo area. I only want the power to be available to the block when the truck is in ACC or ON positions. Hoping to keep the relay under the hood and not have to run a wire from the cab OUT to the relay for the ACC power.
 
I think there isn’t one. You can get acc from the amplifier plug under the left /us driver seat. Or the fuse box under the left/us driver inside cowl. Or the center console at the back of the cigarette lighter.
 
Reviving an old thread here with a slightly different question. I'd like to find an ACC tap under the hood but every fuse I tried seemed to be powered even when the truck was off. Perhaps I'm jus missing something obvious but I would assume things like Rear Seat Heater is not available unless the truck is turned on. However, it too provided power when the truck was off.

FYI, I'm planning on using one of those "add a circuit" things to trigger a relay for the power distribution block I'm installing in the cargo area. I only want the power to be available to the block when the truck is in ACC or ON positions. Hoping to keep the relay under the hood and not have to run a wire from the cab OUT to the relay for the ACC power.
There is one but I don’t have the fuse info handy and I’m traveling right now. I did post some questions and then info in the forum around May 2021 about this if you look for my posts about fuses around then. I used an add-a-fuse under the hood and I have switched power like you want.
 
There is one but I don’t have the fuse info handy and I’m traveling right now. I did post some questions and then info in the forum around May 2021 about this if you look for my posts about fuses around then. I used an add-a-fuse under the hood and I have switched power like you want.
Thanks!

Found it and for anyone else looking, here's a link.

 
Thanks!

Found it and for anyone else looking, here's a link.

I still didn't find ACC in the linked thread. Am I missing one?
 
I still didn't find ACC in the linked thread. Am I missing one?
I haven't had the chance to go out and verify this but thought this was the one they were talking about:

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