Due to the design of the 2h, some crud is left around the port of the injector once the injector is removed . How are folks cleaning the ports? Brush and vacuum?
injector port cleaning?
- Thread starter sodafeld1
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if I understand you correctly, I would try and plug the hole first before doing any kind of cleaning. maybe if you can get it plugged good, you could use some brake cleaner to help.
- Thread starter
- #3
I cleaned the head first with pressure washer, then blast with air compressor, got it clean as possible, before cracking open anything.
But the ports which the injectors thread into above the precups still hold some crud. It would happen every time surely, due to gravity and a nearly vertical cup shape port. Some sort of skirt sleeve around the injector would be a good addition to insure crud can't fall in the port. The only way I can see that the ports could be made immaculately clean would be removing the head, which is extreme for changing injectors every 100000kms.
There are kits to buy, some recommend shot gun wire brush cleaners, squirt brake cleaner and then wet vacuum excavate on youtubby. That process does not convince me either.
Surprised that not much discussion has gone on about replacing injectors and cleaning the ports. A regular maintenance job.
Admittedly it is only the second time I have replaced injectors. On my old b engine, before internet, I was just careful and clean as possible, It worked ok.
I have now stripped 4 used heads on a 2h. All the injector nozzles were knackered.
I am getting the vacuum cleaner out, shall try plugging the hole, Thanks Taco.
I can see now that one of the injectors and port has some carbon in there, now that the hard return fuel line is removed. Would never have known, as compression and fuel consumption is all good.
But the ports which the injectors thread into above the precups still hold some crud. It would happen every time surely, due to gravity and a nearly vertical cup shape port. Some sort of skirt sleeve around the injector would be a good addition to insure crud can't fall in the port. The only way I can see that the ports could be made immaculately clean would be removing the head, which is extreme for changing injectors every 100000kms.
There are kits to buy, some recommend shot gun wire brush cleaners, squirt brake cleaner and then wet vacuum excavate on youtubby. That process does not convince me either.
Surprised that not much discussion has gone on about replacing injectors and cleaning the ports. A regular maintenance job.
Admittedly it is only the second time I have replaced injectors. On my old b engine, before internet, I was just careful and clean as possible, It worked ok.
I have now stripped 4 used heads on a 2h. All the injector nozzles were knackered.
I am getting the vacuum cleaner out, shall try plugging the hole, Thanks Taco.
I can see now that one of the injectors and port has some carbon in there, now that the hard return fuel line is removed. Would never have known, as compression and fuel consumption is all good.
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- #4
Jigged up drinking straw to vacuum cleaner. anti sieze on injector thread?
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- #5
After just replacing the injectors, I would clean engine first, then really blast compressed air in the holes before cracking anything. Good lighting, and wear or get glasses if you need them and do lots of vacuum cleaning in there once the injector is removed. Vacuum attachments such as Drinking straw, 8mm hose, and 6mm hose to get pass the precup.
Learnt first hand, avoid anything which shall damage those ports.
A 22mm crow foot with perpendicular breaker bar can hold the injector pump nuts still, if removing the hard fuel lines. It can fit behind the injector pump.
Learnt first hand, avoid anything which shall damage those ports.
A 22mm crow foot with perpendicular breaker bar can hold the injector pump nuts still, if removing the hard fuel lines. It can fit behind the injector pump.
What about positioning piston at TDC on injection. Remove glow plug and push compress air thru it to create positive pressure inside combustion chamber.
While cleaning injectors seating, it would help preventing carbon debris from « falling » did not try it, just a thought.
While cleaning injectors seating, it would help preventing carbon debris from « falling » did not try it, just a thought.
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- #8
Yes, it would help, it all depends how anal you are. You could figure out when the inlet manifold is open and suck on the inlet side of the head, then also find where the outlet manifold is open and blow for each cylinder as you go too. I don't imagine this as shop practice though. Open valves would have more area than the precups or glow holes I think.
My conclusion is that most pros would clean and really blow each port before cracking anything, then vacuum thoroughly in each port one removed injector at a time, hopefully there is not too much hard carbon which would require some delicate re seating work.
I wouldn't be as worried about carbon compared to metal chips falling in. I just did another stuff up post about dropping metal chips. Very good lesson for me, in which I may not have the conclusion of yet, ok for now.
Here is a mock up example on a cooked 2h I picked up. The arm can lever against either the block or upper arm of the water pump housing. You can still access the 17mm hard line from the outer side of the pump.Mate post a few picture so we can see this clearly
At least it works for the the first 3 injector pump nuts which are too close together to get a spanner on them. I have pulled apart 3 x 2h's and all them the injector lines are virtually welded to the pump outlets, the little clamps which hold the cog wheels don't hold enough and are easy to mar.
But, in all honesty, imo, it probably is unnecessary to remove the hard lines totally from the pump, unless you need to access the pump. Pro mechanics I have worked with, where it is all about time (why I don't like paying someone else to do it and be none the wiser), they would just bend the hard lines a bit to socket access the injectors. Say if the engine does 600000kms, injectors are replaced 6x , the hard lines could handle being bent that often, just remove the little upper clamps on the actual hard lines so they are free enough to bend a bit. It all depends how anal you are. However, this is certainly a job worth being anal about.
Now I see if the engine is that crusty I would pull it out of the engine bay and rebuild it properly
That being said if you are not able to remove the engine a simple method is to apply grease on the injectors and all around it to prevent any dirt to fall in... We do this if we have to drill a spot where the metal cannot enter or be contaminate
Personally I do not disturb anything I do not have to. While my experience is with the 3B and the 1HZ and not the 2H, if I loosened the support brackets on the injector lines and took them off the injectors, there was enough play that I did not have to force or bend them to remove and replace the injectors. You do not have to move them much at all to get the injectors out.
May be different for the 2H??
My 3 cents (inflation). Happy building!
May be different for the 2H??
My 3 cents (inflation). Happy building!
- Thread starter
- #11
Umm, that was a mock up, that engine has been cooked. I thought you wanted to see the spanner.
It is recommended to remove the lines carefully in manuals I have read. The hard lines are more rare than the injector housings for a 2h. Out of production. They would be hard to replace and very difficult to make, way more complex than brake hard lines due to the higher pressure they contain.
All care should be given not to damaged them!
I have read mixed opinions upon grease on fuel lines and injectors.
I have to be clear, I am only learning on the go, I am not a diesel mechanic. Really learning great respect for how careful and exact one has to be.
But some more discussion upon injectors is good to have on mud.
It is recommended to remove the lines carefully in manuals I have read. The hard lines are more rare than the injector housings for a 2h. Out of production. They would be hard to replace and very difficult to make, way more complex than brake hard lines due to the higher pressure they contain.
All care should be given not to damaged them!
I have read mixed opinions upon grease on fuel lines and injectors.
I have to be clear, I am only learning on the go, I am not a diesel mechanic. Really learning great respect for how careful and exact one has to be.
But some more discussion upon injectors is good to have on mud.
- Thread starter
- #12
I would say for sure that a tad of grease or anti sieze below the face of the 19mm nut which holds the return fuel line is a good. Whoever is doing the injector servicing should be checking the threads. The installer of the injectors may need tap clean the m12 1.5p threads of the nuts too. Sometimes when loosening this hold down nut, it can want to bend the return line if it has been left awhile.
