Ignition switch issues (1 Viewer)

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Yes, ignition switch. They go bad as the contacts wear and lubricant dries. NLA Toyota, but good aftermarket are out there. Also, you can use an earlier switch if you don't care if the buzzer sounds when you leave the key in the ignition... The little white plastic button (buzzer switch - top pic) is missing in earlier versions.
 
Thank you, can you point me in the direction of an aftermarket switch? On rockauto they only list the lock cyl, no switch.
 
Ok I ordered a new switch, can someone give me a rundown on replacing the switch? I assume that the lock must be removed, then what? Is the switch changed from the rear?
Also can the original switch be rebuilt?

Thanks,
Zack
 
Just remove the plastic collar and it's one screw holds the switch in place in the rear of the switch housing. Pretty obvious. Just pulls out then you have to disconnect the big connector at the harness. Might have to cut a few ties.

Which one did you order ?

Some have had luck taking them apart and greasing, but when I tried the springs and balls did a jack-in-the-box boingo so it was a lot easier to just slap that new biatch in there!

:grinpimp:
 
Just remove the plastic collar and it's one screw holds the switch in place in the rear of the switch housing. Pretty obvious. Just pulls out then you have to disconnect the big connector at the harness. Might have to cut a few ties.

Which one did you order ?

Some have had luck taking them apart and greasing, but when I tried the springs and balls did a jack-in-the-box boingo so it was a lot easier to just slap that new biatch in there!

:grinpimp:
I ordered the switch from Beno so I assume that I will be getting the switch for the older model 60 (without the key buzzer)
 
Oh, didn't know the earlier were still Mr. T available... Nice. Now just get a hide-a-key!
 
So here we go again....
I received the new switch from Beno yesterday and I attempted to install it today. Well as it turns out the switch is fine as well! The problems lies in the actual metal column, between the lock cyl and the ignition switch is a third mechanism the acts as the interface between the switch and the lock cyl. That part is the issue, as I can feel the resistance there (with both the lock cyl and ign switch removed). I assume that can't be replaced? If so, is the part available? I cleaned it out with some WD-40 and it seems smoother, but only time will tell. Hopefully my pictures help explain this better!
lock 1.jpg
lock 3.jpg
lock 4.jpg
 
Are the interface parts available? Are they part of the full column? Are they easy to change? At this point I just want new parts if they are available, to make this problem go away once and for all.
 
Well things seem fine in the last two days, so hopefully the cleaning with WD-40 has helped.
But it still begs the question are the center "interface" parts replaceable? If so, how do you replace the parts? What about the key release mechanism that contacts with the center "interface" part?
 
How is the key?

Might be, it's just worn down, get a new key cut from your VIN #
 
Well the key and everything to do with the lock cyl is fine, no problems there at all. The switch is fine as well. It is the intermediate interface piece.
 
I would still get a new key cut from the code
 
Hey wait a minute.....late model 60's have a buzzer if you leave the key in?

Interesting...wonder if I disabled the buzzer years ago....cause mine does not buzz, neither does out 62
 
Bumping this up.

Do we know for sure if the 80-83 switch will plug into the later J6x trucks? The ignition switch in my truck has more or less failed, and finding even a used 84-87 switch is proving difficult.

From the date codes, SOR doesn't have anything that will "fit" a 10/86 production, 87 model year harness. The only new one I can find is through SOR/Cruiser Corps, but for an 80-83.

 
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I have an early switch in my late 85. Just no door buzzer for the key left in ignition
 

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