Icons 2.5 to replace OME Lift? (1 Viewer)

[Reckless]

A few years ago my AHC went out and my mechanic strongly suggested to take it out and replace with springs. I ended up ordering the Slee 1.5" OME kit and have used it for a few years but never liked driving the vehicle without weight. I ended up buying a 200 because of how much the suspension annoyed me. I kept my 100 as I couldn't let go of such a classic. I have been willing to replace my suspension but having the hardest time finding the perfect replacement.

Every cyber monday I think about going with an Icon setup but I get confused as there doesn't seem to be a huge consensus of it being the best overall street suspension. I have gotten to the point where I am willing to revalve the suspension every 40-50k miles but want the best ride available. I was about to go with BP-51 but with noise issue, difficulty in dialing it in properly and finally being sick of OME harsh rides I am willing to try something else.

I am the crossroads whether to go with Icon Stage I vs Stage III (adjustable CDCV remote reservoir). My driving is 100% street. I like to speed and drive my cars aggressively living in Chicago and usually drive 100 miles on the highway daily going 80-100mph.

I wish I could drive someone who has an Icon setup or even coilovers near Chicago. I understand being race components that they can be loud/issues that aren't designed for street use.

 

[jdcascio1]

I've had Icon stage II 2.5's on my LX for coming up on two years now and roughly 22k miles. The ride is about as close to factory as I can imagine. I have driven it on the highway from NC to FL and NC to MI multiple times and it is smooth the entire way. Living in the mountains, I have had the opportunity to take it around some twisties on many occasions and they seem to perform better than factory AHC. Having ridden and driven multiple vehicles with OME suspension, I have nothing bad to say about OME, but I feel the Icon setup is far superior in ride quality.

 

[Reckless]

Did you have to get upper control arms?

It looks like stage III requires it but stage I doesn't.

 

[jdcascio1]

Yeah I went ahead and got new upper control arms. I went with Nitrogear, which are pretty much exactly the same as Total Chaos UC's. I'm willing to bet with stage II you don't really NEED them, but my train of thought was better safe than sorry, and I might as well since I'm ripping all the old stuff out anyways. You'll definitely want to do a diff drop. I got the Slee diff drop and it was very easy to do.

It's worth noting that Icon has been extremely helpful as far as customer service goes. I had a shock arrive leaking from the factory and they replaced it quickly and with little hassle. I've also called them a few other times with general inquiries and they are always willing to answer my questions accurately.

Also worth a note: My CV axle boots were original (presumably) and ended up tearing due to the increased angle, so you may want to look into replacing those depending on mileage, since you'll already be in there removing the suspension. I replaced the CV axles completely since I was unsure how long I had been driving around on dry spleens. Just an observation.

 

[Reckless]

Decided to go with Stage I kit because did not want to mess with upper control arms. I lose the ability to change on the fly but I can have it revalved for free in first 12 months if its not soft enough. At the moment it is being paired with my OME medium lift spring.

I kept the CDCV option for my 200 although it may be $900 overkill.

 

[Kabanstva]

Don't you need to rebuild the Icons every 10-15k miles? That's the setup I wanted but that sounds like a big hassle to me.

 

[Reckless]

40-50k miles for street driving. If offroading baja style than 10k miles.

If you want to contact me in 2 months (I have a feeling it will take 3 weeks for Icon to ship) when I will have it mounted I will be glad to let you drive it in Chicago.

 

[Kabanstva]

That would be amazing.

I am curious to compare the ride. I have a bone stock 07 LX with AHC. so it would be cool to compare.

 

[Idaho Savage]

Interested in your results.

 

[custyota]

I'm interested as well. I'm moving to SoCal and will be in the desert a lot and curious if this is something I want to do. Also curious since I'm set up for long adventures how the shocks will do with the added weight.

 

[Dparo]

I’ve been eyeballing the Stage 3 setup myself.

But OP, 100 miles daily at 80-100 mph? Maybe the answer would be a different vehicle, I wouldn’t want your gas bill, or tickets.

 

[Reckless]

I used to have german luxury sedans in place of my LC. After watching 20 car accidents from my office window I saw SUVs survive accidents better than sedans. I bought 2 MB g wagons as I wanted to be higher off the ground but ended up not liking them, bought a 100 to replace them and eventually a 200. The highest mpg I have ever seen has been my LC at 15mpg. All my german cars averaged 8-13mpg. Originally planned to put steel bumpers on them but stopped due to mpg and range. My boys keep trying to convince me for Porsche/BMW SUVs but I am too attached to Land Cruisers.

