Installing a heater where there has never been one.. tips? what to expect? (1 Viewer)

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Rusto

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Not quite ready to jump into this, probably be there in a month. But I searched around didn't see anything about installing a heater....

So here goes. I have a LatAm import BJ40 that didn't come with a heater from the factory and doesn't have one now. I've seen pictures of aftermarket HVAC units and that's an option I guess, but I'd prefer to install an OEM heater unit. I don't really need AC. ( i have two windows and the vent windows, after all)...

other than sourcing ALL of the parts and a 24volt specific blower motor, is there anything else that may surprise me?
my thoughts are that I find an FJ40 that is being parted out and get EVERYTHING associated with the heater as a starting point.

This is on my to do list for the winter.
 
What year is your rig?
 
'75
 
Look for a heater like this:

Zeke heater.JPG


It bolts to the firewall with 4 bolts. If you're lucky, you may have the captive nuts on your firewall below the radio. You'll also need two accordian defrost tubes, one is visible connected to the left side of the heater box. You'll also need this:

Control valve4.JPG


the blower motor for both heat and fresh air, and inlet and return pipes/hoses and a control valve (next to engine block). I've seen entire units in Mud classifieds for $100 - $300 depending on condition. SOR sells rebuild kits for $40. I've rebuilt 3 this year, so I must be an expert now.
 
I am in the process of rebuilding my 1975 FJ40 and will be replacing the OEM heater with a new aftermrkt one with A/C. It worked fine when I pulled it a few years ago. All the foam is shot, but the unit is sound, let me know if you might be interested.
 
Original no longer works properly. In researching Mud postings I learned even new ones don't shut off completely. If the $16 one I just installed works (so far so good) I intend to make a metal mounting bracket that will fit where the original bolts in to allow me to use the dash knob.
 
Good stuff. @ludwig I just DMed in you about your heater. I'll still need to figure out the blower motor for 24v, but this gives me a good idea as to what to expect.
 
Original no longer works properly. In researching Mud postings I learned even new ones don't shut off completely. If the $16 one I just installed works (so far so good) I intend to make a metal mounting bracket that will fit where the original bolts in to allow me to use the dash knob.
I just finished completely restoring my original heater system in my ‘79. After installing the new heater valve on the firewall it’s easy to see how one could mount the cable in such a way that it doesn’t shut completely. You need to clamp the cable housing down when the cable is in the fully shut position, and do that carefully so the valve isn’t partially open when you’re done tightening the clamp. My heater valve doesn’t leak a bit when it’s closed.
 
Not quite ready to jump into this, probably be there in a month. But I searched around didn't see anything about installing a heater....

So here goes. I have a LatAm import BJ40 that didn't come with a heater from the factory and doesn't have one now. I've seen pictures of aftermarket HVAC units and that's an option I guess, but I'd prefer to install an OEM heater unit. I don't really need AC. ( i have two windows and the vent windows, after all)...

other than sourcing ALL of the parts and a 24volt specific blower motor, is there anything else that may surprise me?
my thoughts are that I find an FJ40 that is being parted out and get EVERYTHING associated with the heater as a starting point.

This is on my to do list for the winter.
LMK if you need any pictures of parts of the system. Happy to provide.
 
I just finished completely restoring my original heater system in my ‘79. After installing the new heater valve on the firewall it’s easy to see how one could mount the cable in such a way that it doesn’t shut completely. You need to clamp the cable housing down when the cable is in the fully shut position, and do that carefully so the valve isn’t partially open when you’re done tightening the clamp. My heater valve doesn’t leak a bit when it’s closed.
I like that idea. Got a pic?
 
I like that idea. Got a pic?

Sure. This is the position you should have the heater valve prior to tightening the cable housing clamp. Push down gently on the valve arm WHILE you tighten the clamp so you ensure that when your WARM PULL knob is all the way in, the heater valve is fully closed. Both my new heater valve and my original had zero leak-by when using this method.
A6C12E58-2DB8-43C1-990A-C4A5528E5873.jpeg
1EE22181-54F3-46B4-B591-2F39C7F8C44D.jpeg
 
To @Rusto original questions. Your heater requires a source of coolant. The way that Toyoda-San designed it was a Tee off the lower radiator hoses. This line ran back to the firewall into the heater grommet shown in my picture above. This line uses a section of hard pipe over the dizzy and oil filter but I would venture to say you could probably run a hose this entire distance. I’m in the process of replacing my side cover gasket so please excuse the mess.
AFB5EDFA-701F-4BFA-BBBC-BD6FBE7CA825.jpeg
66810DA8-641D-4B6D-ADF9-3B3923F06554.jpeg
 
Inside, the two coolant lines both Tee off again, this time straight downwards, to provide a second
D210D21A-E70B-4BE3-9D88-E1C244BFCE13.jpeg
2CBF88B8-AB30-45CF-9789-43BCA4A4A2AA.jpeg
0AFD78F6-D129-4D5B-961E-2A9DE623CB56.jpeg
CB69F9EE-33FB-46C5-B848-A7E34DE49EE6.jpeg
loop to the rear heater. You do NOT need the OEM hard pipes for any of this. They are weak, and are a source of more leaks and frustration. You can use barbed T-fittings and clamps. I eliminated the long hard pipes to the rear heater and am super pleased with the result.
 
Good stuff @AntFarm. The pictures help!
I have a 2F in my 60 I can use as some a guide somewhat for proper hose routing which should help

Of course, mine is a B diesel engine, so ill have to see how that makes it different.

This has been a good thread so far. I'm working on assembling the parts now and will continue to use this thread when the work actually starts happening
 

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