Ignition Troubleshooting - '71 FJ40 with Non-US Octane Selector Points Distributor (1 Viewer)

[4Cruisers]

Background:

About four or five years ago I hadn't started my '71 FJ40 for almost twelve years. It had been parked outside of my garage in Southern Nevada and I wanted to drive it into the garage until the start of its resurrection - I finally got around to the build earlier this year. Back then I was able to fire it up and get it into the garage after sitting for so long, which kind of surprised me, but kind of didn't. In 2016 I installed a rebuilt stock carburetor, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new rotor, new condenser, and new aftermarket coil, but I didn't replace the spark plug wires. I also changed the oil and filter. Because it had the non-US distributor the points I bought from NAPA didn't fit, so I cleaned the contacts on the old points and left them in.

I could never get it to start again, even with a new fully charged battery. I didn't do any more with the FJ40 (had to finish my 2-1/2 year '86 FJ60 build first) until I brought it back to New Mexico recently, and just yesterday started to get it ready to fire up again, or at least try it and troubleshoot as necessary.

Fuel System:

I drained the old fuel (only about a quart was in the tank), temporarily installed an older glass bowl fuel filter with new gasket and filter element, added 2 gallons of fresh fuel to the tank, and cleaned the carburetor fuel inlet and screen so that fuel would get to the fuel bowl. Fuel pump was checked by temporarily disconnecting the inlet pipe and running a short section of fuel hose into a stainless bowl. Once that was done I was able to check the accelerator pump - it works as it should. I still need to readjust the float level, the fuel level is near the top of the sight glass. This morning I plan on installing a swiitched 12V feed to the idle solenoid (per @Coolerman's fantastic installation directions) just to declutter the connections at the coil (+) terminal. I think the fuel system checks out and should be ready to go.

Electrical System:

I started by disconnecting and cleaning a lot of the connections and wire terminals, but still have more to do (see below). I finished the following - ballast resistor, coil, battery terminals and leads, distributor lead (to points), condenser, and ammeter. I also checked to make sure the distributor lead to the points was not shorting to the distributor body - the plastic piece on the outside of the distributor was brittle so it cracked and broke off while tightening the nut, so I fabricated a short nylon spacer to provide the required insulation. I still have to clean the connections at the starter (it cranks fine and the engine turns over freely), the ground cables at the frame/block, the fuses and fuse block, and the ignition switch connectors and leads.

I started to do some resistance and voltage checks. Here's what I've measured so far -

• Coil (+) to (-) resistance: 3.6 ohm
• External ballast resistor resistance: 1.6 ohm
• Battery (+) to (-) voltage: 12.25V
• Ballast resistor input to battery (-) voltage: 11.19V
• Ballast resistor output to battery (-) voltage: 7.66V

Question - is the 11.19V too low? I'm thinking it should be a bit over 12V. I'll check again after cleaning the rest of the terminals and connectors.

Question - the coil I bought at NAPA indicates "No External Resistor Required", do I need to buy a different coil? Our bypass the external resistor?

I think I'm heading in the right direction. Anything else I should be doing?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Yesterday, I replied to your alter ego (s4cruisers) in this thread. OEM coil options - 1978 FJ40

I made you an offer, in post #18, if you can use them... but, more importantly Jim provided some valuable insights in that thread... maybe they will help.

You didn’t mention grounds... have you cleaned your main grounds?

Without clean, bare metal, to ground to, at the battery-neg ground and the starter body ground, both on the PS frame-rail, you are not likely to have enough voltage to actually start the truck.

Sitting, unstarted, for 5 years... bad grounds are possible... even here in utopia.

Cheers!

 

[4Cruisers]

Yesterday, I replied to your alter ego (s4cruisers) in this thread. OEM coil options - 1978 FJ40

I made you an offer, in post #18, if you can use them... but, more importantly Jim provided some valuable insights in that thread... maybe they will help.

You didn’t mention grounds... have you cleaned your main grounds?

Without clean, bare metal, to ground to, at the battery-neg ground and the starter body ground, both on the PS frame-rail, you are not likely to have enough voltage to actually start the truck.

