I’m thinking about pulling the engine any advice. (1 Viewer)

[declan mcgrath]

I got a 1970 40 and I’m thinking about pulling the engine just to reseal everything and I was just wondering how hard it was for everyone else and I was looking for a good gasket kit for it or a good rebuild Guide. Any and advice is greatly appreciated thanks.

 

[fjl40]

Do you need to pull the engine to change the gaskets that are leaking? Do you plan on doing more once the engine is pulled, clutch, engine mounts etc. You could check with @65swb45 for a gasket kit. He may chime in. As far as how difficult pulling an engine depends on your skill level. What's easy for some can be challenging for others.

 

[flee]

Do a compression check with the engine in place. Your leaks could be from tired or broken rings pushing the oil out the way mine was.
Everything but the front and rear main seals could be done without pulling the engine and for those you just need to lift it out a foot or so.

 

[SteveH]

Powerwash everything you can at a hose-me-down car wash before you pull the engine. There's nothing worse than a sludge-covered engine on a clean garage floor.

While you have it out, do your manifold gasket, as well as all the leaky oil gaskets, and freshen up the engine compartment.

 

[fjwagon]

I agree on taking compression reading, cleaning up the engine up some before starting. Make a list and follow it. It's not like buying a loaf of bread. it's pretty easy to miss something especially if life gets in way. Check your wiring is good, no broken insulation, good terminals, no loose hardware, no broken strands on the wiring...etc. and then Drive it around some and see where the leaks are coming from. I work on maintaining equipment so I'm used to doing other things to it like aligning the vavles, do a visual/listening checks for worn out components and maybe consider replacing the oil pump. You spend a little money doing this but will be worth it.

 

[kerplunk]

Be aware of the rabbit hole and prepare the budget.
Get some of that gunk engine degreaser (I've used to autozone version) spray on hose off under the hood cleaner. Warning, things will start rusting once the oil is cleaned off.
You're going to have to remove all the heater and radiator hoses. You'll at least need new antifreeze. Flushing it first will mean it's only going to be water spilling out.
Probably going to find it easiest to remove alternator and power steering pump (how old are your belts).
Fuel line?
I've never pulled an engine out of an fj40, but believe is easiest with the apron off. How rusty are the bolts holding that to the fenders?

If this is your first time pulling an engine, be aware of guys trying to convince you it's quicker to just tie someone up out of the way. Once the engine is hanging, and you're trying to move it in / out of the vehicle, bumping things with a 300 pound (I think it's more) engine breaks things (i.e. PS pump, fuel pump, distributor).

And if you disconnect and leave transmission and xfer case blocked up, you can't move the chassis. If you pull them, and leave the driveshafts "tied up" I've seen that fail pretty spectacularly moving the chassis also.

So now, what other "consumable" type parts are you going to want to buy new since it's already removed?

 

[flee]

More items for your shopping list:
Transmission input shaft seal and front trans cover gasket. Get some gear oil-proof sealant to keep things dry.
Also get sealant for the water pump, thermostat and oil pan, lifter cover and timing cover.

 

[71FFJ40]

If you're going through all that trouble to pull the engine why not go full blast and rebuild it while you have it out?
Seems like a lot of work just to change gaskets

 

[declan mcgrath]

If you're going through all that trouble to pull the engine why not go full blast and rebuild it while you have it out?
Seems like a lot of work just to change gaskets
[/QUOT

I probably will just end up rebuilding the engine

 

[declan mcgrath]

Do a compression check with the engine in place. Your leaks could be from tired or broken rings pushing the oil out the way mine was.
Everything but the front and rear main seals could be done without pulling the engine and for those you just need to lift it out a foot or so.

You see the block it’s self isn’t leaking it’s just getting that built up old oil look and it’s always something new each week you know. But I do a pressure test to see if any thing is leaking just to be safe. Thanks man

 

[declan mcgrath]

Be aware of the rabbit hole and prepare the budget.
Get some of that gunk engine degreaser (I've used to autozone version) spray on hose off under the hood cleaner. Warning, things will start rusting once the oil is cleaned off.
You're going to have to remove all the heater and radiator hoses. You'll at least need new antifreeze. Flushing it first will mean it's only going to be water spilling out.
Probably going to find it easiest to remove alternator and power steering pump (how old are your belts).
Fuel line?
I've never pulled an engine out of an fj40, but believe is easiest with the apron off. How rusty are the bolts holding that to the fenders?

