Igniter experts- what are these loose wires?

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Hey all- my '77 40 has these wires hanging loose on the igniter. The 3rd male connector at the bottom is from a condenser which is tied to chassis ground. I figure (maybe) one of these hanging female connectors are for plugging into the condenser upon igniter failure (?) And the other one?

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The small black yellow wire is resistor bypass, not required unless you live in cold area. Increases voltage during cranking to 12+ volts.

Do you have a gear reduction starter?
 
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Just to confirm: the connector toward the right of pic is power from ignitor bypass terminal on starter. Hook it up if the starter solenoid has the extra terminal for it.
The remaining 2 wires are noise suppressor. Plug them together, if not for you, then for others nearby with radios.
The 77 is a good setup, it has adjustable vacuum advance, a better ignitor than 74-76, and an emergency backup ignition system in the form of ignition points & a condenser.
 
Thanks guys for your responses.
The small black yellow wire is resistor bypass, not required unless you live in cold area. Increases voltage during cranking to 12+ volts.

Do you have a gear reduction starter?
Curt- I believe this is the original factory starter- was a GR starter an option? And why wouldn't I (or anyone else) not hook up the resister bypass if available? Is it detrimental in any way to leave it hooked up? Thanks for any info!
 
I'm not Curt, but I play Curt on TV ;)

The GR starter shows up in the mid 80's. It cranks faster and uses less amps, but lacks the extra ballast bypass terminal found on 73-78 starters. The stock 77 starter will be a big direct drive starter with a short pigtail coming off the solenoid to send power directly to the coil when cranking (aka ballast bypassing).

Ballast bypass is a good thing, hook it up if possible.
 
One can make a GR starter do ballast bypassing with a SPST relay and a few connectors. I drew the circuit up a couple of years ago using a small solid state 4 pin relay, but never built one as there seemed to be no demand. On paper it's a very simple circuit, but actual plug and play implementation is a bit more complicated. If someone actually needs one, send me a PM and I will take a more serious look at making this an available kit.
 

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