So, has anyone imported an old FJ45 lwb pickup (1965) from Canada? My question is the import tax (Chicken) still enforced? And, if so, how is it calculated? Present day sales price or the price it was in 1965?
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Information Re: Importing to the USA and Complete DIY How-To (1 Viewer)
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- #122
Regarding whether the chicken tax is due on import, the law doesn't make any distinction between new and used trucks, so technically, yes, you're supposed to pay it.
That said, the tax is levied based on the HTS (Harmonized Tariff Schedule) code assigned to the vehicle on the entry form (7501), which will be completed by the Customs officer. If they're lazy or generous, they'll fill in a 8703 code, which is a general code for vehicles designed to carry people. The tariff on 8703 should be calculated at 2.5%. Your truck should probably have a 8704 HTS code, which is intended for vehicles designed to carry cargo. Tariff on 8704 code is 25% (the dreaded "chicken tax").
When I brought my HDJ80 in from Canada, the Customs officer who helped me used a 8704 code, which in my opinion is incorrect for my car, but since he only charged me 2.5% import duty (which he further rounded down to an even amount), I wasn't feeling like arguing with him about it. It seemed to me that the Customs officer had some discretion regarding how much duty to charge. He was a good guy, he was interested in my truck, and I got the feeling he didn't want to be the bureaucratic a$$hole that reamed me for huge import tax just because he could. Which is all to say it may all come down to luck. If you get a good dude (all I've encountered have been), they'll probably try and help you out.
Regarding how the value of your car is determined, there are several options. I had with me a copy of my Bill of Sale which listed the sale price, but the Customs officer thought that was too high (!) and instead looked up a comparable car in his little book (seemed similar to a KBB type thing). I was OK with the value he determined since it resulted in lower duty for me.
In addition to the Bill of Sale or the Kelly Blue Book (or equivalent), you can simply declare the value of the car. It's no different than when you're arriving from an international flight and Customs at the airport asks you if you have anything to declare. You're attesting to the US government (under penalty of perjury) that the value you've declared is the true value of the goods. Simple as that. Note that if they're suspicious you've intentionally under-valued your goods, they may ask for proof.
Not sure how helpful all that is. Lots of words.
That said, the tax is levied based on the HTS (Harmonized Tariff Schedule) code assigned to the vehicle on the entry form (7501), which will be completed by the Customs officer. If they're lazy or generous, they'll fill in a 8703 code, which is a general code for vehicles designed to carry people. The tariff on 8703 should be calculated at 2.5%. Your truck should probably have a 8704 HTS code, which is intended for vehicles designed to carry cargo. Tariff on 8704 code is 25% (the dreaded "chicken tax").
When I brought my HDJ80 in from Canada, the Customs officer who helped me used a 8704 code, which in my opinion is incorrect for my car, but since he only charged me 2.5% import duty (which he further rounded down to an even amount), I wasn't feeling like arguing with him about it. It seemed to me that the Customs officer had some discretion regarding how much duty to charge. He was a good guy, he was interested in my truck, and I got the feeling he didn't want to be the bureaucratic a$$hole that reamed me for huge import tax just because he could. Which is all to say it may all come down to luck. If you get a good dude (all I've encountered have been), they'll probably try and help you out.
Regarding how the value of your car is determined, there are several options. I had with me a copy of my Bill of Sale which listed the sale price, but the Customs officer thought that was too high (!) and instead looked up a comparable car in his little book (seemed similar to a KBB type thing). I was OK with the value he determined since it resulted in lower duty for me.
In addition to the Bill of Sale or the Kelly Blue Book (or equivalent), you can simply declare the value of the car. It's no different than when you're arriving from an international flight and Customs at the airport asks you if you have anything to declare. You're attesting to the US government (under penalty of perjury) that the value you've declared is the true value of the goods. Simple as that. Note that if they're suspicious you've intentionally under-valued your goods, they may ask for proof.
Not sure how helpful all that is. Lots of words.
Very helpful! Thanks.
Just had a good call with the DMW.. I gave them the VIN number of the car, but it did not show up in their register. The really nice lady then told me the way forward would be to register it as a "Collector Plate Vehicle" because it is over 25 years.. But If I read that website, the vehicle should then not have any alterations, which our Toyota has of course.. The additional Toyota Attest on the Rebuilt might help here.... Looking into it even a bit further, I might also be able to register it as Hobbyist vehicle. Any thoughts about this? I think I will make a second phone call in the coming weeks, because I want to understand if I can sell the Vehicle with Collector plates or Hobbyist plates, because we are now considering leaving the vehicle in the US.
So, if anyone here is interested in it, shoot me a message! It is a dream vehicle, and should be used for the thing we use it for!
Is it possible to import my 2001 LandCruiser 100 Diesel from Germany to the US now and just store it here until it turns 25 years old to avoid modifications to odometer and such?
Not legally, as far as I know.
Bringing it into the US is the act of importing and, as such, is dictated by the federal import laws which require the 25 years old (or other considerations, but that’s not relevant to your question).
Registering it is a state thing.
I stored my LC in Oz for a couple of years before I brought it over when in turned 25.
