I'm confuzzled ... need....Oil Leak Help (1 Viewer)

[mrlocksmith]

Oll Leak:

My 1986 FJ60 has the nickname “Leaky” for a reason I have spent lots of time chasing down leaks and replacing gaskets etc. Here is one that has me confuzzled.

I get a leak that appears to be coming from the rear main seal which I replaced last November. The oil only leaks when the motor is running and it is most noticeable during a long trip. I will lose about 1/2 a QT every 700 miles or so and everything from the back of the flywheel, clutch+bell housing, tranny and drive shafts get covered in oil (I mean rust proofing ... ). Here is a list of work I have done which has not as of this date solved the problem.

1) Replaced Oil Pan and Gasket Gasket
2) Rear Main Seal w/ clutch job
3) Rebuilt T-case and all gaskets during a H55F install
4) Edit: Threaded Oil Galley Plug Installed between cyl 5-6

After the oil pan and gasket install there were no more leaks while it is parked so the only thing left is a seal that is exposed to oil with the vehicle in motion.


The bottom of the front of the oil pan has a bit of oil seepage but when I drive on a fine dusty road there is not evidence of oil getting on the oil pan itself so I am ruling that one out,

My best guess is that when the rear main was replaced, the seal was not put in properly or was torn.

Any other ideas???

I plan to drop the tranny over the next weekend and replace the Rear Main (Again) in the hope that that is the problem.

Thanks


Mark

 

[2mbb]

There are two push rod covers on the side of the engine where the distributor is. There is also an oil galley plug (pressed in plug) in the same vicinity. I would inspect these. I've had good luck with these foaming engine cleaners (for the outside of the engine) or go to a wash yourself car wash and clean off the area. Just make sure you don't directly spray water on the distributor. Once it's clean you can find the leaks more easily.

 

[RockDoc]

Valve cover gasket?

 

[John McVicker]

You might want to check the gasket and/or the hoses going to the oil cooler located on the pass. side right around the oil filter. I think there is also some sort of gasket that attaches to the oil filter bracket. Not certain if this one could be the problem but more likely the oil cooler gasket could cause this problem.

I am interested in knowing as I also am chasing a similar leak.

John

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Disclaimer: Mine no longer leaks, or has not started leaking again yet.

There are 3 or maybe 4 choices.

1-The oil pan gasket. I don't care if it's new, it leaks. Especially if you did not install yourself and clean every speck of the old gasket off. In fact, before doing anything else, replace this gasket again.

2-Main seal. It's easy to fawk up the install, but it tends to leak a lot when not put in properly.

3--The cam plug. This is near the main seal, and looks like a main seal leak. You need to get the new expansion plug from Toyota, then drop the tranny, flywheel, bellhousing and clutch bits.

4--Coming from above. It's common for a side cover leak to drip down into the bellhousing and look like a main seal leak. Valve cover can do the same thing.

 

[mrlocksmith]

I will check the pushrod covers and the oil pan again. I find it hard to see how a valve cover or pushrod cover leak can make this much of a mess and yet not be obvious to see on the motor. At the same time they are easy to replace before I drop the tranny.

BTW: Andrew, I am already on oil gasket #2 doing the work myself. The first time I did not seat it right on the front under the timing cover. I would hope that a good oil pan gasket install would = no leaks while parked.

Mark

 

[mrlocksmith]

Anybody have Toyota P/N's for

The cam plug. This is near the main seal, and looks like a main seal leak. You need to get the new expansion plug from Toyota, then drop the tranny, flywheel, bellhousing and clutch bits.

Thanks

Mark

 

[MJM]

Side Cover

I had a leak that and it was the side cover. Oil would drip out and work its way to the back and drip down. It looked like a rear main seal but it was not. You need to pull the dissy to replace it properly and now now more leaks.

 

[cruiser88]

If you pull the oil pan again use the one piece gasket.

 

[D'Animal]

Did you retighten the pan gasket after you installed it?

You do not want to overtorque it.

 

[SDFJ60JFK]

This is all good info. But you must use toyota parts.

Get the main seal, pan gasket, cam plug, from the dealer. This should be less than $100. Is your pan leaking at the weld on the skid plate?

The cam plug on my 60 had radial pattern rub marks on it when I removed it with 200K miles on it. It was leaking where the plug had been filed through by the end of the cam or whatever. The plug was available at the dealer 4 years ago. It is just a freeze plug. (metric sized) I filled and covered mine with FIPG to make sure that it was sealed.. Clean everything very clean. Brake clean is your friend.

Oh yeah I have no leaks. 30 K miles. Later. Check all of the easy gaskets first. Again USE OEM. If you have not already done most of the gasket a master gasket kit from the dealer might be the way to go.

John

Disclaimer: Mine no longer leaks, or has not started leaking again yet.

There are 3 or maybe 4 choices.

1-The oil pan gasket. I don't care if it's new, it leaks. Especially if you did not install yourself and clean every speck of the old gasket off. In fact, before doing anything else, replace this gasket again.

2-Main seal. It's easy to fawk up the install, but it tends to leak a lot when not put in properly.

