IMPORTANT: Check your HVAC recirculate door and answer Poll (3 Viewers)

[John E Davies]

This is REALLY important, it affects how well your system defogs in winter and cools in summer, and if a small amount of damage is caught early it could save you MANY hundreds of dollars. My door hinge is busted, probably by somebody who forced it open, not understanding how to correctly access the cabin air filter.

Even if you think your door is working fine, it only takes a minute to check it and please answer the poll. Multiple answers are OK - for example "door hinge broken" and also "actuator buzzes".

Turn ignition ON.

Switch the Recirculate button ON. This _should_ raise the rotating door to the up position, you will hear a soft "bzzzzzzt" sound from the glovebox area.

Remove the stuff from the top glove box tray and remove the tray (pull out).

Remove the rectangular access panel for the filter (two clips on top, pull toward you).

Inspect the recirc door, it should look like this, the cabin filter is visible below it:

Turn ignition ON and operate the door by cycling the Recirc off and on. You should see this when Recirc is OFF, the door has rotated down:

If the door operates smoothly without any problems, great. Change the filter if it is dirty and put it back together.

If the door sticks or binds there is a problem with the linkage.

If the door does not move the outboard hinge hole or linkage shaft is broken or stripped. Grab the upper edge of the door and move it full travel, and you should be able to get an idea where the problem is. Push the door DOWN and leave it there if your door is screwed up!!! That will give you the best defrost operation in winter.

If your door is screwed up you will have to remove this blower assembly, on the right:

It might be possible to repair the damage. The street cost of a new assembly including fan and motor is $425+. I am researching whether or not sub-parts are available.

Finally, write a warning on the filter cover, to prevent the next clueless drone from destroying the door:

I contributed to this thread with some questions:

Cabin Filter Change and the Recirculation Flap Issues FIXED

I will start a brand new thread with lots of pics when I get around to changing out or fixing the busted door.

If your door is messed up (or has been and was fixed) please add a comment below with year and description of the situation.

Thanks,

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[Willy beamin]

nice job - look forward to your full write-up

 

[ckkone]

Mine was borken, I was able to fix it by JB Plastic Welding the broken hinge to the plastic motor shaft. I had to use some long flat screwdrivers and pic tools to reach in there and apply the plastic weld. Its been a few months and its still working fine. I could not find a part number for just the flapper door, only the entire HVAC assembly.

 

[TWillz]

Mine was broken before I purchased it but I didn't realize it. Whatever part is broken causes some major vibration in my steering wheel whenever the hvac system is powered on. Going to be digging into it as soon as I get a chance and hopefully the linkage has just popped off and isn't completely broken.

 

[Sandroad]

GREAT idea to write on the access plate that you need to use the recirculate button! It is likely a very common "mistake" to force that sliding door up to access the filter (never to close again).

 

[Yossarian]

Just confirmed, recirc door INOP . Time to call the dealer, last who touched it.

 

[FerzLC]

Ok...so. Mine worked. Butt there was a couple table spoons of water on the filter. Any one know why or have that???

 

[John E Davies]

I want to add this..... If your truck was only dealer maintained and has an inoperative recirc door, then most likely one of their techs messed it up.

Or, it could just be a random failure due to a weak design, or getting overloaded when the door froze shut one winter night!

If in warranty, I would insist on a brand new replacement housing and actuator. I was quoted 1.5 hours to swap it by my local dealer, tho I cannot confirn the flat rate allowance. They wanted $649 for a new assembly, full MSRP.

If out of warranty, it will be darned hard to prove that the dealer did it, especially if there was a previous owner and a less than perfect maintenance record.

It’s a Catch 22.....The main problem is that if you follow the instructions in the Owners Manual, EXACTLY as I did when I first bought this used truck, you don’t see the door hanging down. You don’t know if it is working or not! Only if you cycle it with the switch while watching can you tell for sure. Or grab the door and give it a wiggle to see if it flops down.

The filter door really should have had a factory warning on it from the manufacturer, since the consequences of an idiot forcing it up can be so serious. Better yet, the programming should default to the Recirc position at shutdown, so there would be no need to get the door up and out of the way at all, since it would “park itself” there.

Every time I think about the design of this thing, it makes me mad. Does anyone know if this part is shared with other models, and do those trucks also have problems?

