Injection Pump Timing

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Feb 1, 2014
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Brisbane
When I started working on my 1HZ the pump timing was set to 1.045, as the range is 1.03 - 1.09 I set it to 1.09

But I'm finding it a bit rattly, what is everyone else setting their 1HZ timing to?
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2012
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Brisbane, Queensland
Recently reset mine to about 1.09 along with setting valve clearances.

Had a bit of trouble measuring and setting the pump trying to do it the cheapo way. Magnetic stand, dial gauge with a nail for an extension...

Made a Huge difference from the ~1.25 ish it was at before hand. Massive boost in torque, quieter. Its no powerhouse but has made it much more driveable. Doesn't try to stall after a solid drive anymore either.

Car is an hzj79 with a td05 Turbo. ~400000kms
 

traveldud

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Is there something similar for the HJ61? ...the ebay link? don't mean to hijack the thread...just quick question...
 
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follow the stock advancement setting.
I believe 1.09mm is as far in the stock parameters with the stock pump.
Unless stated differently by your pump builder.
My XXi pump has a different plunger stroke all together....
 
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Apr 27, 2014
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Canadian Shield
Concerning the timing specifications about plunger stroke for a 1HZ pump I must admit that i'm a little bit confused. The specs are not the same in all SDS (SERVICE DATA SHEET). He re are the numbers mentioned

before 1995

1.03-1.09 mm

between 1995 and 1998

0.75-0.81 mm for Europe

1.03-1.09 mm Others


1999 and after

0.65-0.71 with ACSD

0.85-0.91 mm without ACSD


Can someone telle me why so much difference for the same engine and what is the right information?

Thanks
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2013
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BC, Canada
FSM asks for a dial indicator to measure the plunger stroke for the IP, which I don’t have…is there a rule of thumb when it comes to this?

I had to replace the intake manifold gaskets and since all the fuel lines were out I figured I try to advance the IP timing (tilting the IP towards the engine) a bit in a hope for more power and/or lower EGT. The result was pretty good, I have around 5%-10% more power and EGT dropped ~70-100F. Am I risking anything by advancing the injection timing? Is there a way to tell if I went overboard?

I did notice is that I the engine ticking sound became a little bit more pronounced , but it’s still quiet compared to when I had a modified IP in the truck.
 
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mudgudgeon

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Rule of thumb is buy a dial indicator SST and use it.

You'll be surprised how little an amount of rotation it takes to shift the timing in or out of the specified range
 
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Jul 22, 2003
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Can someone telle me why so much difference for the same engine and what is the right information?

The European specs are most likely for emissions standards and they usually have higher cracking pressures for the injectors as well
 
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Mar 11, 2019
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80 Series 1HD-FT
FSM asks for a dial indicator to measure the plunger stroke for the IP, which I don’t have…is there a rule of thumb when it comes to this?

I had to replace the intake manifold gaskets and since all the fuel lines were out I figured I try to advance the IP timing (tilting the IP towards the engine) a bit in a hope for more power and/or lower EGT. The result was pretty good, I have around 5%-10% more power and EGT dropped ~70-100F. Am I risking anything by advancing the injection timing? Is there a way to tell if I went overboard?

I did notice is that I the engine ticking sound became a little bit more pronounced , but it’s still quiet compared to when I had a modified IP in the truck.

I was so worried also about getting it to the exact setting the FSM said when I first started playing around with static timing but keep in mind those numbers are for a stock standard engine with zero modifications. Don't be too concerned about not having the dial indicator for the exact measurement. Pumps all wear differently and timing will over time change anyways, even rebuilt ones from the same builder will be ever so slightly different in there delivery setups so you don't need to be dead on with a specific measurement. Plus everyone has different add on's and modifications which will all need a different setting to get the best performance to suit.

