Icon shocks (1 Viewer)

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Now that's a review!

So for a mostly streeted with occasional offroad use 100, would the IPFs still work well with no lift? Would the stroke be too long for a stock application? Or would it suffice and also be good to go after a small lift?

The original mock up was done on a stock 100. So I'm guessing they'll fit like a glove and make a huge improvement. But Dylan will have better fitment info since he is the one doing the designing and fitment. These shocks will make a HUGE splash in the 100 Series market and be worth every penny spent. They're customer service is very well documented as being one of the best in the industry as well.

The prices quoted above are MSRP per shock and right in line with what you'd expect from a product of this caliber. I'm assuming vendors will set their prices based on that, but you can probably expect to pay a few dollars less per shock by going through a vendor. That's how it usually works.
 
The original mock up was done on a stock 100. So I'm guessing they'll fit like a glove and make a huge improvement. But Dylan will have better fitment info since he is the one doing the designing and fitment. These shocks will make a HUGE splash in the 100 Series market and be worth every penny spent. They're customer service is very well documented as being one of the best in the industry as well.

The prices quoted above are MSRP per shock and right in line with what you'd expect from a product of this caliber. I'm assuming vendors will set their prices based on that, but you can probably expect to pay a few dollars less per shock by going through a vendor. That's how it usually works.

Thanks for that, I must have missed that it was stock when I read through the thread. I'm really curious about the ride height since you'd think the more hardcore options would really appeal to the lifted 100, but there are probably many with no lift in the target market too. I would gladly run shocks with some unused travel now, knowing that they'll be good after new springs and a diff drop later. Those price points, albeit MSRP, look great to me as well.
 
Just to clarify the 2.5 front IFP does not have the "Bump Zone"?

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Now that's a review!

So for a mostly streeted with occasional offroad use 100, would the IPFs still work well with no lift? Would the stroke be too long for a stock application? Or would it suffice and also be good to go after a small lift?

Correct. the IFP does not have the bump zone.
We achieve the bump zone by the way we port the fluid out to the reservoir, so it can only be done with an external reservoir. The IFP DOES have an internal reservoir however.
Most reservoir shocks come out the top. In the pictures you can see a black billet manifold on the shock body that the hose attaches too so that the fluid going to the reservoir comes out a couple inches down from the end. When the piston passes this point the fluid displaced by the shaft now has to go though the piston to get to the reservoir. This increases the flow by 20% and shifts the shock curve to make more force. Of course this costs more as there is an additional machined billet manifold and extra machining of the cylinder as well as seals and assembly labor. It is still much more cost effective then other means of position sensitive suspension.

The IFP shock works with all the stock components and gives a bit more down travel and is good from stock height to about 2" of lift. When we did the tuning we turned up the stock torsion bars for 1" of lift which was about all we could get out of the stock bars without reindexing. as far as the shock and ride quality is concerned the amount of lift is related to how much droop travel is remaining from your new ride height. 2" of droop is OK, more is better, less and ride quality starts to suffer. We had 3.25" down travel at 1" lift.
On most of our Toyota and other IFS products we give a suggested lift with standard travel shocks and stock arm and more with the extended shock and UCA. Its not that you couldn't turn up the lift on the standard set up but there would be very little droop left and the ride quality would suffer and if you off road it hard it would top out frequently which is hard on parts.

The IFP 2.5" front and 2.0" rear combo was put together to hit the under $1k mark and give you the performance off road.
 
The IFP shock works with all the stock components and gives a bit more down travel and is good from stock height to about 2" of lift. When we did the tuning we turned up the stock torsion bars for 1" of lift which was about all we could get out of the stock bars without reindexing. as far as the shock and ride quality is concerned the amount of lift is related to how much droop travel is remaining from your new ride height. 2" of droop is OK, more is better, less and ride quality starts to suffer. We had 3.25" down travel at 1" lift.
On most of our Toyota and other IFS products we give a suggested lift with standard travel shocks and stock arm and more with the extended shock and UCA. Its not that you couldn't turn up the lift on the standard set up but there would be very little droop left and the ride quality would suffer and if you off road it hard it would top out frequently which is hard on parts.

The IFP 2.5" front and 2.0" rear combo was put together to hit the under $1k mark and give you the performance off road.

Thank you very much for that response, Dylan. Sounds like a fantastic upgrade and I'm glad to know I'm right in that front crank range you mentioned. I was able to get about 1" out of the stock tbars without reindexing as well, but found that I prefer it at about .75" with a bit more droop.
 