Bringing it into the US is the act of importing and, as such, is dictated by the federal import laws which require the 25 years old (or other considerations, but that’s not relevant to your question).
Registering it is a state thing.
I stored my LC in Oz for a couple of years before I brought it over when in turned 25.
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- #127
You could import it into Canada and store it there (Canada only requires imports be 15 years old). I did this with my HDJ80 while I waited for it to turn 25. Once it was old enough, I brought it across the border.
Sounds like storing the LC outside the US until it turns 25 years is the only option to avoid the modifications. Thank you all for the input!
I think that is your only legal option. Although the 100 series has been legally imported with modifications, I don’t think the diesel version is included as a possibility.
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- #130
EPA exemption is for 21 years old, so diesel would be OK. NHTSA exemption is 25 years, so 2001 car would need to be made FMVSS compliant.
Yes, my diesel LC is clear from the emissions stand point. The NHTSA one is holding the import back.
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- #132
It might be worth calling a Registered Importer (list in link above) to find out what’s involved in making your car compliant with the relevant FMVSS. Europe probably had similar safety specifications so it might be as simple as mph speedometer and maybe lighting. If it’s airbags and side impact protection or something like that, then probably not.
I’d guess since it has been done (ie the car is on “the list”) that it’s not too difficult.
I’d guess since it has been done (ie the car is on “the list”) that it’s not too difficult.
Yup, required in the 3 states I've registered imported vehicles. Florida requires a VIN verification by law enforcement too. Also, be sure to confirm what else is needed by DMV when translating, what degree of document certification. In MA its pretty much a translation and an affidavit that the translation is true and accurate; and costs me upwards of 200 bux.
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- #135
All true. Definitely check with your local DMV to see what their requirements are. Every state makes their own rules about this stuff.
In Colorado they require a translation of the original Title, but "anyone with knowledge of the language" can do it (i.e. you don't necessarily need to hire anyone to do the translation). It needs to be either notarized or signed under penalty of perjury (I do the latter, it saves a trip to a notary).
Colorado also needs:
--a VIN verification, which can be done at the DMV or State Patrol, or at some car dealerships.
--a copy of the DOT HS-7
--the original foreign title
--proof of entry through US Customs (usually the CBP 7501 form)
--a certified weight slip. I get mine at the local landscaping supply wholesaler--they have a scale)
--an odometer disclosure.
--proof of insurance
--the Bill of Sale
In addition, if the car is going to be registered along the Front Range of Colorado (roughly Ft. Collins to Pueblo), it is in what's called the Air Care Colorado Program Area and will require an emissions inspection to confirm that the emissions system hasn't been tampered with, and also an actual emissions test to check pollutants from the tailpipe.
With all that, I've never had a problem titling any imports here. Even if you're not in Colorado, this list should be a good start and would probably get the job done in most places.
In Colorado they require a translation of the original Title, but "anyone with knowledge of the language" can do it (i.e. you don't necessarily need to hire anyone to do the translation). It needs to be either notarized or signed under penalty of perjury (I do the latter, it saves a trip to a notary).
Colorado also needs:
--a VIN verification, which can be done at the DMV or State Patrol, or at some car dealerships.
--a copy of the DOT HS-7
--the original foreign title
--proof of entry through US Customs (usually the CBP 7501 form)
--a certified weight slip. I get mine at the local landscaping supply wholesaler--they have a scale)
--an odometer disclosure.
--proof of insurance
--the Bill of Sale
In addition, if the car is going to be registered along the Front Range of Colorado (roughly Ft. Collins to Pueblo), it is in what's called the Air Care Colorado Program Area and will require an emissions inspection to confirm that the emissions system hasn't been tampered with, and also an actual emissions test to check pollutants from the tailpipe.
With all that, I've never had a problem titling any imports here. Even if you're not in Colorado, this list should be a good start and would probably get the job done in most places.
I imported an HJ45 in 2020 from Honduras. I did pretty much everything myself. The 25% tax killed me. It was based on the sell price that I bought it for. I hope that helps.
Before you submit the required documents with translation to the DMV, did they inspect the vehicle for vin verification or fed label safety plate?
I registered in South Carolina, and they did not require me to show the vehicle or anything for registration or verification. I believe the customs certificates count as an inspection.
I am sorry. I thought you had registered it in Los Angeles. My mistake.. The folks in Cali are very anal with Vin inspections..
Drive it safe...
Drive it safe...
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- #140
Hey @edmond4822 , does California require that imported vehicles have the FMVSS compliance certification plate? That seems kinda silly since any car being imported that was originally built for a different market won't have one. Those plates are only affixed to vehicles built explicitly for the US market--there's no reason for a manufacturer to affix the plate or even conform to US FMVSS for a vehicle not intended for sale in the US.
That's the whole point of the 25-year import rule--it grants an exemption from US FMVSS, and thus an exemption from the requirement to have the certification plate.
I mean, California can make any requirements they want, but that would be a complete "game over" for anyone wanting to import a foreign-market car into California. Looks like @Rawloh44 has come up with a good workaround.