As a test I've done to see how it affects things I've tried all manner of positions from really retarded to as far advanced as I could rotate the pump. You'll know when you've gone to far either way. Too much retard will make it hard to start and cause white smoke when engine is warming up or even worse at all times due to unburnt fuel. Too much advance will sound like you have a bucket of bolts sitting on your engine and blows a lot of black smoke/soot. From what I've found, retard in general normally gets you higher EGT, engine noise is quieter, faster to build boost and less smoke. Advance generally gets lower EGT, more rattle from engine, slower boost response, more smoke. It was actually a really interesting experiment and you can really feel how it affects the way the car drives.

It's much easier to see and adjust this on a dyno but I have found it pretty easy to tell the difference between each adjustment while driving using the same stretch of road each time and also timing your runs for certain speeds. The setting that gave me the performance I was after is a little rattly on very light load but clears up all other times. With my pump set around the listed specs in the FSM the performance is greatly reduced compared to where I'm at now, but I also have an aftermarket rebuilt pump and lots of other changes so it's not really any surprise the original static timing specs don't give me the best performance for my setup.

I'm not qualified in anyway to offer professional advice on this subject so do this at your own risk. I like to tinker and learn about this stuff by working on my own car and fully accept any consequences that come in doing so but if you're adventurous and like tinkering have a play with different levels of timing and see how you go. If you don't have a dial indicator to measure where you are now just scribe a mark and use that as a reference.
 
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As a test I've done to see how it affects things I've tried all manner of positions from really retarded to as far advanced as I could rotate the pump. You'll know when you've gone to far either way. Too much retard will make it hard to start and cause white smoke when engine is warming up or even worse at all times due to unburnt fuel. Too much advance will sound like you have a bucket of bolts sitting on your engine and blows a lot of black smoke/soot. From what I've found, retard in general normally gets you higher EGT, engine noise is quieter, faster to build boost and less smoke. Advance generally gets lower EGT, more rattle from engine, slower boost response, more smoke. It was actually a really interesting experiment and you can really feel how it affects the way the car drives.

It's much easier to see and adjust this on a dyno but I have found it pretty easy to tell the difference between each adjustment while driving using the same stretch of road each time and also timing your runs for certain speeds. The setting that gave me the performance I was after is a little rattly on very light load but clears up all other times. With my pump set around the listed specs in the FSM the performance is greatly reduced compared to where I'm at now, but I also have an aftermarket rebuilt pump and lots of other changes so it's not really any surprise the original static timing specs don't give me the best performance for my setup.

I'm not qualified in anyway to offer professional advice on this subject so do this at your own risk. I like to tinker and learn about this stuff by working on my own car and fully accept any consequences that come in doing so but if you're adventurous and like tinkering have a play with different levels of timing and see how you go. If you don't have a dial indicator to measure where you are now just scribe a mark and use that as a reference.

Thank you for sharing this!
After some research I have found a pretty good article about the pros and cons of timing adjustments. They pretty much say what you just said.
Adjusting Diesel Engine Injection Timing

My pump is custom tuned with custom pin so I'm sure it's outside the factory specs already. I was worried not to cause damage.
I will play around with different settings to see where is the point where I start to notice any of the disadvantages of advancing. That will tell me how far I'm from that point. In order to keep things scientific after I found the sweet spot I might just get a dial indicator to see where the ideal performance setup landed me compared to the factory spec.
 
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Mar 25, 2021
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Melbourne, Australia
My tool arrived today and after figuring which bits to use and that i needed to remove the oil filter, i got to it aided by the bride facetiming me from the engine bay as i laid beneath the truck! Ive never done it in the 16 yrs/ 110k's ive owned the truck. I had thought that maybe it would be retarded as time has gone by.
Im unclear on whether it was retarded or advanced?
It was at 0.95. Ive moved it to 1.06, figured middle of the range to start with.
I cant say it was better or worse power wise, but it seems quieter and smoother. I reckon the water temp was sitting a tiny bit lower after the test run.
I have just fitted a new turbo, Holset HX30 super, so am trying to find its sweet spot.
Was just a quikie before dark, so will take it for a drive tomorrow.
 

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