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[Yossarian]

FYI, I had the blower motor replaced under warranty by the same dealer a year or so ago. They've been in there, and thankfully the LC is still under warranty.

 

[TonyP]

Well, I'm on board with this thread. Had a peak at mine, it's broken too. I'm going to try some JB Weld.

I'm getting slightly discouraged by the little issues popping up lately. The Tacoma at the dealer I stopped by today was looking mighty nice...

 

[John E Davies]

Well, I'm on board with this thread. Had a peak at mine, it's broken too. I'm going to try some JB Weld.

The shaft that goes into the door has grease on it, so try to retract it manually out to where you can get to it, and clean it and the door hole squeaky clean. You can access this area by removing the airbag and glovebox, and the module bracket that is directly in line with the actuator.

You can try spraying contact cleaner in there and just hope for the best, but it won’t be what you would call a high quality repair. Good luck.

If I were going to attempt a “glue in place” repair I would use a polymer safe degreaser, to prevent melting something, like this gun cleaner. ... https://www.amazon.com/Shooters-Choice-Polymer-Firearms-Cleaner/dp/B000U43CX8

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[TonyP]

The shaft that goes into the door has grease on it, so try to retract it manually out to where you can get to it, and clean it and the door hole squeaky clean. You can access this area by removing the airbag and glovebox, and the module bracket that is directly in line with the actuator.

You can try spraying contact cleaner in there and just hope for the best, but it won’t be what you would call a high quality repair. Good luck.

View attachment 1571804

If I were going to attempt a “glue in place” repair I would use a polymer safe degreaser, to prevent melting something, like this gun cleaner.

John Davies
Spokane WA

Right on. Will do. I'll post up my results.

My door hinge is cracked just like yours. Guess I'll keep it closed for now.

 

[40Man]

I lock my glovebox and never give a tech the metal key, only the FOB.

 

[FerzLC]

Ok...so. Mine worked. Butt there was a couple table spoons of water on the filter. Any one know why or have that???

 

[Yossarian]

I lock my glovebox and never give a tech the metal key, only the FOB.

Good idea, from here on out.....

 

[TonyP]

Here's mine. The broken part was just rattling around in there. I put some plastic JB Weld on there and it's holding so far and cycling as it's suppose to. I'm going to put another dab of JB Weld on there before I close it up and call it good.

 

[auggafj80]

Mine was stuck in recirc for probably a year. Fixed it thanks to this and other discussions on here. Fortunately it was just the tab being out of the guide. I do my own work on the truck so I blame the PO!

 

[TonyP]

My fabricobble didn't work. I'll be pulling the dash apart tomorrow.

Anyone that's done this, can you remove the door/flap without removing the entire blower assembly? Pull the servo pins and slide it out? This way I can pull it out and give it a proper gluing.

 

[John E Davies]

My fabricobble didn't work. I'll be pulling the dash apart tomorrow.

Anyone that's done this, can you remove the door/flap without removing the entire blower assembly? Pull the servo pins and slide it out? This way I can pull it out and give it a proper gluing.

I pulled the airbag and glovebox for access, and I was unable to figure out a way to get the door out, the lip of the inner opening prevents the pin on the left side of the door from coming out of the hole far enough.

It may be posdible to get in there with a small grinder (dremel) and grind away enough of that inner lip to get it out, but you need to be careful that what you leave behind won’t cause any problems like binding or shifting sideways. You also need to keep all the debris out of the fan.

If you pull the entire box out, you should be able to split the halves (screws) and get the door out easily, unless the halves are gued also.

Good luck. Please post pics and a good story.

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[TonyP]

I pulled the airbag and glovebox for access, and I was unable to figure out a way to get the door out, the lip of the inner opening prevents the pin on the left side of the door from coming out of the hole far enough.

It may be posdible to get in there with a small grinder (dremel) and grind away enough of that inner lip to get it out, but you need to be careful that what you leave behind won’t cause any problems like binding or shifting sideways. You also need to keep all the debris out of the fan.

If you pull the entire box out, you should be able to split the halves (screws) and get the door out easily, unless the halves are gued also.

Good luck. Please post pics and a good story.

John Davies
Spokane WA

Good info. It looks like it might be possible but we'll see.

I don't mind pulling the entire box, the only issue is the FSM calls for dash (and A/C) removal for pulling the box. That seems a bit overblown from what I see. I'll give it a go this weekend and see what I can come up with.