I think my ECU is dying!!

[Lyz]

Does anyone know a trustworthy place to buy a reconditioned ECU for my 1991 fj80?

 

[slow95z]

If you mess with the afm do not remove the screws. You will ruin it

 

[Lyz]

If you mess with the afm do not remove the screws. You will ruin it

Got it… proceed with caution 😬

 

[Malleus]

You've already received one answer from one of the best parts sources, and lots of really good advice from some of the most knowledgeable people on this forum (which, IMHO, means anywhere), so why not take a minute and reread their comments?

To reiterate what's already been said, the stereo has a separate security system that's not integrated into the truck's security system, which whether it says Toyota or not, is an aftermarket install, possibly by a dealer but not necessarily so, but still a common source of electrical problems.

If you haven't tried to remove the AFM, assume it's OK for the moment, just keep in mind that it's not easily replaced but it is easily damaged beyond usefulness.

I doubt that there is anyone on this forum, or any other, who knows more about early 80 series electrical systems than @jonheld, ignore him at your own risk.

 

[BILT4ME]

I have started looking at that. I noticed a rally..of sorts in February.
Plan on going…ps girls ❤️ LC’s too.

Great!

Doesn't mean we're going to be any nicer.

Wasn't sure if that was pronounced "Liz" like Elizabeth or Lies like everyone lies about who they are.

 

[Lyz]

You've already received one answer from one of the best parts sources, and lots of really good advice from some of the most knowledgeable people on this forum (which, IMHO, means anywhere), so why not take a minute and reread their comments?

To reiterate what's already been said, the stereo has a separate security system that's not integrated into the truck's security system, which whether it says Toyota or not, is an aftermarket install, possibly by a dealer but not necessarily so, but still a common source of electrical problems.

If you haven't tried to remove the AFM, assume it's OK for the moment, just keep in mind that it's not easily replaced but it is easily damaged beyond usefulness.

I doubt that there is anyone on this forum, or any other, who knows more about early 80 series electrical systems than @jonheld, ignore him at your own risk.

Who says I’m ignoring him? I know who Jon is to this forum,and look forward to his input.I have achieved many diy projects following his advice….and others. I read and reread every reply. Im not exactly new here. I take all advice to heart, even yours…..

 

[Lyz]

Great!

Doesn't mean we're going to be any nicer.

Wasn't sure if that was pronounced "Liz" like Elizabeth or Lies like everyone lies about who they are.

Wow! WTF there’s nothing wrong with being nice. You should try it. I noticed your name is not exactly biblical. Sincerely Elizabeth

 

[Lyz]

 

[Lyz]

Yeah but…someone has been under there ( driver kick panel) cutting wires. It’s obvious they did some minimal removal of the system.

Found the details about the LC club. I used to belong to a Covair club many years ago. I’d forgotten how really helpful they can be. Thanx

 

[Lyz]

You also have the Austin chapter of the Lone Star Cruisers you could turn to for assistance.

TX- Lone Star Land Cruisers - Austin Chapter

forum.ih8mud.com

Collected info. Going to the next meeting.

 

[Lyz]

A few things jump out at me.
Your transmission is 100% hydraulic with no electronic control, so the ECU has nothing to do with rough shifting. Harsh shifts are likely a misadjusted throttle cable (kickdown cable).
A poorly installed aftermarket alarm/immobilizer should be completely removed to eliminate that as the issue.
This all seems to be too intermittent to be an ECU failure IMO. More than likely there is faulty wiring somewhere in the ECU signal path.
As I'm sure you know, no CEL with the key in the ON/RUN position before you crank the starter means the ECU is not in a ready state and this engine will not run. If someone removed the 2 Phillips screws on the side of the AFM housing and tried to remove the connector, the AFM wiring is now torn internally.
There is a thin spring clip on the connector that you push up to remove the connector from the AFM without damage.
This is 1st generation EFI on a tractor motor. 1986 technology.

The “what

Collected info. Going to the next meeting.

By the way the “Whatda mean?” post was not meant for you. I just put it in the wrong place. Caught some flac. Sorry

 

[jonheld]

Some random musings regarding the lack of a CEL with the key in the on/RUN position before cranking the starter.
1. Internally damaged AFM caused by removing the 2 Phillips screws on the side of the connector housing.
2. An interruption of the IGN signal to the ECU from the 7.5 amp IGN fuse/ignition switch/ECU.
3. An interruption of the main EFI relay logic and/or load through connector EB1 in the engine bay.

#1 can be diagnosed by simply removing the AFM connector by lifting the thin spring clip on the housing. If the CEL illuminates with the AFM connector removed and does not with the AFM connected, then the issue is with the AFM.

#2 is common for a vehicle immobilizer or any aftermarket product that requires a ignition (key ON) signal.

#3 Your connectors are now 30 years old. Anytime they are touched, you run the risk of an intermittent showing up.

 

[Lyz]

Some random musings regarding the lack of a CEL with the key in the on/RUN position before cranking the starter.
1. Internally damaged AFM caused by removing the 2 Phillips screws on the side of the connector housing.
2. An interruption of the IGN signal to the ECU from the 7.5 amp IGN fuse/ignition switch/ECU.
3. An interruption of the main EFI relay logic and/or load through connector EB1 in the engine bay.

#1 can be diagnosed by simply removing the AFM connector by lifting the thin spring clip on the housing. If the CEL illuminates with the AFM connector removed and does not with the AFM connected, then the issue is with the AFM.

#2 is common for a vehicle immobilizer or any aftermarket product that requires a ignition (key ON) signal.

#3 Your connectors are now 30 years old. Anytime they are touched, you run the risk of an intermittent showing up.

Random musings have been helpful in that it’s prompted me to study my wiring diagrams closer. At the moment I’m getting a CEL. If I’m understanding you right , in order to check the AFM, I’ll have to wait for the dead zone to reappear. My plan is to first have the security system removed completely and then check my ignition switch system for continuity. Which makes a lot of sense. Thank you for your advice.

I looked up the LSLC.Land Cruisers and BBQ. 🤠