In cab switch wiring questions (1 Viewer)

[OffRoadRN]

I am hoping to wire an in cab switch for my air compressor. I am hoping to have it "negative switched" meaning I will just run a ground wire through the firewall to the switch. I am planning on following these diagrams from Overland Bound. My question is, how would I wire this to my switch? Do I still need 12v power to it from inside the cab, or only if I want the switch LED to work? I am only doing one accessory, so instead of a fuse block I will just have an inline fuse between the battery and relay.

My second question is, can anyone tell me what wires I can tap into on a 100 series that are on the 'dash light circuit' for the LEDs on my switch?

Thanks!

 

[TreadingLight]

I had some issues with the ch4x4 switches and had to exchange a few due to quality issues. I had a couple that just flat didn't work, with high resistance on the switched circuit. I had others that worked but the illumination was wrong (ex: one of the dual switches that should have been blue were half blue and half green). They were very responsive with exchanges.

If you do use these switches, I recommend you wire them to switch the positive side. I had issues on another install with switched ground, as the illumination for the switch closed position was dependent on the green wire being on +12v. The switch illumination wouldn't act right.

As for where to tap, on a 100 series I would look at the illumination on the cigarette lighter or one of the nearby switches. You won't have much slack in the wire so butt splices may not fit. In a tight spot like this, you can t-splice into the factory harness without cutting it using this technique:

Best and favorite way to splice into OEM wiring harnesses?

I'm looking to add lights to my new RTV-XG850. What's your favorite and best way to splice into OEM wires for power? Assume you only have a couple inches of OEM wire to work with. Anyone who answers with one of these POSs will be automatically ignored:

tractorbynet.com

Re-insulate it with liquid electrical tape.

 

[OffRoadRN]

I had some issues with the ch4x4 switches and had to exchange a few due to quality issues. I had a couple that just flat didn't work, with high resistance on the switched circuit. I had others that worked but the illumination was wrong (ex: one of the dual switches that should have been blue were half blue and half green). They were very responsive with exchanges.

If you do use these switches, I recommend you wire them to switch the positive side. I had issues on another install with switched ground, as the illumination for the switch closed position was dependent on the green wire being on +12v. The switch illumination wouldn't act right.

As for where to tap, on a 100 series I would look at the illumination on the cigarette lighter or one of the nearby switches. You won't have much slack in the wire so butt splices may not fit. In a tight spot like this, you can t-splice into the factory harness without cutting it using this technique:

Best and favorite way to splice into OEM wiring harnesses?

I'm looking to add lights to my new RTV-XG850. What's your favorite and best way to splice into OEM wires for power? Assume you only have a couple inches of OEM wire to work with. Anyone who answers with one of these POSs will be automatically ignored:

tractorbynet.com

Re-insulate it with liquid electrical tape.

Thanks for the info. I ended up switching the positive side. So far my switches have been working fine with the correct colors, though I couldn’t get the dash circuit lighting to work. I followed another 100 owners example, but it still didn’t work. I wonder if it is due to the switch and not my wiring now that I read your comments. Did you end up finding a switch you like better than CH4x4?

 

[TreadingLight]

Thanks for the info. I ended up switching the positive side. So far my switches have been working fine with the correct colors, though I couldn’t get the dash circuit lighting to work. I followed another 100 owners example, but it still didn’t work. I wonder if it is due to the switch and not my wiring now that I read your comments. Did you end up finding a switch you like better than CH4x4?

Not that fits in factory spaces in the dash. You can get small airplane toggles and install them in a switch blank. Or I am considering repurposing Toyota factory switches and relabeling them (ex: fog light switches).

You can test your switch with a 12v battery and some test leads. That's what I did with my ch4x4 switches to find the bad ones in my batch.

 

[LandLocked93]

Thanks for the info. I ended up switching the positive side. So far my switches have been working fine with the correct colors, though I couldn’t get the dash circuit lighting to work. I followed another 100 owners example, but it still didn’t work. I wonder if it is due to the switch and not my wiring now that I read your comments. Did you end up finding a switch you like better than CH4x4?

Do you have a tank?
You can switch the pressure switch instead of power to the compressors. This keeps from needing a relay on that circuit. (retain the relay to the pump tho)
Goes something like :
Power > dash switch > pressure switch > trigger on relay for power to pump > ground.

 

[ntsqd]

Switches that fit the OE locations are nice and I've re-purposed one for the 4rrnr's OBA (wired exactly as above) that sees an occasional turning off, but for switches that see frequent use I've been moving to buying Honeywell TL series switches off amazon. A true, Mil-Spec sealed toggle switch.