If This Was Yours, Would You Change It?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

LFD2037

TEXAS LEXUS!
Joined
Oct 22, 2013
Threads
183
Messages
3,915
Location
Wax., TEXAS
This is my PHH. Texas rig its whole life with 171K miles. Coolant system was in great condition when I got it and still is. I have the parts to do it but not looking forward to it. Also, I've read they rot from the inside out. Would you change this as PM?
7841EDEC-1192-4234-B767-842D9BAD25CD.jpg
 
Yes, like I have said in other threads, I prefer my driveway/garage than the side of the road. :doh:

Just do the bypass or short silicone and be done with it for many many years to come.

Just my IMHO
 
Absolutely replace it. As mentioned above, much better on your terms than out in the field when you want to be doing anything but that.
 
Not a easy question to answer...lol. As you already mentioned,,, they rot from inside out, and when it goes,, most likely it won't be in ur drive way or somewhere convienent. If it was my rig,,, I would do it when possible. If it goes and you loose all your coolant,,,, you asking for worse issues as you might have already read on here. I re configured. My setup.. I cut everything out , removed the pipe,, then ran a high quality gates coolant hose, from the bottom up under thebrake booster,,, than made a custom small tower bridge and custom brackets out of aluminum ,, along the front of the valve cover, using the pre threaded holes from the engine itself that were not in use, This custom bridge setup I designed also carries other hoses and wiring since this is not the only thing I have relocated on my rig,, it serves as a wire and hose chase from one side of the engine to the other, giving these new routes a safe and accessible place to sit on",, yeah , yeah,, I need a digital camera at some point for photos,,,, I know,,lol.. Just can't come to spending money on a digital camera,, when I need more parts and tools,,,,, I have CRUISER OCD in a bad way,,,,lol. I think I have come to the right forum for support,,,,,lol

yes, I did remove my entire heating core from the system,,, no valves , nothing ,,, I plugged the heater core,, DONE... Don't need it,,,, saved a lot of room and one less heat source in that area around the EGR Valve, not to mention I have a much easier time to get the union nut off the egr valve when needed. I used the special constant hose clamps everyone else uses,, just got everything I need from NAPA auto parts,,, I had to special order the hose and clamps,, but took, the length I needed. And they put the rest on the shelf,,,, this gates premium coolant hose is a little pricey, but worth every penny. This will last a while for me, but next time will be a lot easier with out that original PHH setup,,,, I made sure the hose was routed clean and no kinks,,, with out the heater it is just a continuous cycle on my setup. , plus I save money on coolant now, since it take less coolant. I took advantage of draining the entire engine and radiator ,,, and adding new coolant.


You can still run a hose from the PHH nipple on the engine up around the booster towards the heat valve,,,In your setup on ur cruiser.......... or you can get the PHH kit like most others have done and move on. I like simplicity,,, and removing pending issues completely,,, and in my case I removed a lot of things that make it easier to work in my engine bay, as I do all of my own pm, and servicing.

It is truly not the worse job,to do on the cruiser,,, trust me,,, there is much worse...lol. ,, I removed my drivers' side wheel after jacking up the vehicle and was able to access everything from that advantage point. A little easier for me,,, I simply very gently using a sharp blade to slit the hose on the engine nipple just enough to be able to twist it off ,,, and took a Drexel tool with a small flex hose adapter and gentlycut the ears of the metal pipe and I was done ,,, Ran the new hose as described above and I was done.

Most folks will go through the entire Toyota OEM process and install the silicone hose kit with the special constant torque clamps,,, and adhere to the oem setup. I was not dealing with that again. When I was going through what your going through now,, I did a search on here and saw some members do what I described above,,, worked perfect for me.


Knock it off your list,, and you will rest better knowing. It is done,,, my 2 cents. GOOD LUCK !!!!!


CRUISER CARTEL
 
Last edited:
Without a sonogram or Xray how do you know that you don't have arteriosclerosis?
 
Alright, y'all conned me into it. I already have 4' of Gates green stripe and 2 Breeze CTC's. I'm heading to Big Bend NP in March. It's an 8hr drive just to get there then it's extremely desolate. I'd really hate for it to go out on the south side (Mexico) of 881,000+ acres in the middle of nowhere just north of hell!!!! Thanks.
 
Alright, y'all conned me into it. I already have 4' of Gates green stripe and 2 Breeze CTC's. I'm heading to Big Bend NP in March. It's an 8hr drive just to get there then it's extremely desolate. I'd really hate for it to go out on the south side (Mexico) of 881,000+ acres in the middle of nowhere just north of hell!!!! Thanks.
I would agree with that. I doubt the tow from inside the park is cheap and I wouldnt want to abandon a vehicle along the river to get help.
 
Like everyone said just change it and it is far easier than what most old posts make it to be. Hell even I did a bypass.