I ordered stage III first but cancelled due to extra cost $1300 for kit + $800 for UCA. For me it was only for the CDC valve function. I bought the equivalent for my 200 this past weekend at 20% off ($2650) as well as stage I for my 100 ($780). First time trying racing coilovers.

 

[catz]

Yeah I went ahead and got new upper control arms. I went with Nitrogear, which are pretty much exactly the same as Total Chaos UC's. I'm willing to bet with stage II you don't really NEED them, but my train of thought was better safe than sorry, and I might as well since I'm ripping all the old stuff out anyways. You'll definitely want to do a diff drop. I got the Slee diff drop and it was very easy to do.

It's worth noting that Icon has been extremely helpful as far as customer service goes. I had a shock arrive leaking from the factory and they replaced it quickly and with little hassle. I've also called them a few other times with general inquiries and they are always willing to answer my questions accurately.

Also worth a note: My CV axle boots were original (presumably) and ended up tearing due to the increased angle, so you may want to look into replacing those depending on mileage, since you'll already be in there removing the suspension. I replaced the CV axles completely since I was unsure how long I had been driving around on dry spleens. Just an observation.

Ditto " " got the same setup (57807/57802) with nitrogears and diff drop, same issues with torn boots and leak on delivery, same satisfaction and excellent after sales. Daily drive 95-100 miles one way averaging @ 85mph while hitting 100mph on the return journey after midnight every other day except weekends for almost a year. AT toast shortly on the second year. Icon stage 2 still great and no sign of fatigue after 70k miles. Servicing the shocks is in the plan.

 

[470SNC]

I ran 2.5 extended travel Icons with Resis in my old FJC and GX470, they are a step above the OME standard shock replacement due to being able to adjust ride height and adjustability. The ride is far better and will handle the weight better. I rebuilt mine every couple of years if that and I was wheeling them pretty hard. They will hold up to the abuse way better than any OME/TJM shock replacement will.

 

[Reckless]

Ditto " " got the same setup (57807/57802) with nitrogears and diff drop, same issues with torn boots and leak on delivery, same satisfaction and excellent after sales. Daily drive 95-100 miles one way averaging @ 85mph while hitting 100mph on the return journey after midnight every other day except weekends for almost a year. AT toast shortly on the second year. Icon stage 2 still great and no sign of fatigue after 70k miles. Servicing the shocks is in the plan.

What is AT toast? Do you think Stage II is worth the extra $1500-2000 for street driving?

 

[Reckless]

I ran 2.5 extended travel Icons with Resis in my old FJC and GX470, they are a step above the OME standard shock replacement due to being able to adjust ride height and adjustability. The ride is far better and will handle the weight better. I rebuilt mine every couple of years if that and I was wheeling them pretty hard. They will hold up to the abuse way better than any OME/TJM shock replacement will.

How do you like them compared to Fox? I am planning on running 1.5" lift on 100 and stock height on 200.

 

[470SNC]

I ran 2.5 foxes on my 2nd FJC and I liked the Icons better. On my 100 I'm running 2.0 Foxes so the 2.5 diameter Icons will definitely feel better.

 

[Reckless]

Thanks for letting me know. Someone said they preferred the foxes over the Icons for the 200 which has made me uneasy about the Icons. The whole digressive/progressive thing also confuses me. I think you have people who are different types, some people who prefer driving aggressively who might prefer one setup and another group that prefers comfort who might like the other.

 

[catz]

What is AT toast? Do you think Stage II is worth the extra $1500-2000 for street driving?

The Auto Transmission (A442F) didn't make it for that kind of driving. Religiously drain and fill every 15K or less with synthetic ATF instead of 40K after the rebuilding. Apart from driving fast confidently at that ride height (21.5" front & 23" rear - measured from center wheel to fender), the extra was all worth while when I am still able to hit the woods on weekends.

 

[SR.GRINGO]

I have been running the 2.5” remote Icon’s for a year. My tires are 285 A/T, Arb bumper w/ 12.5k winch. I’m happy with the setup. Nice tight controlled suspension.