Icon 4.6 degree caster correction bushings (1 Viewer)

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More proof that the icon bushings are crap
I tested SuperiorEngineering one and same result on one side after 500km of tracks. I even lose the nut of the front diff housing bolt, due to vibration (hopefully I had one in spare with me because I was in the middle of nowhere in the Alps (and almost lost de bolt).
All was well torqued and aligned following their provided pattern.

I mailed this issue to SE (because 500km is a very crappy lifetime), never had any feedback from them. I will go to DeltaVS radius arms now (because of product quality and customer service).
 
I can vouch for the ICON bushings being, not only crap for quality, but also falsely advertised at 4.6 degrees of correction. I put them on my truck with OME 850J's and 863's and it was a sh@t show on the road. I immediately pulled them off, replaced with OEM bushings and added plates.
 
I forgot to mention Icon gave me a refund for the amount the bushings cost. I purchased the entire kit from chi-town 4x4 but after everything was said and done and some litigation I was given refund for the bushings. They would not cover the labor cost I had someone to press in the bushings for me.

I don’t mind I yielded more then the advertised amount but they really should sell it for what it is. The truck is great now with the Delta VS arms.

Seems I’ve reposted my alignment numbers in a few threads by now and the consensus is…just get arms.
 
Just a random input here. When it comes to correcting caster, using bushings to do this, is a "band aid" at best. I know it's a cheaper way to regain some caster but in most cases, bushings don't have the longevity that one desires. Think about it, those caster correction bushings are under a constant pre-load by always resisting the twisting motion of the front radius arms.

I've been using a set of Slee caster plates for over a decade with various 3" and 4" suspension lifts and the caster they provide is superb. Additionally, i'm part time rear wd so that additional caster feels really good. Most part timers complain about the steering a tad on the "light" side so a decent amount of caster helps. One downside to correcting caster using plates is that you're making the front springs bow just a tad. This is because the caster plates are twisting the front axle in order to regain caster and this causes the springs to bow. During hard nose dive situations, the inside of the front spring bump stop does tend to scrape the inside of the front coil springs. This is about the only time I hear this contact sound.
This has been my experiance 100% bit using the land tank plates now. I first used the iron man blue adjustable bushings and the sucked. I then installed new OEM bushings and had land tank plates welded in while I was repairing a cracked axel housing. It is possible the the hard poly bushing contributed to cracking the axel housing. It cracked the the control arm mount off the housing during Cruise Moab.

All was good with the plates until I lifted it a little more then I started getting some rubbing on the spring/bumpstop surface on the driver side. But I think I have a bent bumpstop. The driver side bumpstop is off center a little and I did land the truck hard a few months ago. So I dont think the rubbing is not due to the plate. I think it is due to my Dukes of Hazard action.

Before the additional lift I was 21.75" fender to center of hubs all round. Land tank plates gave me 4 degree caster.
 

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