Great thread, I think I've finally found something to replace my overly stiff OMEs.

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Has anyone picked up a set of these yet? If so how do you like them?
I wish metaltech was doing the 20%off icon they offered on cyber Monday still.


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Icon shocks for 100 series

Check out the suspension builder tool here:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/JTOTLC100-SUPDLX-D-p/jtotlc100-supdlx.htm?1=1&CartID=2


We worked with Icon to develop an extended version to work with our Super Deluxe kit with UCA's etc. The results are great. We've got 3.25" droop at 2.5" lift hieght which is about double what you get with OME / stock shocks / uca's. I cannot stress enough how greatly the ride is improved with the additional droop. This is beneficial for all situations, dirt road, trails, pavemnt.
-Since the wheel can droop further it will stay on the ground more often.
-there is much less preload from the torsion bar forcing the shock to full extension.
-More stroke on the shock generates less heat
I've heard concerns for "additional wear to cv's & tie rod ends" . Since I've run the longer travel setup for 6-7 years and about 120k miles, I've not experienced wear greater than what others are experiencing. Cv's at 155k, Tie rod ends and lower at 195k, truck has 207k and it has been lifted since 69k. Original rack. Uniballs have been changed with 55k since install. I'm now running a prototype ball joint arm as others I've seen dont allow the added travel that makes life so good. This is not for everybody, but it is pretty rad.

Sorry the truck is so dirty, but it is winter here and the truck gets used:)

IMG_20140121_171904_355.jpg


IMG_20140122_110747_131.jpg


JTOTLC100-DLX_lc100_deluxe_icon_suspension.jpg
 
looks like a nice setup. what's the warranty on icon shocks?
 
I'm getting 70 mm droop with 21 3/8" front hub to fender. I'm using total chaos uca and they nearly contact the shock body... You saying another inch is possible?

I would believe it given the angles; as the LCA gets steeper, the shock swings inward even more drastically. Man I would love to get that extra droop, makes a huge difference on trails IME.
 
I'm getting 70 mm droop with 21 3/8" front hub to fender. I'm using total chaos uca and they nearly contact the shock body... You saying another inch is possible?

I know there are a lot of things that can affect every truck differently, but when I switched from the ome 2.5" lift to TC and Radflo I gained another 2" of down travel. I went from 60mm to 110mm of droop without anything other than replacing parts.
 
Check out the suspension builder tool here:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/JTOTLC100-SUPDLX-D-p/jtotlc100-supdlx.htm?1=1&CartID=2


We worked with Icon to develop an extended version to work with our Super Deluxe kit with UCA's etc. The results are great. We've got 3.25" droop at 2.5" lift hieght which is about double what you get with OME / stock shocks / uca's. I cannot stress enough how greatly the ride is improved with the additional droop. This is beneficial for all situations, dirt road, trails, pavemnt.
-Since the wheel can droop further it will stay on the ground more often.
-there is much less preload from the torsion bar forcing the shock to full extension.
-More stroke on the shock generates less heat
I've heard concerns for "additional wear to cv's & tie rod ends" . Since I've run the longer travel setup for 6-7 years and about 120k miles, I've not experienced wear greater than what others are experiencing. Cv's at 155k, Tie rod ends and lower at 195k, truck has 207k and it has been lifted since 69k. Original rack. Uniballs have been changed with 55k since install. I'm now running a prototype ball joint arm as others I've seen dont allow the added travel that makes life so good. This is not for everybody, but it is pretty rad.

Sorry the truck is so dirty, but it is winter here and the truck gets used:)

Did you re-valve theses shocks from what icons standard is? Or are these basically what icon is selling now? How is the ride with these shocks?
 
Has anyone bought/installed a set of these yet?


My AHC has got to go, and soon.


Am thinking about these shocks with ironman or OME springs and TBars.


Any thoughts on that setup, or any feedback on the shocks on a 100 yet?
 
Has anyone bought/installed a set of these yet? My AHC has got to go, and soon. Am thinking about these shocks with ironman or OME springs and TBars. Any thoughts on that setup, or any feedback on the shocks on a 100 yet?
I bought them, but they have a three week wait on them. They are build to order. I'll do a full review when I get them.

Also, remote resis are overkill if you don't do washboard roads or have a lot of money burning a hole in your pocket.
 
I bought them, but they have a three week wait on them. They are build to order. I'll do a full review when I get them. Also, remote resis are overkill if you don't do washboard roads or have a lot of money burning a hole in your pocket.

Awesome. When did you order and when do you expect them? Would definitely be doing the internal resi.
 

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