3--The cam plug. This is near the main seal, and looks like a main seal leak. You need to get the new expansion plug from Toyota, then drop the tranny, flywheel, bellhousing and clutch bits.

4--Coming from above. It's common for a side cover leak to drip down into the bellhousing and look like a main seal leak. Valve cover can do the same thing.

 

[Toadhopper]

I'd call Cruiser Dan for the P/Ns. He seems to get it right whenever I call him.


Was there a change in the leak's characterists after you did the pan gasket?
I used CruiserDrews method when I did my oil pan gasket R&R and, knock on wood, there hasn't been any leaks so far!

 

[mrlocksmith]

Thanks for the help everyone. Here a few replies to your questions.



D'Animal

Did you retighten the pan gasket after you installed it?


I torqued to factory spec on install of a new gasket and oil pan. (I forgot what it was now but I'll look it up) Should I now go back and re-torque 'em ??

Toadhopper

Was there a change in the leak's characterists after you did the pan gasket?

Only that I had no more oil leaks when parked.

used CruiserDrews method when I did my oil pan gasket R&R and, knock on wood, there hasn't been any leaks so far!

Care to enlighten us about Andrews Oil Pan Install Method?

cruiser88

cruiser88 If you pull the oil pan again use the one piece gasket.[/


I used the SOR 1 piece gasket along with some gasket dressing. I figure that if the oil pan gasket is bad it will leak when parked.


I ordered the expansion plug, RMS, and side cover gasket. I'll start with the side cover 1st before I drop the tranny.

Thanks again all

Mark

 

[D'Animal]

Yes, You have to retorque it after a week or so. The cork or what ever that material is will absorb oil and not really seal anymore.

Clean everything off and just retorque the ban bolts using the FSM and then see of it leaks. Do this before you go adn order parts you may not need.


Did you retighten the pan gasket after you installed it?


I torqued to factory spec on install of a new gasket and oil pan. (I forgot what it was now but I'll look it up) Should I now go back and re-torque 'em ??

Mark[/quote]

 

[Toadhopper]

OK Here is Drew's post:

The most important part for me was the permetex on the engine side, let it set for a little while to get nice and tacky, and stick the gasket to the engine using the alignment bolts you temporarily put into the block. Pay careful attention to the ends where the groove is. As you put the pan on, put a couple of the pan bolts finger tight and make sure the gasket is in the end-grooves brfore you tighten it down. Then tighten it down working from the middle out to the ends, and do it in 2-3 stages of tightness so the pan pushes onto the gasket evenly.
Also there were parts of my orig gasket that were stuck to the ends way up inside the groove latteraly that were hard to see and even tougher to get out!

Retighten the bolts like D'animal said and see if that helps before you go in there again. My gasket leaked when parked, now it doesn't so that might not be your issue, but a quick retorque cant hurt as long as its in specs

Drew's Way
I've done three of these and the oily memory is etched deep. For an easy job, it sucks, because the oil dripping out of the motor while you clean the mount surface, will ruin your hair-do.

By far the easiest way is to stick the gasket to the motor with some gray or black permatex. I use a very thin layer on the entire thing. Then stick it in the end grooves, and align the gasket with the holes all down each side.

Then hold the pan in place, use one or two long bolts in the middle to get it aligned and started, then use the small bolts all the way around.

It is critically important to clean off all the hard stuck on old gasket before you mount the new one.

Only use OEM. If it doesn't fit, it is likely you are holding it backwards. If you stick it to the motor, you will see it does fit. When you loosly stick it to the pan, it seems too big, at least that was my experience.


Good Luck,
Bryan

 

[mrlocksmith]

Mr Toadhopper:

Thanks for the reply.

Happy 4th

Mark

 

[dwillmo]

My FJ62 has almost identical problem. Where I park at work is on concrete slab and there's hardly any oil there, but when I drive it, I smell oil, and the underside has a nice coating. However, it hasn't used much oil, I'm down 1/2 quart since the oil change about 2,500 miles ago, so it's not bugging me.

 

[ellington12]

oil leak

...just a suggestion before pulling the tranny.

how's your PCV system working. if it's not up to par, your engine will build up excessive crankcase pressure and literally start pushing oil of out various seals, gaskets, etc.

just something to check as replacing a plugged PCV valve or collapsed breather hose is much easier than replacing the rear main.

 

[mrlocksmith]

Thanks

I did not think of that. I changed the PCV valve about 6 months ago. I'll hit the FSM and look up that it takes to see if it is in spec.

Mark

 

[mrlocksmith]

Here is the status of things on reparing my Oil Leak. I need some help from someone who has seen what a RMS leak would do to the flywheel, see the pics below.

1) I just had the undercarriage and engine steam cleaned
2) I re-tourqued the Oil Pan bolts to 10 Ft LBS
3) I took of the Inspection cover on the clutch/bell housing, Notice in the photo there is dust on the engine side of the flywheel (except where I wiped it off with my finger) and yet there is a film of oil on the inside of the bell-housing. Would a bad RMS seal leak onto the flywheel and make a mess? This would help in ruling the RMS out.

Flywheel

Oil Film on Bellhousing, Tranny side


Thanks for looking..

Mark