Sitting, unstarted, for 5 years... bad grounds are possible... even here in utopia.

Cheers!

Cleaning the grounds as we speak, finished at the starter bolt, working on the other end of the starter ground now. Meanwhile, I had the battery on the charger, it's up to 12.66V.

 

[Coolerman]

If the coil states no external resistor required, remove the ballast resistor from the circuit. That will get the voltage at the coil up to at least 11.19 volts. That 11.9 volts is low but then so is 12.25V at the battery. Charge that battery. A fully charged lead acid battery should read 12.6 volts give or take a tenth.

I just started a new web page about cleaning the fuse panel and harness connectors: How to Clean Fuse Panel
I would do this while you are in the cleaning mode!

 

[Coolerman]

Keep posting your voltage measurements at the coil + terminal as you clean stuff so that everyone can see the improvements as you progress. Just remember to always start with a fully charged battery so you have a good baseline measurement!

 

[4Cruisers]

The battery's up to 12.66V now, fairly new Interstate deep cycle battery. After I finish cleaning grounds I'll bypass the ballast resistor and see what happens.

 

[4Cruisers]

Keep posting your voltage measurements at the coil + terminal as you clean stuff so that everyone can see the improvements as you progress.

Will do!

 

[4Cruisers]

Update:

I finished cleaning more of the connections - at the starter and at the starter ground cable at the frame. At the gear reduction starter I found some non-Toyota/non-JIS hardware (lock washer and nut), installed by me years ago before I accumulated my big stash of Toyota hardware, so I replaced that while I was in there. I also saw that I had plugged the female terminal (maybe original?) at the starter into the later locking-style connector. Instead of cleaning up the old terminal I cut it off and crimped on the correct locking-style connector from the spare '81 Toyota pickup wiring harness I salvaged from our local landfill years ago, when that was still OK. BTW, that harness has already provided the correct connector for the 4WD indicator switch on the split transfer case that'll go into the FJ40 later, the correct connector for the brake fluid level switch on the newer single reservoir master cylinder that's already on the FJ40, and the replacement fuse panel.

I also bypassed the ballast resistor. Voltage at the coil (+) is now the 11.19V I had before, so no improvement there.

The good news is that I made some huge progress - it fired up! It doesn't stay running, so it's back to a fuel system issue. If I pour a little fuel into the carburetor it runs until that fuel gets used up. In the meantime, the engine sounds good, at least until it dies. And it looks like I have oil pressure - the gauge goes up to where it should. The fuel gauge also works!

I'm cleaning the last ground, where the cable from the battery (-) terminal bolts to the frame at the engine mount. I might go ahead and pull the carburetor and clean it up again before I do anything else, it was rebuilt three years ago but has sat since, so the passages/jets/etc. are probably gunked up. And I'll do the idle solenoid feed upgrade and double-check to make sure it's working.

More later.

 

[4Cruisers]

I finished cleaning the last ground and the ignition switch connector (I previously installed a steering column from a '75 FJ40). My wife helped me check the idle solenoid - she turned the key and I listened for the click. Works as it should. I'll disassemble the carburetor and soak the parts overnight, blow out the passageways with compressed air, reassemble and adjust it (if needed), then reinstall. Hopefully I can get the 2F (from a '76 Land Cruiser) to keep running so I can set the point gap using a dwell meter, set the timing, and get some compression numbers. Then I'll do a cylinder leak-down test using the tester I built.

 

[4Cruisers]

I think the biggest problem I had with the ignition system was using the coil along with the external ballast resistor. That reduced the voltage at the coil to less than 8V, clearly not enough to get spark to the plugs - thanks @Coolerman. Also appreciate the input from @Solace in Solitude. I thought there wouldn't be an issue with corrosion at the grounds over time due to the dry Nevada climate, but I was definitely wrong.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Regarding your remaining apparent fuel delivery issue.

Don’t forget that setting inoperable for years can result in a lot of water and sludge in your hard-lines.

