Increasing Fuel Mileage? (1 Viewer)

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Apr 10, 2009
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Location
Tucson, AZ
The new FJ62 loves the gas. Haven't checked the mileage yet and it did pass emissions here in Az. I'm waiting on my manual to shop up. It has new plugs, cap, wires, etc. Haven't checked the timing or checked the valve lash yet.

Would new O2 sensors make any differences, the fact that they're 21 years old. What other small changes might there be that can make mileage improvements. BTW, It has 251,000 miles on it. Will synthetic oils make a difference? Dad sells Amzoil. Let me know what you think.

What about flashing the ECM? Are they able to do these puters?thx matt
 
x2 - buy a yaris!

And all the things you mention might help, marginally, as well as valves adj properly, etc.
 
What milage do you get with strictly highway driving. If it is 14+ mpg, don't expect to do much better. As for city milage :censor:
 
i heard you can get this magnet - put it on your fuel line and it will give you 50% better mileage! It aligns the molecules and wow what a difference that must make!!!





























A FJ6x does not get "good" gas mileage - accept it now. If you need good gas mileage get a motorcycle (more fun than a yugo), or a scooter (just don't let anyone see you riding it). LOL

rob
 
doesnt the 3fe have that magic screw on the head somewhere that comes loose all the time? look in the faq youll see what im talking about...
 
doesnt the 3fe have that magic screw on the head somewhere that comes loose all the time? look in the faq youll see what im talking about...

On the fuel pulsation damper. Some have reported a big jump in economy when that's fixed if the screw has come loose. Mine was still tight when I checked.
 
I forgot about that. The fuel pressure regulator thingy back by the fire wall. I know mine still has the plastic cap on it. I'll check it. matt
 
I got my '91 FJ80 from 10-11 mpg to 14 mpg by putting on MAF headers and a K&N air filter.

headerscomplete.jpg
 

LOL, smog control equipment. LOL

Seriously though, I'd lose the K&N. I like their oil filters, but their air filters will not work nearly as well as a stock Toyota filter. Plus the Toyota filter has a HUGE surface area for filtration so it actually flows incredibly well for the space it's installed in. Just keep it clean, dry and free of dust, and it'll last you for years.

You're sacrificing longevity for a psycological increase in performance. Your extra economy likely came from the headers (engine doesn't have to work as hard if your driving habits don't change) and any tune-up maintenance you've done since then.
 
I heard that you should replace your O2 sensors every X amount of miles. Is that true, or are they fine as long as you're check engine light is off?
 
I heard that you should replace your O2 sensors every X amount of miles. Is that true, or are they fine as long as you're check engine light is off?

I've heard that, but to be honest if it isn't throwing codes and you mileage is on par with what others are getting, I wouldn't spend the money. There is, however, a series of checks in the FSM you can run to make sure they are still working up to spec.
 
One of my O2 sensor mounts studs was broken, thing was loose held on by one bolt, could move it with my fingers, still didn't throw any CEL!!

Never hurts to check them!
 
I replaced my O2 sensors at 212K miles. The FSM says to replace them at 80K. I don't know if mine were original, but wouldn't be surprised. I suspect there is more than one fj62 running around with the original sensors. Maybe I could have squeezed a little more life out of mine, but I figured now would be a good time while they are still available for a semi-reasonable price. I also got 4 new OEM nuts. The old ones were pretty corroded. And finally, I removed the transmission hump cover to get at the rear O2 sensor. It takes a really long extension (two together actually) to get to the rear O2 sensor nuts from inside the Cruiser once the transmission cover is off, but it was really easy from there. You'll see what I mean if yours still has the shield on the rear O2 sensor. The connector for the rear O2 sensor lies on top of the transmission also. It would be really tough to get at without the transmission cover removed. While you are in there, you might as well replace both sets of rubber grommets and brass bushings in the shift linkage to clean up a little shifter slop. Coupled with replacing the plastic bushings at the base of the shifter stick made shifter slop disappear. There is zero wiggle.

I also swapped out the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pulsation dampener, both known to cause fuel delivery issues as they age.

There is a direct relationship to a vehicles weight and the fuel economy you can expect. A five thousand pound behemoth takes a lot of energy to move it around, especially from a stop. The new vehicle sticker shows epa estimates of 12 mpg city and 14 mpg highway. You probably won't do any better than that considering fuel economy doesn't improve with age.

And I agree with Spook about the K&N air filters. About the time they finally plug up enough to actually filter out the fine dust, you wash them out. My brother-in-law is a Ford mechanic, and Ford has been known to not honor their warranty when the Mass Air Flow Sensor goes bad if you have been using a K&N or similar air filter. Something about the oil from the filter gumming up the MAF.
 
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In double low on the big rocks my FJ60 only gets 5 mpg and on the nice smooth road the FJ60 will get 14.5 mpg if I keep the speed down to about 60 mph. My Honda Civic won't run anymore if I tried to drive it over the big rocks but on the nice smooth road it gets 40 mpg.
 
Drive slower. Highway gas mileage goes way up if you slow down. Hard to do, though.

this is soooo true

my moms 05 dodge 2500 with the cummins gets around 19 or 20mpg at 70 or 75mph... if you slow down to 55 or 60, it gets almost 30mpg
 
In double low on the big rocks my FJ60 only gets 5 mpg and on the nice smooth road the FJ60 will get 14.5 mpg if I keep the speed down to about 60 mph. My Honda Civic won't run anymore if I tried to drive it over the big rocks but on the nice smooth road it gets 40 mpg.
There is a lot to be said for picking the right tool for the job at hand.
 

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