IFS hubs swap on 85 solid axle help (1 Viewer)

[4LowandSlow]

Just finished doing ifs hubs on my truck, here are the specs and parts i used,

85' solid axle
93' ifs hubs
Tacoma rotors and calipers
Solid axle rebuild kit, bearings and seals
Solid axle spindle
Flipped knuckles
Milled down for the rotors and to eliminate the dust shield

So here's the problem, I've done some research but i haven't had any luck so ill ask here, When i go to spin the hub after completing it a bunch of force is needed to spin it, wayyyy more then it should be, after i seated the bearings i loosed it and tighten it to spec, and was still really tight, kept going down till about 19 ft lbs and its still just as tight. So from what it seems like its not the bearings, could it be that im using a solid axle hub seal instead of an ifs seal, or the friction from the dust seal on the spindle on the hub. Just looking for some ideas of what it could before i get started into tearing it apart.

 

[KLF]

When you say "eliminate the dust shield", did you put a spacer under the big dust seal? You can't just take off the old dust shields (backing plate), the spacing is very critical. That's why there is this kit:

Toyota Backing Plate Dust Shield Eliminator Kit

 

[gnob]

All the bearings an seals are the same ifs vs SA.
I would assume you are rubbing on the dust seal to hub.

 

[4LowandSlow]

When you say "eliminate the dust shield", did you put a spacer under the big dust seal? You can't just take off the old dust shields (backing plate), the spacing is very critical. That's why there is this kit:

Toyota Backing Plate Dust Shield Eliminator Kit

Since i went with front range off road tacoma brake kit i didn't need to run the plate or the dust shield. i turned the hub down so i didn't have to mess with making the seal fit on the hub because you have to trim it every time you replace it the same way.

All the bearings an seals are the same ifs vs SA.
I would assume you are rubbing on the dust seal to hub.

That's what i thought, i turned down the hub already thinking it was enough, ill take it apart and pull that off and then put it on without that dust shield and see how it does, might just have to turn down the hub a little bit more for the seal.

 

[ntsqd]

I'm missing something, why would you flip the knuckles?

I tighten wheel bearings with a ratchet handle in the socket, turning both the handle the wheel hub until the handle won't turn any more. Then I loosen the bearing nut to hand turn-able but not loose. I remove the handle and tighten the nut nearly as tight as I can get it using just the socket. Add washer, tighten second nut, and stake. Never had a problem with that method.

 

[4LowandSlow]

I'm missing something, why would you flip the knuckles?

I tighten wheel bearings with a ratchet handle in the socket, turning both the handle the wheel hub until the handle won't turn any more. Then I loosen the bearing nut to hand turn-able but not loose. I remove the handle and tighten the nut nearly as tight as I can get it using just the socket. Add washer, tighten second nut, and stake. Never had a problem with that method.

So with the Tacoma brake kit the factory brake mounts don’t work. So you use a mount a mount that bolts onto the spindle. You flip the knuckles so the factory mounts don’t interfere with the caliper. With this you get A bigger brakes. And B 8 bolts and the hub is off of the knuckle without taking the whole hub apart.

I tighten my bearing and stuff like how you do it on my 80 and there’s no problem. But like I said I think it’s the dust seal.

 

[ntsqd]

Oh, swapped them side to side. By "flipped" I thought you'd turned them upside down and I just couldn't see how that was gonna work no-how.

 

[KLF]

Lol... Gotta admit I thought the same thing at first. Imagine the camber angle...

 

[gnob]

You must just have it stacked wrong. I run the FROR kit and still run the dust seal unmodified.
As mentioned, you need the dust shield/eliminator in there.

 

[4LowandSlow]

took it apart and took the seal off and put it back together and tested it again, back down to where it needs to be. Just need to turn down the hub a little bit more.


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