You may have already done much of this... if not, I would:

1. Disconnect the hard-lines and flush/clean them.
2. Blow compressed air thru the fuel pickup and then flush the fuel tank.
3. Replace soft-lives and clamps.
4. Drop the fuel pump and check the diaphragm for cracks or splits. Sniff your dipstick, for gas in your oil. Test your pump, using @Pin_Head ’s procedure in POST 2. Pin_head offers other good insights as well.
5. Check the small screen (if your carb has one) at your carb feed... make sure it’s clean.
6. When you get to where it will run consistently, spray carb cleaner into the carb, while running. Add seafoam to your fuel tank.
7. 7. Replace your fuel filter... I think you already did, but if you have crap in your lines, etc., you probably have it in a new filter as well.

 

[4Cruisers]

Regarding your remaining apparent fuel delivery issue.

Don’t forget that setting inoperable for years can result in a lot of water and sludge in your hard-lines.

You may have already done much of this... if not, I would:

1. Disconnect the hard-lines and flush/clean them.
2. Blow compressed air thru the fuel pickup and then flush the fuel tank.
3. Replace soft-lives and clamps.
4. Drop the fuel pump and check the diaphragm for cracks or splits. Sniff your dipstick, for gas in your oil. Test your pump, using @Pin_Head ’s procedure in POST 2. Pin_head offers other good insights as well.
5. Check the small screen (if your carb has one) at your carb feed... make sure it’s clean.
6. When you get to where it will run consistently, spray carb cleaner into the carb, while running. Add seafoam to your fuel tank.
7. 7. Replace your fuel filter... I think you already did, but if you have crap in your lines, etc., you probably have it in a new filter as well.

All good. I've done some of this already, including the small inlet screen. And I'll change out the filter element again soon. The oil still looks good and the fuel pump puts out the amount expected.

 

[Coolerman]

Good job so far! Your dedication to the details will pay off as you will have a reliable truck once you get the fuel stuff figured out. Old rusty fuel lines and tanks have caused many a person to cry uncle. Put the same dedication you have placed in the electrical system into the fuel system.

 

[4Cruisers]

My spare carburetor is almost completely disassembled and some of the small parts (didn't lose any yet) have been cleaned, rinsed, dried, and bagged/labeled. I've started to soak the big parts in the big can of Berryman Chem-Dip. I called Cruiser Outfitters and ordered a carburetor kit, it should be here about the time the parts have all been cleaned. I have to look through my notes to verify what jet sizes I need to go with for the altitude here (7,240 feet). Looked through all I could find re: jet sizes and came up with a stock primary main jet size of 1.18 (however, I've also seen reference to 1.16 jets). Following some past FJ40Jim guidance his rule of thumb at the time was ~1% decrease in jet size per 1,000 feet elevation. For my altitude that would point to 1.10. I went online and ordered two 1.10 Mikuni jets, one for the carburetor on my '71 and one for the spare carburetor, which I'm rebuilding now. I also ordered two 1.80 secondary main jets.

 

[bdsmitty88]

My spare carburetor is almost completely disassembled and some of the small parts (didn't lose any yet) have been cleaned, rinsed, dried, and bagged/labeled. I've started to soak the big parts in the big can of Berryman Chem-Dip. I called Cruiser Outfitters and ordered a carburetor kit, it should be here about the time the parts have all been cleaned. I have to look through my notes to verify what jet sizes I need to go with for the altitude here (7,240 feet). Looked through all I could find re: jet sizes and came up with a stock primary main jet size of 1.18 (however, I've also seen reference to 1.16 jets). Following some past FJ40Jim guidance his rule of thumb at the time was ~1% decrease in jet size per 1,000 feet elevation. For my altitude that would point to 1.10. I went online and ordered two 1.10 Mikuni jets, one for the carburetor on my '71 and one for the spare carburetor, which I'm rebuilding now. I also ordered two 1.80 secondary main jets.

Hey. Did you ever get a perfect resolution to this thread? Did it end up being a clogged carb?

 

[4Cruisers]

I think the fresh carburetor rebuild did the trick. Plus I adjusted the valves. I got the 2F running like a top.