Icon shocks (1 Viewer)

[Kofoed]

Thanks, I did read your instructions. Did yours look like this? The pic shows the top of stem with lower mounted bolted in and exerting force on the lower bushing. Metaltech emailed me to torque nut until it is flush with top of stem. I'll have to switch to nylock instead of jam nut, per them. I have junked two shocks before by having the stem nut back off (even lock-washered and red Loctite, AND a nylock) and eventually fall off, with the stem puling out of mount and getting bent by next big hit. Washboard is a terrible thing. I am not looking to repeat with a $500 shock...Once I know I will keep the shocks, I'll go castellated top nut.....

 

[paflytyer]

I'd be a little concerned with a castellated nut and holes in the pin. You are weakening that portion of the pin and the force could mushroom the end. If you needed to get the shocks off (and you will) for service, you may have an issue. Especially in getting the nut back on.

 

[Slickspawn]

Your pic is too fuzzy to tell sorry. I smushed the bushings by tightening the top nut, so the lock nut would fit on there flush with the top of the threaded shaft.

After reading your note I'm going to add some red loctite to the lock nut and retorque for good measure. It would suck to wreck one of these. I'll take a picture tonight when I get home and post it.

 

[Kofoed]

I'd be a little concerned with a castellated nut and holes in the pin. You are weakening that portion of the pin and the force could mushroom the end. If you needed to get the shocks off (and you will) for service, you may have an issue. Especially in getting the nut back on.

Don't confuse castellated nut with "slotted hex" nut. It is fairly easy, even for this hack, to drill the hole and chase the threads.

 

[Kofoed]

So I put down my purse (lol) so I could to tighten the nut down to get the jam nut on. Those bushings are really compressed. I wonder about the longevity. Oh well. 100 mile freeway test drive to check my work (I replaced the UCA, links, rear shocks, diff drop, etc., etc.) so far so good.

.

 

[savirc]

View attachment 1049449 View attachment 1049450 I tried fitting my 2.5, reservoir shocks on the front this morning. Aside from no included directions, does anybody remember if the stem was this long or the bushings were this thick? I had to really torque the nut just to get it to get near the top of the stem, no room for the lock nut, and the bushings were bulging.....This is not right. My guess is they added the wrong package for the bushings, and nuts....

I'll call Icon tomorrow, but my dang phone died..........

I ran into this exact issue yesterday, did you figure out how to fix this issue?

 

[savirc]

Copy/paste from the instructions I posted above:

8. Make sure the upper stem is centered in its hole and jack up on the lower A-arm slightly until the shock just starts to compress, this will help preload the upper stem bushing. Install the remaining bushing and washer(cupped down) on the stem followed by the large stem nut. Tignten the nut until 4-5 threads are showing through the nut. Install the jam nut and tighten to 35 lb/ft.

I did this and it did not help, the bushings are extremely dense no give. Why couldn't they make the bolt longer.. sigh

 

[Slickspawn]

I did this and it did not help, the bushings are extremely dense no give. Why couldn't they make the bolt longer.. sigh

Post a pic of the bushing...

 

[savirc]

Post a pic of the bushing...

it looks EXACTLY like Kofoeds previous post and I do mean identical. Only a thread an half left to screw anything on there, shock centered, bushings centered, full load on shock.

 

[savirc]

it looks EXACTLY like Kofoeds previous post and I do mean identical. Only a thread an half left to screw anything on there, shock centered, bushings centered, full load on shock.

Also instructions want you to put two interlocking nuts. I can't even fit the locking skinny nut.

 

[savirc]

So I put down my purse (lol) so I could to tighten the nut down to get the jam nut on. Those bushings are really compressed. I wonder about the longevity. Oh well. 100 mile freeway test drive to check my work (I replaced the UCA, links, rear shocks, diff drop, etc., etc.) so far so good.

.

Really don't want to do this, I got the Icons from Metaltech as well if this is their solution to this oversight I'm going to call Icon instead, they really need to include correct sized bushings on a set of $1000+ shocks or make the "100 series" specific shocks with same as stock mounting bolt length...

 

[larryt]

I responded to the other thread: with the top washer off, you should be able to thread the nut. Torque it down pretty well and it will compress the bushings a bit. Undo the bolt and try again with the top washer in place and you should have enough thread to complete it.

Once all the washers are on and top nut on, it was easy to tighten enough to get the jam nut on, but that was all after the steps I listed above. I hope you get this straightened out.

 

[savirc]

I responded to the other thread: with the top washer off, you should be able to thread the nut. Torque it down pretty well and it will compress the bushings a bit. Undo the bolt and try again with the top washer in place and you should have enough thread to complete it.

Once all the washers are on and top nut on, it was easy to tighten enough to get the jam nut on, but that was all after the steps I listed above. I hope you get this straightened out.

Thanks Larryt. Doing this worked eventually still left the lock nut out a bit. Icons answer was not much better than Metaltech. They really should sort this kind of thing out no offense, I don't expect these kinds of "rigging" when paying the price of quality drop in parts. Anyway maybe venting a little hopefully those nuts don't dance out of that shock they don't have a lot of threads to dance out of.....

 

[Kofoed]

Thanks Larryt. Doing this worked eventually still left the lock nut out a bit. Icons answer was not much better than Metaltech. They really should sort this kind of thing out no offense, I don't expect these kinds of "rigging" when paying the price of quality drop in parts. Anyway maybe venting a little hopefully those nuts don't dance out of that shock they don't have a lot of threads to dance out of.....

I torqued the nut down to get the jam nut flush with the stud top. It takes effort. I was moving the shock around in the process so that nothing was hanging up. I would be carfeful and torque the jam nut per spec, or at least estimate the torque (I couldn't get my big torque wrench on it)

It has been tested over 100's of miles of wash board so far. Everything is working out fine.

 

[larryt]

Jam nut ended up flush with the bolt top for me too when it was all said and done. Interestingly, the passenger side bolt was just long enough to finger thread a bit before wrenching. Driver's side was where I had the trouble.

 

[Hayes]

Would you guys recommend replacing the double-nut arrangment with a single nylock nut?

I'll be installing these this weekend, and I'm thinking this situation is screaming for a nylock.

Jam nut ended up flush with the bolt top for me too when it was all said and done. Interestingly, the passenger side bolt was just long enough to finger thread a bit before wrenching. Driver's side was where I had the trouble.

 

[KraziAzn]

So I'm thinking of upgrading my front to ICON's stage 3, currently, I have an SPC Control Arms, OME T-Bars, TD foam shocks, I read it is recommended to have an uniball control arm. My question is, is SPC consider uniball? Does not look like it to me, but I don't know much. Also what am I giving up as far as performance if I mount Stage 3 with my SPC? less down travel?