thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
I know a 55 works, maybe a 60 for your rowdy Canadian engine.
Idle troubles - With Video! Help diagnose my dying idle please? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JohnJL
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thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
What's in your primary main, secondary main and power jet?
- Thread starter
- #23
Primary slow - 60
Secondary slow - 80
Primary Main - 120
Secondary Main - 180
Power valve 80.
I am at ~300 ft above sea level
- Thread starter
- #24
I put a new 55 slow primary jet in, if thats what is known to work and the 60's slot was buggered up so better not have it break off in the carb anyway.
I cleaned out every passage again. I didnt find any debris anywhere. I did swap out the idle speed screw though for something more accessible and easy to use...
How's the condition of the butterfly shaft? Badly worn can suck air through there and make tuning difficult.
- Thread starter
- #27
THanks, I did squirt a bunch of carb cleaner around all the shafts and plugs, no change. I will try again.
Dumb question: did you submerse soak your carb in carb cleaner solution (like Berrymans or Gunk Carb cleaner)?
X2
I was committed to originality and running the original carb. Until I had it smoke tested. Smoked poured out of the shaft openings. Wear at the shaft had rendered the carb nonfunctional due to vac leak.
- Thread starter
- #30
No, I had to go at it passage-by-passage with cleaner, air and dust-free Kimwipes. 3x now
I dont know if other Canucks found if but I couldnt get Berrymans or Gunk locally or delivered. Not that surprising...you guys get wood stain we cant get due to the chemicals (try getting TWP!)
I have had many 2 stroke carbs that I have disassembled and cleaned with carb cleaner, and it wasn't until I tank soaked them that I was able to clear the passages. It sounds to me like a passage is blocked either partially or fully. Can a professional place tank clean it for you? I have a feeling that may be your issue.
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- #32
Hi, thanks for the reply. Do you do that with the vacuum on the distributor, or disconnected?
I also raised the fuel level in the bowl a scotch. It was steady ~1mm below half in the window, it should be ~1mm over when I go try her now.
With the AFR connected now I am going to give her a hot run.
- Thread starter
- #33
Well another session and I am at the F*** it stage. I have a new remflex manifold gasket on there and I torqued it to 25 lbs per the package...I recall they were only supposed to be torqued once. I torqued up the manifold nuts again and the behavior changed...now it runs pig-richeven with the idle mix at 2 turns out and the idle speed screw at 1.5 - 2.5 turns in. I did take it for a few runs up and down our closed street to help seat the rings.
I also noticed a dripping noise inside the carb after it shut down and can see the bowl draining down the intake somehow. I also notice fuel leaking out of the secondary shafts outside the carb. That would indicate to me not only is the idle shur-off or something else not working properly, but also if fuel comes out those shafts then air must be leaking in also. I am ready to call in a professional. I will have the carb in a box tonight, will turn my attention to fixing some track rash on teh autocross car.
I notice a few builders and experts helping me here, anyone most keen to take my money and rebuild my 74 carb?
THanks again for all who replied and helped!
I also noticed a dripping noise inside the carb after it shut down and can see the bowl draining down the intake somehow. I also notice fuel leaking out of the secondary shafts outside the carb. That would indicate to me not only is the idle shur-off or something else not working properly, but also if fuel comes out those shafts then air must be leaking in also. I am ready to call in a professional. I will have the carb in a box tonight, will turn my attention to fixing some track rash on teh autocross car.
I notice a few builders and experts helping me here, anyone most keen to take my money and rebuild my 74 carb?
THanks again for all who replied and helped!
Re worn butterfly shaft. You can smear vasolene or grease around the shaft ends to see if it improves the idle.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
I wonder if you have a lack of vacuum. Did you have your manifolds sanded flat? If not, I'd do that before mailing off the carb. Then I'd use a Fel-Pro manifold gasket. @Mark W and FJ40Jim have both said they have faith in Fel-Pro manifold gaskets.
I think a video or video's of your engine running, behavior with carb choked and un-choked, how it acts when you twist the distributor like Whitey mentioned.
I'd be curious how it runs if you just temporarily cap off the vac advance fittings.
This.
There was another thread here recently where a timing light setting caused all sorts of problems. At least retard it a bit and eliminate timing issues first.
- Thread starter
- #37
Hahaha, you might be thinking of another of my threads....I now use 3 timing lights to check each other!
You guys have inspired me to give it one more try out there this morning....
Just curious you said you have a new cam installed have you properly run this in? If not i would be doing this before tinkering with idle much more
- Thread starter
- #39
It doesnt change if I cap off/Pinch off the valve cover, brake booster, distributor advance or vacuum gauge (those are the only 3 vacuum uses and only 3 taps into the intake) When its idling at ~725 with the choke on the distributor shows 11 degrees advance (on 2 different timing lights) with or without the vacuum attached to the dizzy.
- Thread starter
- #40
I have taken it for a couple trips up and down the road. On other motors I am familiar with break-in as get it running, make sure no leaks/oil pressure, etc...low varied RPMs for 20 minutes, then run it up and down the road with lots of accelertion/decel to seat the rings, change oil, check adjustments...thats where I am now...
