I'm going in to tighten/fix loose wheel bearing any tips??? (2 Viewers)

[bwr9300]

I've got a loose wheel bearing, no grinding. I've read a lot on here about wheel bearings. I'm no mechanic, my buddy's got a good bit of experience working on his 90 toyota pickup, but doesnt have any wheel bearing experience.

I read a couple guys went in, pulled off drive flange, tightened, and were done. If it appears the bearing is in good shape, I presume that's all I'm going to do. Any tips?

 

[lndcruz]

I did it on mine. So far so good.

 

[spdwaver]

I did this last week. Just make sure you don't damage the holes on the flange, where the cone washers reside, when trying to hammer them out. That's my advice.

Oh, and the correct snap ring pliers will help also; instead of using a modified pair of needle nose pliers to remove and replace the snap ring.

 

[bwr9300]

what'd you do just remove drive flange, tighten wheel bearing, then put wheel back on? any help with specifics would be good

 

[IdahoDoug]

Don't even take the wheel off. Just remove the drive flange, remove the locking stuff and the large locking nut (without turning the other nut), then tighten the other nut until you can barely discern any movement/rocking of the bearing using the tire. Reinstall the lock nut, etc. I jack the tire off the ground. I try to get it so I can feel slight movement, then just a tweak tighter - barely.

DougM

 

[bwr9300]

right on. Thanks doug. I have the wheel off, but sounds like its best for me just to put it back on. the drive flange, is that the "axle hub flange" ("" is from fsm)?

 

[IdahoDoug]

Yes, the "axle hub flange" has the 6 tapered washers in it and the splined hole that fits the axle tip. I feel with the tire/wheel on you have better leverage to see if there's still slack in the bearing though you can certainly do it as you have it. Don't forget to liberally smear grease in those splines and the hole on assembly, and keep the very low torque setting of the tapered washer bolts in mind.

DougM

 

[bwr9300]

ok, any tips for the cone washers?

 

[spdwaver]

what'd you do just remove drive flange, tighten wheel bearing, then put wheel back on? any help with specifics would be good

In order, as I remember it, assuming the vehicle has been safely lifted and the wheel has been removed:

1. Remove two 15mm brake caliper bolts.
2. Remove caliper from rotor, placing it off to the side.
3. Remove six 17mm bolts from rotor.
4. Remove dust cap from flange.
5. Remove snap ring (c-clip) from axle end.
6. Remove six nuts (either 10mm or 12mm) from flange. Then, remove the cone washers CAREFULLY with a hammer.
7. You should now have access to the 54mm nut, which is held in place by a washer with tabs on it. Bend the tabs clear of the washer, then tighten the nut according to specs.

 

[spdwaver]

Yes, the "axle hub flange" has the 6 tapered washers in it and the splined hole that fits the axle tip. I feel with the tire/wheel on you have better leverage to see if there's still slack in the bearing though you can certainly do it as you have it. Don't forget to liberally smear grease in those splines and the hole on assembly, and keep the very low torque setting of the tapered washer bolts in mind.

DougM

Excellent advice.

 

[bwr9300]

got cone washers off... any tips now on where to get a frippin 54 mm socket?

 

[bwr9300]

i got a 54 mm socket from A to Z rental, but its too big to fit in around the lock nut. What do yall use to tighten the lock nut?

 

[spdwaver]

i got a 54 mm socket from A to Z rental, but its too big to fit in around the lock nut. What do yall use to tighten the lock nut?

I have read on this forum that you can use a (I think) 55mm socket, of which I have seen at Kragen and Pep Boys. The socket itself is not round on the outside, but is to the shape of the inside; is that what you are using?

 

[spdwaver]

Did it look like this?

 

[mikeprince]

Don't even take the wheel off. Just remove the drive flange, remove the locking stuff and the large locking nut (without turning the other nut), then tighten the other nut until you can barely discern any movement/rocking of the bearing using the tire. Reinstall the lock nut, etc. I jack the tire off the ground. I try to get it so I can feel slight movement, then just a tweak tighter - barely.

DougM

If you leave the tire on you can't verify the preload.

It's not that much more work to do the job right: remove tire and brake and use a fish scale to verify bearing preload (6-12ftlbs) while you are tightening the spindle nuts. Lots of good write-ups on this.

 

[coax]

got cone washers off... any tips now on where to get a frippin 54 mm socket?

Did it look like this?

Yep, I got mine online from sears....the locknut/wheel bearing sockets dont have as thick of walls.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00971288000P?keyword=54mm+socket

 

[jlm43]

Heres a question, if it is 6 to 12 foot pounds, should it be 6 to 12 pounds at the lug nut? When I did mine, i used (IIRC) 24 to 48 pounds on a fish scale. My reasoning is because the lug nut studs are approx. 3 inches from the center of the hub. Which is a quarter of a foot. So if you are measuring from the stud, you should multiply the fish scale reading by 4. And you should also make sure to pull at a 90 degree angle from the center. Otherwise your readings would be off.

I pulled my wheel off and pulled the flange off. Took out the outer bearing and cleaned it and cleaned the race. Both looked like new so I repacked the bearing and pumped some grease into the cavity between the two bearings and reassembled. I did the fish scale thing and the bearings felt perfect. I buttoned it back up and so far, everything is good. I figured since that procedure works on the planes and corporate jets I have worked on, it should be fine for a truck. Good luck, it really isn't that bad. Took me about 2 and half hours to do both sides.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Hey, just noticed you're only about 30 miles from me. You can get the one noted above at Sears which is what I use. Someone I thought mentioned NAPA had one. But be sure when you call around that you specify a thin wall type like that shown in post 16. In this massive size, the 'real' sockets are going to be hugely thick and won't fit so if you just find one over the phone without adding that clause you'll get there and find a massive socket.

DougM

 

[bwr9300]

Hey, just noticed you're only about 30 miles from me. You can get the one noted above at Sears which is what I use. Someone I thought mentioned NAPA had one. But be sure when you call around that you specify a thin wall type like that shown in post 16. In this massive size, the 'real' sockets are going to be hugely thick and won't fit so if you just find one over the phone without adding that clause you'll get there and find a massive socket.

DougM

Thanks doug for your help on this. Thanks to all who replied. Doug, I thought you might've not seen it but in
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/379774-3-months-down-baselining-done-your-02-knowledge.html

I made a comment about looking for your landcruiser everytime I'm over in CDA. I followed your advice on tightening this bearing... most probably won't approve of what I did, but not having a thin enough socket to do the job its much tighter now than before, I took a big set of pliers and tightened the bearing. It was wicked loose. Wheel didn't have any play with hands at 12 and 6 o'clock. (my buddy had a big container of wheel bearing grease we "liberally" added too). Thanks again

 

[hawaiicruz]

Sounds like that should take care of it, but you're eventually gonna want to get in there and take everything apart and clean and repack the bearings at least... if not a complete axle service. great info in the FAQs for this https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/78276-front-axle-rebuild-faq.html this really helped me when I repacked and adjusted my wheel bearings