I'm working on my windshield frame right now and i have cut out the rust and welded in new pieces and everything is to bare metal.My question is do i apply the icing or bondo now or do i spray it first with self etching primer then icing?
Icing or primer? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wombat
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Waterproof it firstby using a product like, "kitty hair". Basically its fiberglass strands in a thick body of resin. Put this in the welded area to waterproof that joint, then after it dries, grind it removing alot of the product. Then use a body filler to make the final cosmetic repair!
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the reply.I am a rookie at body and paint and i want to make sure i do it right.I have never heard of waterproofing but i assume it goes into the little pockets of the weld to keep out moisture and future rust?
Correct, the fiberglass will waterproof the weld joint. Just preventative in case you have pin holes, then grind the fiberglass flush, then apply body filler to finish it off.
Duke
SILVER Star
sorry to disagree with the waterproofing/fiberglass/kitty hair thing. The kitty hair is not something that will hold up on the metal over the long run, specifically it will not rust proof it or waterproof it. I see this all the time on shoddy back yard repairs/shortcuts and end up fixing someone else's good intentions but bad prep. Not trying to make anyone feel bad, but it simply doesn't last.
You need to use a good quality self etching epoxy that will accept a bondo or kitty hair over it. That will protect it from rust. The kitty hair will not, neither will the fiberglass or resin.
Once the epoxy (2 component) is dry the styrene in the bondo will soften the epoxy enough to give you quality adhesion. Once your bondo has been sanded/prepped that would be the appropriate time for the icing to fill pin holes etc. (if needed)
If you want the best of both worlds prep the epoxy when dry with 180- 220 to "crack" the outer shell of the epoxy and give the bondo some tooth to hang onto. High quality automotive grade epoxy is pretty hard and self etching. Using a red scotchbrite is not enough to put a decent scratch in it. Then again if you're using rattle can epoxy you will have a much easier time sanding, but will give up some quality to the rustproofing. Rattle can epoxy may not even accept the bondo well. 2 component epoxy is the way to go to make it last. Using nothing but bondo or kitty hair will bring you back to where you starting with rust again much quicker than you think. The climate you're in will play a huge role in how long it lasts as well.
Good luck!!
You need to use a good quality self etching epoxy that will accept a bondo or kitty hair over it. That will protect it from rust. The kitty hair will not, neither will the fiberglass or resin.
Once the epoxy (2 component) is dry the styrene in the bondo will soften the epoxy enough to give you quality adhesion. Once your bondo has been sanded/prepped that would be the appropriate time for the icing to fill pin holes etc. (if needed)
If you want the best of both worlds prep the epoxy when dry with 180- 220 to "crack" the outer shell of the epoxy and give the bondo some tooth to hang onto. High quality automotive grade epoxy is pretty hard and self etching. Using a red scotchbrite is not enough to put a decent scratch in it. Then again if you're using rattle can epoxy you will have a much easier time sanding, but will give up some quality to the rustproofing. Rattle can epoxy may not even accept the bondo well. 2 component epoxy is the way to go to make it last. Using nothing but bondo or kitty hair will bring you back to where you starting with rust again much quicker than you think. The climate you're in will play a huge role in how long it lasts as well.
Good luck!!
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Read my painting 101 above and agree with Duke's comments
- Thread starter
- #7
Copaspupil- Ihave read your 101 about 5 times real good stuff ,thanks for doing that. Still waiting for step 5 -how to apply the paint. 
Anyone using "bondo" must be working in a backyard shack! No hard feelings, I see this mistake all the time! If you wanted "the best" I would not use "bondo"!!!! Far from "the best" filler that can be bought!!!!
- Thread starter
- #9
I use the word"bondo"as a generic term for any body filler. I use the good stuff from local body/paint supply store.
use sealer on metal then worry about the rest
Duke
SILVER Star
If it's just sealer and not some sort of self etching product you will experience rust and not have a lasting durable finish.
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- Thread starter
- #12
Primer color
Does the color of the primer affect the final paint job in any way.
I will be painting it freeborn red,should i be using a red primer?
Does the color of the primer affect the final paint job in any way.
I will be painting it freeborn red,should i be using a red primer?
yes you should
Just so I understand... If you are doing a whole body.. put down the 2 part primer on the whole body, then bondo? Or.. prime just the places that have been repaired (weld) then bondo then prime the entire body? I guess you could put two coats of primer?(Bondo used to refer to filler not brand name)