Here are the high level simple steps:

1. Jack up the front driver corner and remove skirt or what ever those plastic things are called.
2. Remove front wheel
3. Remove tranny stick, 2 bolts
4. Remove top hose and unbolt the tube from top
5. Cut the PHH with a knife but nothing else through wheel well, plenty of space. I stick a pice of rag into the tube on the block so the coolant doesn't drip out, don't forget to remove that though.
6. Do darkness' wiggle method to remove tube
7. Use plier and knife to remove what's left on the block.
8. Install PHH or bypass
9. Put everything back


It can be done in an hour!

While you are in there cut an inch off of the #1 bypass hose and put it back. That leaked for me before the PHH. It's just couple of inches left of the knock sensor.
 
Mine blew in 2013 on the highway coming back from camping in 110 degree heat. Was original with 100k on truck.

Replace in your driveway for $5, or pay the $500 I did at dealer without any other choice!
 
Like everyone said just change it and it is far easier than what most old posts make it to be. Hell even I did a bypass.

Here are the high level simple steps:

1. Jack up the front driver corner and remove skirt or what ever those plastic things are called.
2. Remove front wheel
3. Remove tranny stick, 2 bolts
4. Remove top hose and unbolt the tube from top
5. Cut the PHH with a knife but nothing else through wheel well, plenty of space. I stick a pice of rag into the tube on the block so the coolant doesn't drip out, don't forget to remove that though.
6. Do darkness' wiggle method to remove tube
7. Use plier and knife to remove what's left on the block.
8. Install PHH or bypass
9. Put everything back


It can be done in an hour!

While you are in there cut an inch off of the #1 bypass hose and put it back. That leaked for me before the PHH. It's just couple of inches left of the knock sensor.
Call me crazy but i would switch steps 1 and 2 :p (at least remove the skirt part :lol:
 
Replaced mine at 123k as preventive maintenance, original PHH was still in great shape. Better safe than sorry. Peace of mind is priceless. ;)
 
Replace it. No question.

Mine looked similar to yours when I swapped it out a few years back. The inside was in rough shape. Glad I took care of it.

Good luck.
 
This is my PHH. Texas rig its whole life with 171K miles. Coolant system was in great condition when I got it and still is. I have the parts to do it but not looking forward to it. Also, I've read they rot from the inside out. Would you change this as PM?
7841EDEC-1192-4234-B767-842D9BAD25CD.jpg

Think of how exciting it will be NOT replacing the PHH, you'll keep wondering if it's gonna blow any minute and yet you're beatIng the odds and laughing like a mad hyena every time you get behind the wheel! Life is short live it up! Que the maniacal laughter.

Or not.

Zona
 
I did this from the driver wheel well and got the fuel filter same time, same area.

Like everyone said just change it and it is far easier than what most old posts make it to be. Hell even I did a bypass.

Here are the high level simple steps:

1. Jack up the front driver corner and remove skirt or what ever those plastic things are called.
2. Remove front wheel
3. Remove tranny stick, 2 bolts
4. Remove top hose and unbolt the tube from top
5. Cut the PHH with a knife but nothing else through wheel well, plenty of space. I stick a pice of rag into the tube on the block so the coolant doesn't drip out, don't forget to remove that though.
6. Do darkness' wiggle method to remove tube
7. Use plier and knife to remove what's left on the block.
8. Install PHH or bypass
9. Put everything back


It can be done in an hour!

While you are in there cut an inch off of the #1 bypass hose and put it back. That leaked for me before the PHH. It's just couple of inches left of the knock sensor.
 
I paid a skinny Filipino guy $85 to change it out in 45mins. No way in hell I was gonna do it myself. Best $85 I've paid on this truck. :flipoff2:
 
This is my PHH. Texas rig its whole life with 171K miles. Coolant system was in great condition when I got it and still is. I have the parts to do it but not looking forward to it. Also, I've read they rot from the inside out. Would you change this as PM?
7841EDEC-1192-4234-B767-842D9BAD25CD.jpg

That may look fine on the outside, but you don't know what kind of condition that hose is on the inside. Clearly, your motor needs a full rebuild. Luckily, that will make access to the PHH easier.
 
Mine blew in 2013 on the highway coming back from camping in 110 degree heat. Was original with 100k on truck.

Replace in your driveway for $5, or pay the $500 I did at dealer without any other choice!

You can always put the parts in the glove box and "let it ride" (Literally).
Might be neat job to do on the side of the road in heat of summer or cold of winter.
One thing is for certain is that if you don't replace it, you will not know when it will fail.
If your retired might not be a problem; but from my experience catastrophic failures are akin to getting teeth pulled without Novocain, machete to the shins, cigar cutter to the fingers, sandblaster to the eye, scalped with a dull knife....you get the idea.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom