Insane RTT deal Group Buy....interest?

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Our LX470 factory rack only has four feet. Granted, they are big feet. Pics from the interwebz show the LC100 has three feet per side for a total of 6. Probably stronger.

I wouldn't mount this tent to either one, but that's just me. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I have a long history of making poor choices and bad decisions and I am by no means an expert on anything.
 
roadstr6 said:
Our LX470 factory rack only has four feet. Granted, they are big feet. Pics from the interwebz show the LC100 has three feet per side for a total of 6. Probably stronger.

I wouldn't mount this tent to either one, but that's just me. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I have a long history of making poor choices and bad decisions and I am by no means an expert on anything.
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Hmm... my 98 470 has 6 feet. Maybe the rack changed with the changes in 2003.
 
My question was. Why we cannot install the mounting brakets on the aluminum bars and use the aftermarket gutter towers attached with the hardware. The are 4 point of contact if you do yakima bars. I will try to take a picture and see what you guys think. I just think it doesnt make sence that the aluminum bars are holding the while thing to a bar on 4 points why not put the mounts on the alu
 
custyota said:
I don't have a stock rack, I have the Rhino load bars. I've had no issues with my Tepui tent attached to the load bars. There are 3 mount holes on each side. Well tech 4.
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After going around in circles for few days last week, I decided on the Rhino Load bars as well. From what i read, there are four mount points on each side of my 99 (hidden mount points under trim next to sunroof) and I believe you are supposed to leave the front most mount point unused- is this correct? I'm on back order for the Rhino bars until July 22. Given the stock rack is almost 20 years old as mentioned above, and throwing money at the cruiser is always the solution, I'll be waiting a few weeks before receiving the bars and mounting the tent.

One other question, for those who have mounted and opened the tent, was the 81" ladder enough? I'm running stock wheels with Ironman ~1.5" lift and wondering if I should jump on a ladder extension while they may be available. The ladder does need some sideways cant for support, and my measurements tell me it is probably ok, but close.
 
Roxx said:
My question was. Why we cannot install the mounting brakets on the aluminum bars and use the aftermarket gutter towers attached with the hardware. The are 4 point of contact if you do yakima bars. I will try to take a picture and see what you guys think. I just think it doesnt make sence that the aluminum bars are holding the while thing to a bar on 4 points why not put the mounts on the alu
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So you mean to use the Mombassa aluminum bars mounted directly to towers, using them as the load bars?
 
Porter said:
After going around in circles for few days last week, I decided on the Rhino Load bars as well. From what i read, there are four mount points on each side of my 99 (hidden mount points under trim next to sunroof) and I believe you are supposed to leave the front most mount point unused- is this correct? I'm on back order for the Rhino bars until July 22. Given the stock rack is almost 20 years old as mentioned above, and throwing money at the cruiser is always the solution, I'll be waiting a few weeks before receiving the bars and mounting the tent.

One other question, for those who have mounted and opened the tent, was the 81" ladder enough? I'm running stock wheels with Ironman ~1.5" lift and wondering if I should jump on a ladder extension while they may be available. The ladder does need some sideways cant for support, and my measurements tell me it is probably ok, but close.
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You are correct there are 4 mounting spots on each side (I did not know this when In stalling mine) You use the mounts all the way in the front. You have to top the trim up if you have it. I had to use a drimel to cut that metal. any questions just hit me up.

I wish my Tepui bars on the bottom of my tent were about 6" longer so I could attach the tent to all 3 load bars. The two work just fine and I'm not a little dude.
 
JohnVee said:
So you mean to use the Mombassa aluminum bars mounted directly to towers, using them as the load bars?
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Correct, they carrie the load of the whole thing anyways
 
It would mean your tent has to be mounted with the rear overhang rather than the side overhang.
 
Home base....made it.

Do NOT travel with a 12 week old.

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^^^But the can be reoriented 90-degrees if you want to drill some holes and move some hardware, right?

And I'd imagine there would be more stress on the aluminum bars because their attachment point is now at the maximum length (the width of the vehicle), allowing for more flex, especially when loaded with human weight. But I said "I'd Imagine" because I am not an engineer. Nor do I have a RTT.
 
Under closed condition, the weight is all down. 100 or so pounds straight down is easy-peasy for the oe rack. It is under the open condition when the loading conditions change. If you are in the tent with the bulk of your mass over the rack, you are loading downward and again should be fine. It is when opening, entering or exiting the tent that the loading condition changes. The side opposite the door goes into tension as the center becomes basically a pivot point. If the tent is empty and a 200lb person is sitting on the edge putting shoes on or something, they are cantilevered out and the far mount is trying to pull out of the roof (ladders offer no vertical support). This is, to me, the worse of the two cases and at that point is strictly relying on the fastener to keep the rack mounted.

Say all that to say, unless you are going to a gutter mount and adding additional mounting points, the actual roof mounting points are the same whether factory or aftermarket.

As long as the cross-bars are mounted close to factory feet, then the side rails should be fine. Now they are typically plastic with some lite metal reinforcing and if you mount near the middle, you may get sagging or even upward deflection when the loading shifts (this up and down motion will also likely cause premature failure of the roof rail). The rails included with the tent do carry the load, but if you change how they mount on the tent base, try to maintain similar spacing and spacial placement on the base to ensure that they are supporting the base similar to the original orientation. If this is done, then sagging of the floor should not be a problem, then the only issue will be deflection along the tent base rails. It is highly likely that they will be fine, but that would be the thing to keep an eye on. Those are big asrs tents, so the mounting systems should be pretty robust and able to handle the spans, especially if you are just putting a couple folks in them. I think those were advertised as 4 man tents.

Apologies for going rogue and rambling. Hope it makes some sense, and if not, then just chalk it up to tying to kill time while sitting in traffic...
 
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Picked mine up today. Actually fits perfect on the 60 with the awning already up there. Apparently the shell I purchased is a whole replacement tent.

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RTT 9011 on my Bowfin rack. The tent is gigantic. I had to do some creative engineering in order to fit it in the garage. I ended up removing the lower ladder section and storing it inside the tent instead of on top. Now I clear the garage door by 1 inch!
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