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Inspection, First Run Questions

Discussion in 'Diesel Tech / 24 volts' started by BreckenridgeCruiser, Aug 29, 2006.

  1. BreckenridgeCruiser

    BreckenridgeCruiser I break things. SILVER Star

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    Hello All,

    I am picking up a BJ44 from the port in a few days and would like to know a few things.

    1) What should I inspect before driving it too far - I am unfamiliar with diesels but know the 40 series (gas) pretty well.

    2) Someone recommended that I bleed the fuel system. How do i do this... where is the bleed nipple? What is the procedure? Keep in mind i have never seen this engine before. Pics would be a great help!

    3) Anything else I should do (run some fuel additive? what kind?) before I drive this back?

    Thanks for your patience with a true newbie!

    Kraig :beer:
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2006
  2. fe sus

    fe sus

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    There's a manual fuel primer pump near the injectors that has a bleed nipple. I guess you could bleed it from there... but I think that would be kind of silly. If you just run the fuel in that you intend to run it will flush itself out. I run B100 and never did any sort of fuel flushing before I switched from petro-diesel.
     
  3. BreckenridgeCruiser

    BreckenridgeCruiser I break things. SILVER Star

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    So when you run out of gas (for example) you can just crank it until it pumps fuel back through the system? this won't hurt the engine in any way?

    Kraig
     
  4. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    dude .. you don't really need to bleed the hole system if is running fine .. aditive for cetane are fine .. clean the injectors .. nice .. fuel filter, and go more far away, diesel shop to check your injectors and timing in your pump.
     
  5. roscoFJ73

    roscoFJ73

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    As Tapage says. The fuel system should be sealed so as no air can enter. If it starts and runs smooth then its ok.

    If you run out of fuel you disconnect the fuel lines to the injectors and hand operate a pump till all the air is replaced with fuel and then you recconnect the fuel lines.(This should be done with an injector line spanner )
    Different types of diesels have slightly differing procedures for doing this but thats the basics;)

    Otherwise check the oil and coolant levels. It may have a flat battery so be prepared for that.

    Fuel additives are usually added just before the tank is filled up for consistency.
     
  6. BreckenridgeCruiser

    BreckenridgeCruiser I break things. SILVER Star

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    Any experience with the new BG44k for diesels? I have used the gas formulation and it's awesome!

    Thanks again... any more things I should be aware of? What should I use to get rid of water if it might have gotten into the tank/system?

    Kraig
     
  7. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    diesel fuel conditioner would help with water. dump the tank if a lot of water is present.
    hth,:beer:

    p.s. i'm a junior, it's about time!
     
  8. knorrena

    knorrena

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    If I recall correctly its a 24v so I would bring a couple of batteries in case it wont start. I have read that occasionally the guys that move them around sometimes leave the lights on so that they can charge more because the vehicle wont start.

    Karl
     
  9. crushers

    crushers post ho SILVER Star

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    check the tires for cracks in between the treads.
    the above advice is fine for the drive home.
    i have used BG44K and it is fine but that SeaFoam is kick ass (available at most Napa stores)
    a set of jumper cables and a basic set of tools (19, 17, 14, 13, 12, 10, star screw driver and a flat should suffice)(BTW, usually it is the 12V battery that needs a boost)
    take a container of coolant, a couple quarts of oil, a can of brake fluid (clutch and brake use the same fluid, and make sure you check the t.case tranny and rear diff fluid levels (do NOT take it to a Jiffy etc place to have them check the levels)
    hit the brakes to make sure they pull realitvely straight at stopping and how much play is in hte center link in the corner of the frame. this will tell you how fast you will be driving.
    once you do these things sit back and enjoy the ride home...

    cheers and congrates on your new 44
     
  10. Greg_B

    Greg_B

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    Good synopsis by Crushers. Spoken from someone who has done it; that is close to the list I take.

    Add some duct tape, electrical tape, voltmeter, tire pressure guage etc to the list. Check all belts and hoses, in addition to the coolant level/brake fluid level/clutch fluid levels Wayne mentions. Walk around and check lug nuts, give a basic check to the underside, then get underneath and check the t-case and tranny fluid levels. There is not excuse not too! Check signals, lights. Start slow, make a few stops and manouvers to check everything out and get a feel. Almost goes without saying..keep a close eye on your guages. If you want to ensure there is no water, then check the sedimenter. 10mm bolt on the bottom, and drain some into a clear containor (I am assuming the BJ44 will have a sedimenter on the framerail like the BJ42's).

    If all is good, enjoy your drive home. Fill it up as soon as you can, adding the conditioner and new fuel.

    I would add that Lubro-Moly Diesel Purge is a great heavy dose injection system cleaner, and I would recommend doing that for the injection system at some point. Change the fuel filter after the purge. In fact it is a once a year or so thing for me. Also run a fuel conditioner at every tank.

    Once home dig deeper and check all the stuff you would normally for any 4* series (knuckle bearings, wheel bearings, complete brake system check, etc).

    Get an engine manual.

    Pop the valve cover and do a valve set. Check the inside condition of the valve cover for sludge/contamination. If poor maybe consider a few quickish oil changes to make sure things are cleaned out. Don't be afraid to run it hard and make it work.

    If your drive is a long way maybe consider finding a hoist or loan of a jack and check the wheel bearings and knuckles for play before heading out.

    Enjoy!

    hth's

    gb
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2006
  11. BreckenridgeCruiser

    BreckenridgeCruiser I break things. SILVER Star

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    Thanks everyone!

    I picked it up today. It starte up fine, even readily. glowed it for about ten seconds and it fired right up. Ran a little rough for the first couple of minutes, but i pulled the throttle cable to up the RPMS enough to smooth it out just a little.

    Then the problem! I tried to put it in rev to back out of the port. the clutch wouldn't disengage. POOP. I then looked at the pedal throw and realized that the clutch pedal moved halfway to the floor before you could feel the clutch slave kick in. Double poop. I check the entire system. No leaks. I was about to bleed the system when a though occured to me. How about adjusting the piston enough to get it to work.

    That did the trick. After groaning, sweating, and swearing... and a mess load of Penetrant, I was able to de-gunk the threads on the piston enough to move it out and reset the clutch throw.

    Drove off of the dock to the gas station, filled it up and put an additive (it had cetane in it and only needed an ounce to treat 30 gallons - any feedback on these?) and then drove the thirt miles back to my friends house.

    Now to start the project list! firstly I need new and much bigger tires. It has old 31x10.50x15 on it now and it really is not enough to compensate for the h41. Anyone use an h41 with 35s and the stock 4.11s? How is that combo?

    Thanks again to all. I have so many questions, but i will spread out my questions as I move more projects into the 'win' column.

    Kraig
     
  12. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    Congrats dude .. I feel your emotion !
     
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