Inner body rust and zinc phosphate dip? (1 Viewer)

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Jan 19, 2021
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Renton, WA
To anyone who said FJ40’s rust from the inside out, word. I’ve decided against using paint through primer on the internal overlapping areas. Figured it’s best to have the whole tub acid dipped prior to paint. Logic is that the acid bath will dissolve any rust I can’t get to. It will create a little more void allowing a zinc phosphate dip to internally coat everything. I’ll still use an internal frame style paint application to get paint where I can. So… Anyone done a zinc phosphate dip on their tub prior to paint? Any advice or recommendations?

Some photo examples. Driver seatbelt mount, just the inner plate is replaced. I should be able to get the outer skin done this weekend. Thicker gauge steel and ugly welds but I’m leaving them thick for reinforcement.
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Years ago a coworker was restoring a 1968 FJ40, ( I was doing a 1969) and he had his doors dipped before completing paint. 15 years later and they are still the same. If I was doing a frame off I would certainly rust prevent with modern processes.
 
Curious. How does one go about doing (zinc phosphate)? Are we talking about the ability to do this oneself or
taking it to some service to handle? I'm a bit remote from any industrial area and am mostly interested in anything
i can DIY.

Not doing "paint through primer".... did you mean to say "weld through primer"? You did this small patch area with zinc phosphate?
 
I had my tub acid dipped than galvanized. Make sure you add as many braces as you can to every piece that could bend or flex.
 
Curious. How does one go about doing (zinc phosphate)? Are we talking about the ability to do this oneself or
taking it to some service to handle? I'm a bit remote from any industrial area and am mostly interested in anything
i can DIY.

Not doing "paint through primer".... did you mean to say "weld through primer"? You did this small patch area with zinc phosphate?
Sorry yeah, damn auto correct. Weld through primer. Seemed like putting a band aid on an amputation. I feel like the whole thing needs to be submerged.
 
Years ago a coworker was restoring a 1968 FJ40, ( I was doing a 1969) and he had his doors dipped before completing paint. 15 years later and they are still the same. If I was doing a frame off I would certainly rust prevent with modern processes.


Location Location Location. Feel this is totally unnecessary in Arizona. My 68 that I've owned since July 74 is still a rust free cruiser not counting the dent I straightened and paint chips that were never painted. Those only have light surface rust that would easily sand out. Secret is keep the underside clean where moisture can be trapped. Even then not really an issue except for the rear sill and support channel on the front fenders. Been studying the 40 series where and why they rust since the eighties. Arizona's dry climate is idea for the 40 series. Been watching this rust spot on my 73 FST for twenty nine years. Haven't grown in all that time. More than half the time it been park outside.
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Location Location Location. Feel this is totally unnecessary in Arizona. My 68 that I've owned since July 74 is still a rust free cruiser not counting the dent I straightened and paint chips that were never painted. Those only have light surface rust that would easily sand out. Secret is keep the underside clean where moisture can be trapped. Even then not really an issue except for the rear sill and support channel on the front fenders. Been studying the 40 series where and why they rust since the eighties. Arizona's dry climate is idea for the 40 series. Been watching this rust spot on my 73 FST for twenty nine years. Haven't grown in all that time. More than half the time it been park outside.
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I agree on location. The 1960s and 1970s always used salt on roads in the northeast and beyond. All the nooks and cranny's on the FJ40 certainly would wick that solution in and begin the rust process. Arizona climate is probably the best for year round outdoor car life. It is hard to imagine that in Arizona you can actually use a wrench on exhaust fasteners when Northeast USA mainly use Acetylene torches because of the effect of fusion of these fasteners. My feeling anymore about rust repair is only minor areas. TP parts is now making tubs and more that will really change restoring the ones that are left.
 

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