If this is your first time pulling an engine, be aware of guys trying to convince you it's quicker to just tie someone up out of the way. Once the engine is hanging, and you're trying to move it in / out of the vehicle, bumping things with a 300 pound (I think it's more) engine breaks things (i.e. PS pump, fuel pump, distributor).

And if you disconnect and leave transmission and xfer case blocked up, you can't move the chassis. If you pull them, and leave the driveshafts "tied up" I've seen that fail pretty spectacularly moving the chassis also.

So now, what other "consumable" type parts are you going to want to buy new since it's already removed?

Wow thanks man and I have pulled engines In The past but this is my first time pulling a I6 so I’m just a little hesitant you know. Also like ever bout is pretty rusty so I’m gunna be using a lot of pb blaster on this pig. My belts and fuel lines are pretty new.

 

[declan mcgrath]

I agree on taking compression reading, cleaning up the engine up some before starting. Make a list and follow it. It's not like buying a loaf of bread. it's pretty easy to miss something especially if life gets in way. Check your wiring is good, no broken insulation, good terminals, no loose hardware, no broken strands on the wiring...etc. and then Drive it around some and see where the leaks are coming from. I work on maintaining equipment so I'm used to doing other things to it like aligning the vavles, do a visual/listening checks for worn out components and maybe consider replacing the oil pump. You spend a little money doing this but will be worth it.

My wiring is pretty old and brittle so that’s my next project after this and it probably a good idea to replace that oil pump. Thanks man

 

[greenbeasty]

I wouldn't start with a Nuclear Option!
Clean the engine like SteveH said, drive it a while, figure out exactly what it needs, and more impotently, DOESN"T need.
Trust me, you do not want to start this , then 5 years from now, while looking at the project you never finished, wish you had been driving your 40 for the last five years.
Go slow, drive it and enjoy.

 

[declan mcgrath]

I wouldn't start with a Nuclear Option!
Clean the engine like SteveH said, drive it a while, figure out exactly what it needs, and more impotently, DOESN"T need.
Trust me, you do not want to start this , then 5 years from now, while looking at the project you never finished, wish you had been driving your 40 for the last five years.
Go slow, drive it and enjoy.

I’ve been trying to figure out a lot about this engine it just weird. But I’ll clean it up really good and figure out exactly what I’ll need for it .

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Coming soon; declan's restomod thread

 

[Skreddy]

A friend of mine used the uv dye in his Ford 427 engine to find leaks before pulling it. Cleaned the engine up really well with the engine cleaner foam, added the uv dye, drove it a week or so then checked with the black light. What he thought was a rear main leak was just the rear of a valve cover seeping. May try that before pulling it. Clean it, compression test, leakdown, vacuum reading while running; I’d do these first so you know if you need to do more or less. Would suck to pull it, clean, reseal, paint, clean up engine bay then find out you are really low compression or some other issue and you’ll have to do it all over again.

 

[declan mcgrath]

Coming soon; declan's restomod thread

To true I might be opening a can of worms here

 

[declan mcgrath]

A friend of mine used the uv dye in his Ford 427 engine to find leaks before pulling it. Cleaned the engine up really well with the engine cleaner foam, added the uv dye, drove it a week or so then checked with the black light. What he thought was a rear main leak was just the rear of a valve cover seeping. May try that before pulling it. Clean it, compression test, leakdown, vacuum reading while running; I’d do these first so you know if you need to do more or less. Would suck to pull it, clean, reseal, paint, clean up engine bay then find out you are really low compression or some other issue and you’ll have to do it all over again.

Thank you definitely will do a compression test and a UV test just to make sure, thanks for the uv tip I wouldn’t have thought of that.

 

[65swb45]

Agree with the others on doing as much assessment ‘in’ truck as possible. If you need help with a custom gasket set, my contact info is linked in my sig line.